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Stuck valve caps


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LittleRusty
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Joined: 11 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2005 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BadDoctor has a good point. Experiment on another horn.
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Jkg722
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Joined: 22 Oct 2004
Posts: 232

PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2005 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i guess ill have to leave them on there till i get to a repair shop. i thought of trying some things out, but i would rather not have to face a nightmarish consequence. thanks for the input
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AZcoolhorn
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Joined: 05 Apr 2005
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Location: Scottsdale, Arizona

PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2005 12:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have owned Schilkes for years, and from time to time the top and/or bottom valve caps will get stuck. The best trick I have found (outside of just taking it to a pro repair shop) is to use a spark plug wrench. Many of them have two different size hex openings on either end, and one of them is usually the perfect size. In order to avoid any damage to the finish, I simply put a very thin cloth over the cap, then the spark plug wrench over it...which makes for a very snug and secure fit. It usually works on the first couple attempts, and without too much effort either. One of my teachers was also a huge Schilke proponent and gave me the tip...
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Solar Bell
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Joined: 21 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2005 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And always put them back on with a torque wrench!
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AZcoolhorn
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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2005 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


Yeah, Schilke B6...I almost spit my lunch out!

I am serious about the tip though...
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plankowner110
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Joined: 12 Jun 2003
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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2005 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After I check the pistons in my Schilke and tighten the caps with my spark plug wrench, I always run Bardahl through the horn to keep it running clean!

http://www.bardahl.com/automotive/engine/engine.htm
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Jkg722
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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2005 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hahahaha
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old geezer
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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2005 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If and when you get your cap off - always put a drop of valve oil on the threads before putting cap back on FINGER TIGHT. a little trick a very good repairman showed me. old geezer Dave
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mulligan stew
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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2005 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always use Hetman slide oil (one of the light ones) on cap threads...
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Tootsall
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Joined: 05 May 2002
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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2005 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I scared myself once when I overtightened ONE of the caps on my B1. I finally used a rubber-coated gardener's glove to get it off. (Good grip, non-marking, and you can't put so much torque on with just your finger strength that would distort the valve block/cylinder).

I make dang sure to NEVER overtighten them now... just tight enough so that they are "rattle-free" snug.
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Lazarus
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Joined: 11 Nov 2001
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Location: Arizona

PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2005 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take the advice from above- don't use pliers or vises by any means. The potential damage that you could cause to your casings is something that should not be taken lightly. I apprenticed in a repairshop for 3 years with two master techs, and we would free up any stuck valve caps free of charge to customers. Reputable shops will use a raw-hide mallet of sorts to do this. We used a balanced striking technique to remove the caps without damaging the horn. A good tech should be able to do this while you are there in a matter of minutes so long as there is no threading or rust damage causing the cap to me stuck. Hope this helps- this was something I dealt with everyday while I worked there.
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