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how to cleen Schilke's valves.



 
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vandenplass
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 11:48 am    Post subject: how to cleen Schilke's valves. Reply with quote

I owned 2 trumpets from Schilke (B3 and E3L). I returned the B3 to Shilke's concernond sticky valves. They done a grest job. After monts of playing, the problems begin again. I leave the trumpet at a repair shop 4 times. And again the problem occured. I tried lots of receipes from the web with no satisfaction.

Two weeks ago, i tried Vim. A creamy stuff containing pumice stone. Now the valves never lay at the middle or ¾. i am very happy with the result.
No problem with my Vincent Bach Stradivarius.

Hope it will help you.
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VetPsychWars
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 12:00 pm    Post subject: Re: how to cleen Schilke's valves. Reply with quote

vandenplass wrote:
I owned 2 trumpets from Schilke (B3 and E3L). I returned the B3 to Shilke's concernond sticky valves. They done a grest job. After monts of playing, the problems begin again. I leave the trumpet at a repair shop 4 times. And again the problem occured. I tried lots of receipes from the web with no satisfaction.

Two weeks ago, i tried Vim. A creamy stuff containing pumice stone. Now the valves never lay at the middle or ¾. i am very happy with the result.
No problem with my Vincent Bach Stradivarius.

Hope it will help you.


Hope you don't mind replating those valves every few years.

Tom
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etc-etc
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perhaps you might entertain to change the title of the thread to "How NOT to clean Schilke valves".

Was it a demo horn? Were you the first user of the horn? If someone else broke in the valves, you might have had issues because the way you press the valves would not be the same.

Unless you like your Schilke horns with loose tolerances, I would stay away from pumice.
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Crazy Finn
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 4:32 pm    Post subject: Re: how to cleen Schilke's valves. Reply with quote

VetPsychWars wrote:
vandenplass wrote:
I owned 2 trumpets from Schilke (B3 and E3L). I returned the B3 to Shilke's concernond sticky valves. They done a grest job. After monts of playing, the problems begin again. I leave the trumpet at a repair shop 4 times. And again the problem occured. I tried lots of receipes from the web with no satisfaction.

Two weeks ago, i tried Vim. A creamy stuff containing pumice stone. Now the valves never lay at the middle or ¾. i am very happy with the result.
No problem with my Vincent Bach Stradivarius.

Hope it will help you.


Hope you don't mind replating those valves every few years.

Tom

What's $800 every three or four years anyway? Bah, pocket change.
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VetPsychWars
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

etc-etc wrote:
Perhaps you might entertain to change the title of the thread to "How NOT to clean Schilke valves".

Was it a demo horn? Were you the first user of the horn? If someone else broke in the valves, you might have had issues because the way you press the valves would not be the same.

Unless you like your Schilke horns with loose tolerances, I would stay away from pumice.


This is a poorly-done ad for some crap product. Replies only to make sure no one else does something stupid that they'll regret.

Tom
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LittleRusty
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think it is an ad. But if it is, your post count is two to everyone else's one.

But removing metal from the valves using an abrasive is not a good idea. I would first start with a good instrument cleaning taking extra care to ensure the connecting tubes between the valves are clean.

I then would try different oils. On a new horn I would try different light oils first. But since all shops errors I would also try a heavy oil just in case the valves are loose, not tight, since this can also cause valves to stick.
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razeontherock
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 6:36 pm    Post subject: Re: how to cleen Schilke's valves. Reply with quote

Crazy Finn wrote:

What's $800 every three or four years anyway? Bah, pocket change.


Who's charging that much for a valve job? They can be done for under $500. Think of all the lapping compound you can buy with the difference! Enough to need all new slides, too.
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Crazy Finn
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 7:44 pm    Post subject: Re: how to cleen Schilke's valves. Reply with quote

razeontherock wrote:
Crazy Finn wrote:

What's $800 every three or four years anyway? Bah, pocket change.


Who's charging that much for a valve job? They can be done for under $500. Think of all the lapping compound you can buy with the difference! Enough to need all new slides, too.

You're totally right. That's what I get for pulling a number out of the air.

Charlie Melk charges around $800... for restoration. Not a valve job.
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sparxIV
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 9:48 am    Post subject: trs Reply with quote

I've played a B3 for many years
I never have and never will cleaned the valves. I do clean the rest of the horn
Just oil it with ultraPure (and play it) every day and you will be fine

Cheers,
sparx
www.sparxmusic.com
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Brad361
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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

etc-etc wrote:
Perhaps you might entertain to change the title of the thread to "How NOT to clean Schilke valves".

Was it a demo horn? Were you the first user of the horn? If someone else broke in the valves, you might have had issues because the way you press the valves would not be the same.

Unless you like your Schilke horns with loose tolerances, I would stay away from pumice.


Good grief! I agree, using an abrasive on especially a Schilke's valves sounds like a ridiculously awful idea to me.

I also don't really think this is an ad for some snake oil product, no link to a website or lame Youtube video, even though snake oil is how I would describe such a concoction.

Brad361
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Jerry
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2014 5:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I once had a problem with sticky valves on one of my Schilkes that I hadn't played in months.

I took the advice from someone here on TH and soaked the valves overnight in vinegar/dish detergent mixture. After rinsing the valves in running water the next morning and liberally applying UltraPure, I haven't had a problem with those valves since.
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vandenplass
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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

etc-etc wrote:
Perhaps you might entertain to change the title of the thread to "How NOT to clean Schilke valves".

Was it a demo horn? Were you the first user of the horn? If someone else broke in the valves, you might have had issues because the way you press the valves would not be the same.

Unless you like your Schilke horns with loose tolerances, I would stay away from pumice.


I bought it brand new from Twigg's music
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etc-etc
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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vandenplass wrote:
etc-etc wrote:
Perhaps you might entertain to change the title of the thread to "How NOT to clean Schilke valves".

Was it a demo horn? Were you the first user of the horn? If someone else broke in the valves, you might have had issues because the way you press the valves would not be the same.

Unless you like your Schilke horns with loose tolerances, I would stay away from pumice.


I bought it brand new from Twigg's music


Why not ask Schilke again, it could be just that horn.
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Crazy Finn
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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

etc-etc wrote:
Why not ask Schilke again, it could be just that horn.

No kidding. Using "web recipes" on a Schilke could be like putting some homemade gas from raw crude found in your backyard into your Ferrari.
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vandenplass
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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jerry wrote:
I once had a problem with sticky valves on one of my Schilkes that I hadn't played in months.

I took the advice from someone here on TH and soaked the valves overnight in vinegar/dish detergent mixture. After rinsing th

e valves in running water the next morning and liberally applying UltraPure, I haven't had a problem with those valves since.


Thanks so much for the good advice (vinegar). I tried it for each valves dipped in vinegar for 10 min. I put Ultra cleen oïl and EUREKA For several days I played with no problems. When I went to the store where I bought the Schilke to adjust my valves the craftsman said to me that he will rubbed thew valves with a creamy stuff containing pumice stone. This why I tried to clean. Was not a good idea since you talked about vinegar.

My best regards
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Brad361
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll never understand why some guys would even consider trying a DIY fix like that. If you live in an area where there is not a QUALIFIED tech, ship the horn to someone who is. In this case, Schilke most likely would have corrected the problem, probably at little or no charge. Yeah, packing and shipping a horn is a pain, and not without risk, but a goofy remedy like an abrasive cream on a precisely built horn??? And that "craftaman" (now THERE'S a stretch) who tried that is more than likely some guy who can remove a dent from some kid's Yamaha YTR 2335 and do a chem clean, but not much beyond that.

Brad
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vandenplass
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I clean the valves wuith BlueMagic. When you buy a new trumpet, the manufactory put oil to preserve the valves from corrosion. You can play it for a while (2 hrs a day for me) and just add some synthetic oil. But the problem will occur. I tried BlueMgic metal cleaner. Wow! the valves are chromed after you finish to clean it. Just a bit of oil and this is the end of misery.
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Brad361
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vandenplass wrote:
I clean the valves wuith BlueMagic. When you buy a new trumpet, the manufactory put oil to preserve the valves from corrosion. You can play it for a while (2 hrs a day for me) and just add some synthetic oil. But the problem will occur. I tried BlueMgic metal cleaner. Wow! the valves are chromed after you finish to clean it. Just a bit of oil and this is the end of misery.


"......the manufactory put oil to preserve the valves from corrosion......"
What?

So you switched from selling Vim to BlueMagic? And why am I even responding to a thread that makes no more sense now than it did a year ago?

Brad
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Arbanator
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clean the valves and casings with rubbing alcohol and then re-oil.
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shofar1
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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2016 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This sounds like the green and brown crud that sometimes builds up in many Monel pistons for some people. Try switching to an oil that contains a corrosion passivator (like the MusiChem Rotary Oil of past years) or a synthetic oil.
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