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Red Rot in Your Horns?


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How many of you experience the following:
Red Rot
15%
 15%  [ 11 ]
Finish Corrosion
25%
 25%  [ 18 ]
Both
29%
 29%  [ 21 ]
Neither
29%
 29%  [ 21 ]
Total Votes : 71

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razeontherock
Heavyweight Member


Joined: 05 Jun 2004
Posts: 10609
Location: The land of GR and Getzen

PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yourbrass wrote:
Microblitz wrote:
Now red rot I something I have been thinking about.

When pipes crack here, the engineers fill the pipe under Pressure with a resin plastic which is forces into the cracks sealing then and bonding the material together. The plastic is like the gel coat you use for glass reinforced plastic.

Now im betting a similar process could be developed for repairing red rot holes instruments. All it takes is figuring out how to pressurise the tube and how to ensure that the right amount of gel is distributed. You want it to block the holes not coat the inside of the lead pipe.

There's the concept now get in the garage and figure out how to make it simple and cheap to do. And if you make any money out of the idea, I have a martin committee fund available.

Another Wacky© Idea from ...


I like the idea, but I don't think it will "stick, " so to speak, to the pipe.
The fatigued area can be cleaned, or patched on the outside if it's really bad, but nothing will stick to it, including plating, if it's a big enough area.
It's a rough copper spot, essentially.


I've done a lot of various repairs to boats and other things that stay immersed, in some pretty caustic solutions. I think there are 2 problems:

1. By the time I brew up something that will stick, (and they do exist) how do you keep it from changing the shape of the interior of the mouthpipe? You're talking about incredibly tough stuff, that is not at all easy to work with. I don't see this as being a viable option. (But if anybody can come with such a process, it'd be worth more than a few Committees!)

2. It's not brass. Non metal dampening materials can be used on the exterior, not only w/o problem, but to actual good effect. I'm not sure that can be side of the interior surface of the air column?
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plp
Heavyweight Member


Joined: 11 Feb 2003
Posts: 7023
Location: South Alabama

PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

razeontherock wrote:
yourbrass wrote:
Microblitz wrote:
Now red rot I something I have been thinking about.

When pipes crack here, the engineers fill the pipe under Pressure with a resin plastic which is forces into the cracks sealing then and bonding the material together. The plastic is like the gel coat you use for glass reinforced plastic.

Now im betting a similar process could be developed for repairing red rot holes instruments. All it takes is figuring out how to pressurise the tube and how to ensure that the right amount of gel is distributed. You want it to block the holes not coat the inside of the lead pipe.

There's the concept now get in the garage and figure out how to make it simple and cheap to do. And if you make any money out of the idea, I have a martin committee fund available.

Another Wacky© Idea from ...


I like the idea, but I don't think it will "stick, " so to speak, to the pipe.
The fatigued area can be cleaned, or patched on the outside if it's really bad, but nothing will stick to it, including plating, if it's a big enough area.
It's a rough copper spot, essentially.


I've done a lot of various repairs to boats and other things that stay immersed, in some pretty caustic solutions. I think there are 2 problems:

1. By the time I brew up something that will stick, (and they do exist) how do you keep it from changing the shape of the interior of the mouthpipe? You're talking about incredibly tough stuff, that is not at all easy to work with. I don't see this as being a viable option. (But if anybody can come with such a process, it'd be worth more than a few Committees!)

2. It's not brass. Non metal dampening materials can be used on the exterior, not only w/o problem, but to actual good effect. I'm not sure that can be side of the interior surface of the air column?


With CNC technology, it might be easier than you think. Scan the interior, use whatever medium that works, then bore it back out using the original scan as template, correcting for the voids in the boring template.

The trick is what medium to use. I'm thinking a polymer ceramic, as the resonance would be similar to brass but could be applied without heat, and would also tolerate the temps generated in the boring process.
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Since all other motives—fame, money, power, even honor—are thrown out the window the moment I pick up that instrument..... I play because I love doing it, even when the results are disappointing. In short, I do it to do it.” Wayne Booth
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