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"TwinTube" leadpipe Designs



 
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Blancolate
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 7:03 pm    Post subject: "TwinTube" leadpipe Designs Reply with quote

The new Selmer Concept II as well as one of the vintage Courtois trumpet models, feature a "Twintube" or ""double Leadpipe" design.

What exactly is this design and what is its purpose? Any other horns made with this feature? PROS...CONS?


Last edited by Blancolate on Sat Dec 01, 2007 7:35 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Grasshopper
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like their bringing muscle car exhaust system technology into the leadpipe business...
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rolling360
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 7:28 pm    Post subject: 2 Reply with quote

The Taylor X-Lite has a double tube leaderpipe.
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nieuwguyski
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Conn Vocabell trumpets and cornets had sleeved leadpipes.
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razeontherock
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I'm not mistaken, (and I might be) the free floating leadpipe Josh Landress offers is the same basic idea as the Selmer TT.

The leadpipe itself is attached nowhere. Supposed to vibrate easier.

What keeps it from falling off is it's inside a seperate tube, which is attached to the horn.

Do any of the other horns mentioned so far utilize this idea? It's quite different than simply a really thick leadpipe, or "sleeved" leadpipe. Seems to me like exactly the opposite idea.

Ray
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nieuwguyski
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 1:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

By "sleeved leadpipe" I was referring to a twin-tube leadpipe -- that is, an inner leadpipe and an outer sleeve. There are, necessarily, two points of attachment: at the mouthpiece receiver and where the leadpipe meets the tuning slide. The Conn Vocabell definitely has this feature. Taylor, as I recall, offers a really thick leadpipe.
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gillie89
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 4:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a quote from Andy Taylor's website about his/my XLite:

"We have made the mouthpipe in very light gauge tube, then suspended it at each end inside a stiff but light nickel outer sleeve. This means it is totally free to vibrate along its entire length as it is not touching the 2nd valve brace, or being damped by your right hand. The result is a trumpet that almost anticipates the note!"

The XLite is very responsive.

But I have also owned and played Andy's Chicago Standard 46 II with the one-piece, thick leadpipe. That horn, too, was very responsive.

My friend's Edward's is also a tube in a tube design. His inside tubes are interchangeable.

Gillie
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Tony Scodwell
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 1:29 pm    Post subject: Twin tube leadpipes Reply with quote

I put a couple of twin tube leadpipes together ten years ago to see if the double wall helped any. The theory being a fully vibrating pipe within a tube, and I used my standard brass leadpipe soldered inside a nickle silver tube [same as the tuning slide receiver] running the entire length of the leadpipe, from a machined mouthpiece receiver to accept the outer tube to the tuning slide end [accepting the inner tuning slide]. The mouthpiece receiver was a very heavy one with plenty of "meat" which could be machined down enough to let me solder the outer nickle silver tube into a smooth, straight piece. Soldering the leadpipe inside the outer tube at both ends was a bit of a challenge, especially the mouthpiece receiver end. My opinion of all this was that it wasn't really worth pursuing, and was a little surprised to see the "new" Selmer with this design many years later at NAMM. Just goes to show you that there is very little in the trumpet world that hasn't been tried by someone. somewhere earlier on. I'd be happy to make some up on special order, bearing in mind my schedule these days. I'd need the exact model trumpet it was to fit and if any leadpipe changes and/or specific measurements were required. I would suggest you tell me what horn you're playing at the moment, and if you need a bit more freedom in the blow or a tighter feel. A twin tube pipe like this will cost you $250 from me and an additional $75 to mount it if you desire. Play it a while taped on before you remove the old pipe, and realize the lacquer or plating may be changed. I'm careful as possible, but it is tough to keep the finish intact on this kind of work.
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skootchy
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know this is a little off track but when you first mentioned "double lead pipe" I thought you were referring to having two lead pipes next to each other so you could change the tuning slide into whatever pipe you wanted. I remember a guy...long time ago...that had that set-up. I never asked him about it as I just imagined they both had different characteristics that he felt that he needed. Sort of like switching mouthpieces. Anyone else ever seen that kind of set up?
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A.N.A.Mendez
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nieuwguyski wrote:
The Conn Vocabell trumpets and cornets had sleeved leadpipes.


So does my Olds Super Recording from the 30s....
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Scott42486
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tony,
Have you considered making any of your horns with the sleeved pipe as a request? I'm sure if you offered it as an option someone would buy it. Heck, if the price is right I might be tempted to sell off a horn and order one.

So, how long does everyone think it will be before someone gets curious and finds a way to sleeve flugel leadpipes?
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Tony Scodwell
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 9:13 pm    Post subject: Scodwells with twin tubes Reply with quote

The reason I did those pipes long ago was to see if I liked the way they blew. I didn't. My horns [maybe] aren't everyone's cup of Tequila, but a very good player liked one of them enough to buy it. He still plays on it for all his Bb work, most recently the offstage stuff with the Spokane Symphony.
Tony Scodwell
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_dcstep
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 6:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wayne Tanabe used a sheath on his Chicago Brass Works trumpets. He told me that he thought it was more of a mass thing.

I own a Selmer TT and not that the bracing is very different, with no brace between the leadpipe and 2d valve. Also, Jerome Selmer told me that the sheath kept the braces from the bell to the pipe from actually touching the pipe at a node. Whatever, the TT is a really sweet trumpet that I wish they made with more bell and leadpipe choices.

Dave
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patmikemeth
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 1:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nieuwguyski wrote:
By "sleeved leadpipe" I was referring to a twin-tube leadpipe -- that is, an inner leadpipe and an outer sleeve. There are, necessarily, two points of attachment: at the mouthpiece receiver and where the leadpipe meets the tuning slide. The Conn Vocabell definitely has this feature. Taylor, as I recall, offers a really thick leadpipe.


hi, I've got a nice '34 vocabell 40b. It's leadpipe has a dent on the external sleeve and nothing in the internal one... so I need to unsleeve it to repair the external tube. someone can tell me how disassemble it ? it's soldered or not ? and if yes where ? May be removed the internal one by pushing it with hammer ? sorry for my English... thanks for help
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yourbrass
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi, I've got a nice '34 vocabell 40b. It's leadpipe has a dent on the external sleeve and nothing in the internal one... so I need to unsleeve it to repair the external tube. someone can tell me how disassemble it ? it's soldered or not ? and if yes where ? May be removed the internal one by pushing it with hammer ? sorry for my English... thanks for help[/quote]

It's a three-piece assembly. The mouthpiece receiver is soldered into the outer pipe, and the actual leadpipe just sits in the outer pipe beyond the receiver. The danger in taking it apart is that the leadpipe inside may be rotten and crack when taken out. I'd leave it alone unless you have someone who can make a replacement for you.
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Robert Rowe
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another zombie post comes back from the inner-sanctum.

Still interesting to read. I understood the concept (lame pun ), but never could wrap my mind around the need for such an apparatus.

I HAVE done the "two mouthpipes taped together" ("sistered", in mechanical parlance) bit. Not that noteworthy (another lame pun ).


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A.N.A.Mendez
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yourbrass wrote:
hi, I've got a nice '34 vocabell 40b. It's leadpipe has a dent on the external sleeve and nothing in the internal one... so I need to unsleeve it to repair the external tube. someone can tell me how disassemble it ? it's soldered or not ? and if yes where ? May be removed the internal one by pushing it with hammer ? sorry for my English... thanks for help


It's a three-piece assembly. The mouthpiece receiver is soldered into the outer pipe, and the actual leadpipe just sits in the outer pipe beyond the receiver. The danger in taking it apart is that the leadpipe inside may be rotten and crack when taken out. I'd leave it alone unless you have someone who can make a replacement for you.[/quote]

Charlie Melk has figured these out, give him a ring.
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patmikemeth
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen the inner part of the leadpipe with a boroscope and no rotten or redrot is visible, i think it should be safe to remove if you are sure that the only soldered part is the receiver...
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yourbrass
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

patmikemeth wrote:
I've seen the inner part of the leadpipe with a boroscope and no rotten or redrot is visible, i think it should be safe to remove if you are sure that the only soldered part is the receiver...


The ones I've taken apart are not soldered. The leadpipe will be corroded into place and safely removing it involves pulling with a tapered mandrel. It's similar to pulling a trombone leadpipe from the inner slide.

The whole assembly may have to come off the horn to safely do that. Because I'm cautious about old horns like yours, I try to use the safest method so that nothing is damaged - just taken apart.
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