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Kanstul 1000 -1001 Chicago series



 
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Trumpeter585
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2017 1:15 pm    Post subject: Kanstul 1000 -1001 Chicago series Reply with quote

Looking to replace my Getzen Renaissance trumpet 460 bore and I have been looking at the Kanstul 1000 - 460 bore and the 1001 - 464 bore would I really feel that much of a blow difference? Does anyone here play one of these?
Thanks Brian
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Dayton
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2017 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Kanstul 1000 and 1001 are both nice horns. I didn't find much difference in the blow between them.

Out of curiosity, have you considered the Getzen 3052, particularly without a reversed leadpipe? It is along the same lines, but you get Getzen valves!

Good luck!
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shofarguy
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2017 6:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Kanstul 1000 -1001 Chicago series Reply with quote

Trumpeter585 wrote:
Looking to replace my Getzen Renaissance trumpet 460 bore and I have been looking at the Kanstul 1000 - 460 bore and the 1001 - 464 bore would I really feel that much of a blow difference? Does anyone here play one of these?
Thanks Brian


The 1001 has been my favorite Kanstul Bb for a long time. The 1000 is a bit tighter blowing and doesn't feel as well balanced to me, but some players many prefer the greater resistance.

In my opinion, the 1001 is one of the greatest values on the trumpet market today.

As the poster wrote above, the Getzen 3052 is also a fantastic Bb in its .452" bore form. My favorite is the version with the optional #172 bell. I would rank the two about equal, though it may take the Kanstul some play time to get its valves to work their best.
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There is one reason that I practice: to be ready at the downbeat when the final trumpet sounds.
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Trumpeter585
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply's So you are saying the valves are tight on the 1001?
Brian
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LittleRusty
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trumpeter585 wrote:
Thanks for the reply's So you are saying the valves are tight on the 1001?
Brian

Since valves are hand fitted tolerances from any manufacturer's vary from instrument to instrument. Based on what I have read here Kanstul valves tend to have tight tolerances.

My experience with Kanstul was that the valves worked fine from day one. YMMV.

But one difference between Getzen and Kanstul is that Getzen uses nickel valves and warranties them for life. Kanstul uses monel like the majority of the industry.
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Ed Kennedy
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a 1001 that I foolishly traded off. It is a terrific horn, much like the Benge 3X+. Mine had a Flip Oaks treatment which made it that much better. It was pretty free blowing for me which, I think, is why I parted with it. I'm locked into an old Getzen Severinson now.
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shofarguy
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trumpeter585 wrote:
Thanks for the reply's So you are saying the valves are tight on the 1001?
Brian


I have owned 5 Kanstul-built horns. Two of them (both flugelhorn) had one tight valve each that took some hours of playing to get them working reliably under my hand. The other flugelhorn and two trumpets had flawless valves from the start.

After break-in, the two flugelhorn (1025 & Wild Thing) had incredibly fast valves which never gave me a hint of trouble. The other instruments also never gave me a bit of trouble.

It is my opinion that I would rather break in tight fitting valves properly than have loose fitting pistons from the get-go. Also, valve oil choice is critical. I use Flip Oakes' proprietary blend, because I can get it. It far out performs anything else I've used, including T-2. The only downside is that it evaporates pretty fast in Arizona's hot (hot, hot HOT!!), dry summers.
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There is one reason that I practice: to be ready at the downbeat when the final trumpet sounds.
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p76
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a 1001 which I picked up second-hand, valves not an issue.

It's a great horn to play - I prefer a slightly open blow and it's perfect. Great commercial sound too.

If I had to think of "issues", I can come up with only two off the top of my head - if you have big hands you might struggle if you like three fingers between the pipes in the left hand (may have to go Vulcan). Also, I have found that it's a bright horn and not as mpc. sensitive as my other horns, so a lot of work to go mellow. That's my experience anyway YMMV.

I've owned mine for about three years now, and it's my go-to axe. Have played an LA Benge 3X and preferred my Kanstul more.

Cheers,
Roger
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Bb - Selmer Radial, Yamaha YTR634, Kanstul 1001, Kanstul 700.
C - Yamaha 641.
Cornet - Olds Ambassador A6T, Besson 723, Olds Ambassador Long.
Flugel - Kanstul 1525
Mpc. - ACB 3CS, ACB 3ES, Curry 3BBC, Kanstul FB Flugel
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Trumpetingbynurture
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 11:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

p76 wrote:
I've got a 1001 which I picked up second-hand, valves not an issue.

It's a great horn to play - I prefer a slightly open blow and it's perfect. Great commercial sound too.

If I had to think of "issues", I can come up with only two off the top of my head - if you have big hands you might struggle if you like three fingers between the pipes in the left hand (may have to go Vulcan). Also, I have found that it's a bright horn and not as mpc. sensitive as my other horns, so a lot of work to go mellow. That's my experience anyway YMMV.

I've owned mine for about three years now, and it's my go-to axe. Have played an LA Benge 3X and preferred my Kanstul more.

Cheers,
Roger

Hey Roger,

No idea if this will work for you, but on my own kanstul, I was having the same issue of feeling like I was working to keep the sound from getting too bright. I was playing around with the gap at one point and I've found if I put a single wrap of sticky tape on the shank of any of my mouthpieces, the sound seems to darken considerably. I have no idea whether it's just my trumpet (also one of the Chicago series) or because of the gap or because the tape does some sort of slight EQ effect or for some other reason, but might be worth a try?
I'd be curious to hear if it has any effect for you on your 1001. Let me know
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kehaulani
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gap aside, couldn't it also be a slight dampening effect of the tape?
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shofarguy
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is no dispute that the Benge #3 bell has a brilliance to the timbre. It is what Benge aficionados want from a trumpet, IMO. If a person wants a less brilliant sound, the 1001 is not the first place I'd go. But do you really want a sound that has little brilliance? I thought I did for a long time. Not any more.

The Benge sound is also hearty, meaning that is has a warm core. Larger volume mouthpieces can accentuate this warmth, but the brilliance will still be there.

There is another question that pops into my mind. Do listeners think the sound is bright, or do they hear it as dull? There are trumpets that sound bright to the player, yet dull to the listener. The opposite is also true. So, I suggest that you confirm everything you think you hear with another pair of ears out away from the horn.

What I think most players are ultimately looking for when they write that they want a "dark" sounding trumpet is an instrument that responds to their wishes with a broad variety of sound colors. I think you want a trumpet with broad capabilities, rather than one that locks you into one sound. I think the 1001 is an extremely versatile trumpet, but perhaps not the best in this way.

Which trumpets are the best at producing a wide variety of sounds? I think of two. The original Wild Thing (still available through special order) and the Adams A4. If you are a good player and if I am right and you want a capable trumpet, that's where I'd look.
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Brian A. Douglas

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There is one reason that I practice: to be ready at the downbeat when the final trumpet sounds.
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p76
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi All,

I'll give the sticky tape a go and see if it makes a difference. I got the Kanstul for a brighter sound, so it's not a problem for me. I have got "darker" horns (YTR 634), and horns that are very responsive to mpc. (Selmer Radial).

The brilliance of the Kanstul is what I value it for, was just making the point for the OP that the Chicago may not be the best choice if he wants something darker.

Went to see James Morrison last week, and was amazed at the different colours he could get out of his horn.....might have something to do with the player after all

Cheers,
Roger
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Bb - Selmer Radial, Yamaha YTR634, Kanstul 1001, Kanstul 700.
C - Yamaha 641.
Cornet - Olds Ambassador A6T, Besson 723, Olds Ambassador Long.
Flugel - Kanstul 1525
Mpc. - ACB 3CS, ACB 3ES, Curry 3BBC, Kanstul FB Flugel
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Trumpetingbynurture
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

p76 wrote:


Went to see James Morrison last week, and was amazed at the different colours he could get out of his horn.....might have something to do with the player after all

Nah, it must be his mouthpiece, I'm sure of it!
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p76
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hahaha, he has got a pretty cool mpc - Schagerl Apredato no less....man he was good...

Cheers,
Roger
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Bb - Selmer Radial, Yamaha YTR634, Kanstul 1001, Kanstul 700.
C - Yamaha 641.
Cornet - Olds Ambassador A6T, Besson 723, Olds Ambassador Long.
Flugel - Kanstul 1525
Mpc. - ACB 3CS, ACB 3ES, Curry 3BBC, Kanstul FB Flugel
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