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Corks for Conn 36A Concert Grand cornet



 
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delano
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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 2:31 am    Post subject: Corks for Conn 36A Concert Grand cornet Reply with quote

Hello, I need new corks for this cornet. In Holland I should not know where to purchase them. Anybody an idea in the states?
I know The Bandroom has similar rebuildingsets for some of the vintage Conn trumpets. Are that the same corks?
Or maybe Metzler?
Greetings from Holland, delano
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A.N.A.Mendez
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do they look like? How thick? Are they dome topped?
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ConnArtist
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If all else fails...

wine, saw, drill, sandpaper, and patience will fix it.
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lipshurt
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the ones from the bandroom are raw long chunks of cork with the correct hole drilled through them. You need to cut them to the right length, (about 1.5CM) and then add felt or some other washers to get the alignment marks to be even with the top caps. Those marks are ver close to exactly right by the way.

The hard part is cutting them off exactly straight!

You can do it though

DOug M
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Greenleaf
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

frisco has 'em on eBay

If you don't have an eBay account you can contact him at [email protected]
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ConnArtist
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lipshurt wrote:
The hard part is cutting them off exactly straight!


That's why I suspect some corks are conical, and some have a notch cut in one end at an angle. Perfectly parallel becomes less important when there is less surface area.

If you have a back-saw with a saw box, or a band-saw with a guide, it is a "piece of cake" (or "very easy" for those who don't speak American English.
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lipshurt
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You won't get a clean cut with a saw. The curl is too Sticky. You need a blade. The angled portion is just that you can see the number of the valve which is stamped right there.

I forgot to mention that you have to cut the vertical groove for the guide pin! It can be v shaped. All of your felts and washers need to have that groove also and be glued in place. Unless you are using o-rings.

Cone shaped corks are for a Later

generation of conn

doug m
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study888
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 8:54 pm    Post subject: Corks for Conn 36A Concert Grand Cornet Reply with quote

Hello delano. You can buy that Kit from Bandroom1. Call or e-mail them. The corks may be already at the right length. I had a 1942 mint condition two toned Silver Plated Conn 36A. Had to sell it due to some financial reasons. A Jazz player in Washinton State bought it. On day He recieved the Cornet. Took it that same night, played it in a local gig. Next day sent me a long e-mail on how much he liked the way this Cornet played. The Conn 36A cornet,(IMHO) is one of the best playing Horns ever made by Conn. These Cornets can play in any type venue and hold their own. They are not a large bore King Master Cornet. Just made on the same Reynolds design. I have a 1947 King Master cornet,which is a fine Cornet. Back to the Corks. Those others by Frisco,look fine. But you really need to let a good Music Tech. cut the corks, install the felts, and hopefully some nice soft action bottom springs. Proper valve alighnment is very important on the 36A. I believe there is some info. about the cork lengths on the Conn Loyalist site. If you are having any problems with mouthpieces fitting it. The long shank and the short shank Stork Vacchiano V cup will fit the m.p. receiver just fine. The C and B cup depth V cups play well. The #27 or #26 Throats give a good balance to its .468 bore. These are very free and open blowing Cornets. The Stork m.p.'s play well in tune with the Conn 36A. Hope this info. was helpful. Good luck
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Greenleaf
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lipshurt wrote:
The angled portion is just that you can see the number of the valve which is stamped right there. doug m


Doug, That angle cut is there so as not to cover the vent hole in the top of the valve which, if covered, slows its performance.

delano, I believe somewhere on the Conn Loyalist site there is a list of cork heights by model #.

Yeah, here it is . . .

http://www.xs4all.nl/~cderksen/ConnArticle36.html


PS The cheapest place to get these is Ferees.
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lipshurt
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The valve chamber is vented at the bottom. There is a hole in the bottom valve cap.

Doug m
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Greenleaf
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lipshurt wrote:
The valve chamber is vented at the bottom. There is a hole in the bottom valve cap. Doug m


Top and bottom. Flow through. Otherwise it's like an inverted glass in water. I think that's the idea anyway . Actually, CONN covered all their Director valve #'s with the corks and felts which makes identifying them a bit more of a process than it should be.

Do you actually glue your corks in place? There is a ribbed section on the stem to keep them from moving, I guess at least until the cork dries out and shinks. I've never actually seen them glued, but I guess that would keep them from turning and rubbing against the guide.
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study888
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 6:57 pm    Post subject: Corks for Conn 36A Concert Grand cornet Reply with quote

Hello Greenleaf. You do not have to glue corks in place. Make sure after cutting cork. You have it lined up right. Once you push it down. Those grooves on the bottom of the stem shaft cut into cork and hold it in place. If you were to twirl it around. Those grooves will start reaming out the inside of the cork possibly ruining it. After you get the cork in it's proper place. Then you can gently notch out the back of cork. So it will vent correctly. Still better to let a compentent Music Tech handle this. You may go through some Corks and you still have to get the felts right. Other than finding modern mouthpieces, to fit these vintage Cornets. This is the only other draw back. The weird way the valve guides are made and the Cork/Felt set up. Wish Conn could have went with upper spring valve action, triple brass valve guides like the King Master Cornet. Or the double brass valve guides and upper/outer spring action like the Olds L.A. Horns. Would have been nice to offer a .433 bore along with the .468 bore. for us weaker lung fellows. Reynolds was threating to sue for copying his Cornet wrap style etc. and am sure Olds and King would have done the same about their valve designs. So in the end they dropped this line and started heading in the direction of the Conn Connstellation models. Have owned and played a nice 1961 37A Conn Constellation cornet. Very good playing cornet,but liked the Conn 36A,Reynolds Argenta and the King Master much better. Hard to beat that comfortable hand/horn balance, excellent intonation and Brass work design of Mr. Reynolds.
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lipshurt
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you dont have to glue the corks in place. They will grip the roughed up surface of the stem. But you should glue the felts on top of the corks. Otherwise the notch in the felt/washers can shift and rub on the pin. This will happen, and you can feel it slow the valve down. The cork does not need the bevel if you dont need to see the number under the cork. The synthetic corks with the formed groove does not have the bevel, and those work pretty good. I had to shave those down to get a "standard" bach felt to work. Then I switched to o-rings which i like better.

then I sold the 36a, but if I get another cornet, it will be a 36a. Those are about the best ever.

Doug m
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Greenleaf
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lipshurt wrote:
. . . you should glue the felts on top of the corks. Otherwise the notch in the felt/washers can shift and rub on the pin . . . Then I switched to o-rings which I like better. Doug m

Ah! I see what you mean. How do the O rings work? Are they in place of felts?
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delano
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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am curious too, I know nothing about o-rings instead of felts.
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delano
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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everybody for the tremendous replies. I see that it is a work of great precision. If this problem occurs all the time I have to learn to fix that but I believe new corks will last a very long time so I am looking for a technician here in Holland to fix this incidently problem, I presume, for a long time.
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