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best slide lube/grease?


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Bruin
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 8:30 pm    Post subject: best slide lube/grease? Reply with quote

Well, we've bantered back and forth about the valve oils that you all are partial to, but I can't find any posts (within a reasonable search time) about your preferred slide lube/grease.

I've only used 2 so far. Both are okay, but I would like them to last longer and without any nasty build-up that can collect in my tuning and other slides.

Suggestions?
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BedfordTrumpeter
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be honest, I've never given this much thought. I always just used whatever the music shop guys handed me. Or whatever I could borrow from the guy in the next chair.

These days, it's Superslick. I think it always has been. After all, it's the "World's Favorite". Says so right on the bucket.

Paul
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Mark Curry
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

anhydrous lanolin, without a doubt.

melt it on (using whatever to heat up the tube), thin it to the desired consistency with valve oil (any). Wipe off any residual...you need only a small amount of this to work.

Lasts forever.

If your horn dries out from being in a hot car (or any other reason), just put a drop of oil on the tubes and it rehydrates like magic.

Sheep fat- whouda thought?

MC
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mikeman7
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the Schilke lube! i think they may use lanolin in theirs........
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Bruin
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fascinating ....

"Lanolin comes from the oil glands of sheep and is removed from their hair after they are sheared. It is a sticky, waxy substance with a brownish color. Lanolin acts as a fantastic barrier to protect the skin from harsh environmental conditions. Many people are allergic to lanolin so use with caution if you are uncertain of potential allergies to this ingredient.

The lanolin called for by recipes at this site is called "anhydrous" lanolin. This means it is pure lanolin without water added (as it sometimes is by companies that sell it in tubes). Be sure to use anhydrous lanolin. It can be ordered online and is available at most pharmacies."

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holeypants
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

STP oil treatment.
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trpthrld
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SpaceFiller.

Easy to apply, spreads evenly, dilutes easily (if ya want it to), last a LONG time.

The first bottle I bought lasted me 5 years. Granted I had only one trumpet at that time, but it does have great staying power.
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MalinTrumpet
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 12:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruin wrote:
.


The lanolin called for by recipes at this site is called "anhydrous" lanolin. This means it is pure lanolin without water added (as it sometimes is by companies that sell it in tubes). Be sure to use anhydrous lanolin. It can be ordered online and is available at most pharmacies."[/i]


I've checked with all the pharmacies in my neighborhood (the Upper West Side). None of them carry it. Those of you who have been to Manhattan know there are about 3 Duane Reeds, CVS and Rite Aids per block. One pharmacist told me he hadn't seen it in years but would try to order it for me. I know I can get it on line but would rather get it in person.

LCM
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etc-etc
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

100% Pure Australian Anhydrous Lanolin Pharmaceutical Grade 2 oz. for $9.50+$3.95 shipping from Amazon.com:

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HornBill
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recently bought a large jar of anhydrous lanolin from a local natural food and vitamins store. You might check there. I only paid about $5.00 for about 4oz. I mixed it with a little vaseline and it's the best slide lube i've ever used. Good luck. Bill
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mike ansberry
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

holeypants wrote:
STP oil treatment.


Amen. I use it on all my personal horns, and all of them at the middle school where I teach. It never dries out. I mix some with oil until it has a pancake batter like consistency for the kicker slides on my trumpet. Best stuff I've ever used.
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Biber
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Selmer. Nice and sticky and cuts well with valve oil.

b
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Bruin
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mike ansberry wrote:
holeypants wrote:
STP oil treatment.


Amen. I use it on all my personal horns, and all of them at the middle school where I teach. It never dries out. I mix some with oil until it has a pancake batter like consistency for the kicker slides on my trumpet. Best stuff I've ever used.


And here I thought you guys were just kidding! Mike, when you mix the STP oil treatment with OIL, what kind of oil are you referring to? Motor oil or valve oil?

I think I'm going with the lanolin/valve oil (for me Berp Bio Oil) solution for now. Seems a little safer? It's natural anyways.

Thanks everybody.
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cheiden
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anhydrous lanolin can be bought at most all baby product supply stores. It's marketed as nipple cream for new mothers. The brands I'm most familiar with are Lansinoh and Medela but there are many others. Never fails to raise eyebrows when people see it in your case. Works great on the main tuning slide. For the moving 1st and 3rd slides I go with Bach rotor oil.
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BedfordTrumpeter
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheiden wrote:
It's marketed as nipple cream for new mothers.




So now my trumpet won't just go flat when its cold...
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Biber
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheiden wrote:
Anhydrous lanolin can be bought at most all baby product supply stores. It's marketed as nipple cream for new mothers.


Yes that's great stuff too. very thick and akin to vasoline.


B
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tom turner
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's what I use . . . also a high grade lanolin product:



You don't have to melt this product on, and it has the proper thickness. As Mark said, you cut it with a tad of valve oil to get the right consistency and to revive the product later.

A two-ounce tube lasts forever. I've got all eight tuning slides for my Wild Thing trumpet, so it is nice to have a product that stays "clean" and works as this does.

It is also great on my three-piece custom Warburton rims, threaded cups and bacbores to keep 'em from ever sticking together! I picked up a tube from Rich Ita about seven years ago while visiting his shop. Great stuff.

YOU CAN ORDER IT FROM THE COMPANY ONLINE, HERE, for $6.95:

http://store.flexbar.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD_MT&Store_Code=FLX&Product_Code=11152&Category_Code=MT-Lano-Lube

There's simply no excuse not to have a quality lanolin lube on your expensive, yet soft metal slides!!!

And here's their description of the product:

LANO-LUBE
Multi-Purpose Pure Lanolin AAA Quality, U.S.P.

MOISTURE FREE • STOPS RUST • ALWAYS CLEAN
NO ODOR • ANTI-SEIZE PROPERTIES • MADE IN U.S.A.

USES INCLUDE:
INSPECTION • GAGING • DRILLING CENTERS • TURNING • TAPPING

LANO-LUBE protects valuable gage libraries better than any other coating. It is also an excellent lubricant, making gage entry easy. The coating is dimensionally minuscule so that gaging accuracy is never sacrificed.

SIMPLE TO USE: Coat the gage or component completely, then wipe off the excess using a soft cloth. No matter how hard you wipe, a thin monolithic coating will still cling to the surface resulting in an invisible and impenetrable shield against moisture and against acid from the fingers of the technician's hands.

MANY USES OF LANO-LUBE INCLUDE:

1. Coating gages and gaging accessories: gage blocks, plug gages, thread gages, ring gages, thread rings, vee blocks, sine bars, etc. Important! When gaging holes in soft metals such as aluminum or brass, LANO-LUBE will prevent gouging of inside surfaces.
2. Coating of "manufactured components", especially heat-treated parts which often times rust easily.
3. Machining: tapping of metals, tapping of plastics, drilling centers, machining of plastics.
4. Instruments in coolant environment: e.g. coating of shank and spindle of dial indicators and similar instrument. Coolant splashes will not penetrate the LANOLIN shield.
5. Anti-seize properties: a lubricant for lead screws, ball screws, slides on positioners and micro-manipulators, plastic and metal gears.
6. Release agent for moulds, die cavities and the like.
7. Use to protect lead screw on micrometer.

Model No. 11152, Lano-Lube, 2 oz. tube.
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MalinTrumpet
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MalinTrumpet wrote:
Bruin wrote:
.


The lanolin called for by recipes at this site is called "anhydrous" lanolin. This means it is pure lanolin without water added (as it sometimes is by companies that sell it in tubes). Be sure to use anhydrous lanolin. It can be ordered online and is available at most pharmacies."[/i]


I've checked with all the pharmacies in my neighborhood (the Upper West Side). None of them carry it. Those of you who have been to Manhattan know there are about 3 Duane Reeds, CVS and Rite Aids per block. One pharmacist told me he hadn't seen it in years but would try to order it for me. I know I can get it on line but would rather get it in person.

LCM


Well, the pharmacy told me it would order it but would cost about $27.00 a jar. I found it on line for $7.00 from a company in North Carolina.

LCM
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n4435rc
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2009 9:26 am    Post subject: Slide grease Reply with quote

I use Shilke grease, it has lanolin. I think lanolin is the best corrosion preventative you can buy. It has a good consistancy for me. I play about 1.5 hours per day and I renew it weekly. I oil my valves with a blue juice mixture of 90% blue juice and 10% 3-in-one oil daily or everyother day. Weekly I also blow a Herco spitball through with a few extra drops of herco liquid dripped in before blowing with all valves down. Do this twice, then drain all liquid in trumpet. Then squeeze the spitball dry and blow through twice more with a few drops of straight blue juice in it.
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Dale Proctor
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2009 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Biber wrote:
Selmer. Nice and sticky and cuts well with valve oil.

Same here.
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