Best Supplies for Trumpet Maintenance

Anthony Barrington

Hey community. I was wondering if any of you guys have a list of your slide and valve oils, tuning slide grease and what not? What's your favorite product so far as trumpet maintenance goes? I've been searching for the right stuff to keep my horn in shipshape. Thanks.
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Christian K. Peters · Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 8:01 pm Post subject: Best supplies

Hello and welcome,
I use Ultra Pure on all my Schilkes and horns that have new, re-fitted valves. I also use their light slide grease. They are an Oregon product and I like to keep it local. Schilke slide grease and Al Cass for the older horns. I use a leadpipe swab after every use on my trumpets..Or try to. I flush my horns every couple of weeks and do a thorough home cleaning every few months. I try to have the horns go through the shop for ultra-sonic cleaning every couple of years. They recommend once a year to keep the red rot away. I see too many horns neglected and waste away. You need to take care of horns that you pay good money for.
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Christian K. Peters
Schilke Loyalist since 1976

trpthrld · Heavyweight Member Joined: 09 Mar 2007 Posts: 4806

zaferis · Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 4:31 am Post subject:

I like that Ultra-Pure has a complete line of products - oils, greases, lubes and swabs/cloth.. A variety of viscosities and I appreciate the non-toxic element.

Other companies offer a variety of lubes: Hetman and Monster Oil to name a couple.

I also like Herco Spit Balls to extend the time between cleanings

More importantly, not necessarily what you use, but your habits in using lubes frequently and keeping the instrument clean.
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dstdenis

Geodude · Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 4:59 am Post subject:

Welcome to TH. You've received good info already and if you use the search function you will discover that there are almost as many "which valve oil" threads as there are "my trumpet is best" and " will this mouthpiece give me a double high C without practicing" threads.

Mr. Wendt's leadpipe swabs have a very loyal following and there are plenty of lubes out there that work well. Sometimes you will need to experiment a little to find something that works well with your specific body chemistry and horn. Worn valves frequently do better with thicker oil and tight clearance valves usually are happier with one of the thinner oils. Remember to clean your horn before switching oils to avoid compatibility issues.

I think the real key is to commit to regular maintenance. Oil is really pretty cheap and a clean horn only costs you a little time once you acquire a brush (try Brass Saver) or one of the Reka foam gizmos and and some dish soap.

furcifer · Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 2:12 pm Post subject:

Alisyn oil is not the "fastest" feeling stuff, but it's fast enough. I have some 12 horns with valves and lot of them just sit in the case and rarely get played. No other oil lasts as long on the valves. Alisyn is synthetic and has about twice the viscosity of other oils. It's serviceable at temperature ranges from -80 ºF to 400 ºF, and I play outdoor settings a lot, so it's nice that it doesn't freeze or evaporate in extreme cold or heat. You use FAR less, because you don't use it as a "flush" to rinse particles to the bottom of the valve case. You don't need to, because it hardly ever happens. I like only having to oil about once a week instead of EVERY time I play and then some. One little 2oz bottle - half the size of most oil bottles - can last me well over a year with 3 main horns I play. That's 9 valves. How long would that last cats only playing one or two horns?

One other thing - you can actually find the specs for Alisyn and request an MSDS for it. Most valve oil companies don't even release an MSDS form, much less tell you what's REALLY in the stuff. You can't find anything about boiling point/freeze point or even a "recommended" SERVICEABLE TEMPERATURE RANGE for MOST of these oils!!! The fact of the matter is that most of these companies do not want to submit to an objective scientific comparison... You can find all kinds of research on motor oils and even more MSDS specs on other niche products like gun oils, but almost NOTHING on trumpet valve oils - except for Alisyn.

(I think Monster Oil is probably the closest in terms of research and a verifiable vested interest in making a top quality product in a niche market, but they still don't release an MSDS or divulge actual specs. I'd put Hetman's in 3rd for at least putting out similar viscosity CHOICES - So with Monster or Hetman's, you can run their lighter stuff on the cornet you want to play Carnival on, if you wish, and still run thicker stuff on your outdoor lead ax or the flugel that only gets taken out of the case twice a month.)

Synthetic slide grease with a synthetic oil is usually recommended, however, I've actually always used lanolin on my slides, and had no conflicts with Alisyn oil. I got a tiny little apothecary jar of lanolin given to me by a pharmacist over 30 years ago and I still haven't used half of it.

For silver plate, I use Tarni-Shield and sometimes Weiman's Silver Wipes for a quick cleanup and rinse when I'm not going to take the horn apart. (I have a trigger, so it's more involved than just pulling slides)

For my chrome-plated Getzen bugles, I use Windex, LOL! And a microfiber towel. You can get microfiber towels in bulk for a buck or two at an auto parts store.

Otherwise, you need a snake and a mouthpiece brush. A valve brush is probably nice, but I've gotten by without one for decades. Nothing has ever been in my valve cases except valves, oil and my own fingers.

My horns don't get all crapped up, primarily because I usually refrain from eating when I play, and I brush my teeth before I play. I do a lot of physically-demanding lead work, so it's like swimming or running a mile - I wouldn't want to do any of that right after I eat. There's also research that indicates people are mentally and physically "slower" right after they eat. There's a point of diminishing returns, of course. Starving is also pretty distracting, but unfortunately, I've had a lot more practice with that, LOL
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maj45 · Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 2:48 pm Post subject:

I ran across H.W. Brass Cleaning brushes a few years ago and they beat the tar out of the old wire snakes!
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razeontherock

razeontherock · Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 4:42 pm Post subject:

Grits Burgh · Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 6:08 am Post subject:

I'd never have known about "The Best Damn Trumpet Lead Pipe Swab Period!" if it were not for Trumpet Herald. I bought one and, well, it really is what it says it is. I think I'll buy some more.

www.trumpetherald.com/marketplace.php?task=detail&id=94777&s=The-Best-Damn-Trumpet-Lead-Pipe-Swab-Period-

I've tried several different valve oils and they all work for me, except for Blue Juice which has a nasty smell (and clear is better than blue). I haven't tried Monster Oil. They said that they were going to send me a freebie to try, but that never happened. Maybe after I use up the four bottles that I have (Blue Juice, 5 Star, Ultrapure and Al Cass), I'll get around to trying Monster Oil.

Someone posted that that natural petroleum products don't stain clothing and textiles as badly as synthetic oils. I plan on testing that theory. If true, that is a consideration.

Regards,
Grits
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trickg · Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 7:31 am Post subject:

Everyone is going to have their own preferences for what they use based on different factors.

Regarding snakes and brushes, I typically just use whatever I can get my hands on, although I don't like uncoated snake cables - it has to have a vinyl coating on it. Otherwise it seems to me that one mouthpiece brush is as good as the next.

Right now I'm using Hetman lubricants, and not necessarily because I think they are in any way superior to anything else, but because I get them for free - it's issued at my National Guard Band.

With that said, I like the different viscosity choices for valve oil, and I also like the thin slide grease/oil I use on my 1st and 3rd slides.

As for tuning slide grease, I actually prefer Schilke, but Hetman makes a very similar grease that is almost as good - it seems to be a bit thicker, and it lasts a bit longer.

I got a tip the other day though at a repair shop - the tech told me that Bach red tuning slide grease is the same thing as Lucas Red-N-Tacky #2 that you can get in any auto parts store. You can get a 16 oz tub for $5.
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GeorgeB · Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 8:20 am Post subject:

Like Patrick, I use Hetman light piston lubricant for valves on my newer horns and Classic for my vintage Selmer. I also use the Hetman tuning slide grease. I don't use them because they are the best, I don't know if they are, I just like them. Everyone has an opinion on what they use.
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1jazzyalex · Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 3:43 pm Post subject:

I'm another proud owner of the best "darned" pull through and it's a neat little piece of kit. It's not something you couldn't make yourself, but it's so nicely made and at such a modest price that it's easiest to just send off for one. Just remove your tuning slide and run it through when you're done playing.

Also when I oil my valves every time I play, I put a drop or two of oil into the mouthpiece receiver, with the idea that it will get down the leadpipe and into that first curve and be "friendlier" with the metal than whatever evils are in my spit are.
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Monster Oil · Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 4:33 pm Post subject:

Craig Swartz · Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 6:11 pm Post subject:

I use Hetman #1 on the newer horns, Hetman #2 on the older ones, Hetman 11 on the rotors, Schilke slide grease. I have an old Schilke leadpipe brush I bought at his shop probably 40 years ago that I'll run through the pipe, also usually blast a 5/8" cube of wet sponge through the entire horn from the bell with all 3 valves held down and all slides secured to keep them from becoming unguided missiles. When I do clean the piston casings I use a 12 gage Tico Tool and Dawn detergent. No probs. Oh, and I suppose the mouthpiece brush is Herco or something I stole from one of my schools backwhen I was teaching. (The worst thing about retiring has been that I now have to buy my own valve oil...)