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Buying a Yamaha 631...trigger or no trigger?


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jondrowjf@gmail.com
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 9:30 am    Post subject: Resale value Reply with quote

When I buy a instrument, always think about the resale valve. Buy one with the trigger if possible. If not add on later. To install a thumb hook and fixed ring installed on my trumpet. Over 100.00 dollars.
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adagiotrumpet
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found that adding a trigger to my Yamaha 631 was a great improvement, well worth the expense.
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JoeLoeffler
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2019 7:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Always get the trigger on a flugelhorn. Get on on the first slide too, if that is an option on the instrument of your choice.

You can’t fight the accoustical realities. Our instruments are an intonation compromise to get 7 chromatic pitches from three valves. Some people will say that mouthpiece choice will fix the inherent issues (see that Adams thread...) or that they just play with the third slide pulled out some (well, what if you need to play an Ab -to say nothing about playing a G# in the key of AMaj). I suppose that many people do not play in situations where intonation is crucial enough or play material technical enough that will be affected by the embiuchure needing to bend things around.

Now... I do view these matters from an orchestral point-of-view. That being said, I have heard a lot of great jazz groups that play with excellent intonation until the flugelhorns come out for that ballad...
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ThatDude
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ended up getting a Yamaha 635st at my price range, thanks everyone
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jondrowjf@gmail.com
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 7:53 am    Post subject: does it have a trigger? Reply with quote

So did the instrument include the trigger? How does it sound?
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ThatDude
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Waiting for it in the mail. Yeah, trigger comes standard. It’s supposed to be a little darker than the 631, we’ll see.
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ThatDude
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 3:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So for anyone who might find this thread in the future and finds themselves in a similar situation:


I got a Yamaha 635 which was their step up from the 631/731 and comes default with with the trigger for $800.

I cannot say enough good about this horn. Sounds and plays exactly how I want with a simple $39 Yamaha 16F4. The sound is dark yet clear and the range and response are increadible. It’s a horn you don’t have to think about ,
Just pick up and play.
Im very glad I spent the extra $200.

Edit: 16F4, not 16E4


Last edited by ThatDude on Fri Jan 18, 2019 10:58 am; edited 1 time in total
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delano
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congratulations with your 635T, good choice. BTW it's not their step up from the 631/731 but a complete different horn with a different concept. The 16E is a cornet mp, you will have the 16F.
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scottfsmith
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good deal, unless it was trashed thats a good price. I looked for two months for a Yamaha flugel with trigger and sub-$800 price but found nothing. $1200 more or less seems to be the going rate for one in average condition.
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gchun01
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

635T is a great horn. I prefer it to the 631/731. Although I play mostly on a 6310z flugel now, there are some things I miss about the 635. For me, the 635 has a silkier and darker sound. Design-wise, the 635 has better valve cap threads than the 6310z, which are easy to cross thread.

I bought mine new for WWBWwhen they first came out ifor around $800.
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Harry Hilgers
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 11:09 am    Post subject: Re: Buying a Yamaha 631...trigger or no trigger? Reply with quote

ThatDude wrote:
I’m looking to buy a flugel and narrowed it down to a Yamaha 631.
I see some have the trigger and most used do not. Question is, is it worth holding out for the trigger? Is the aftermarket installation expensive?

Thanks

I have had a Yamaha 631 Flugelhorn for about 4 decades .......... collecting dust for as many decades.

It has BOTTOM sprung valves that sometimes actually don't hang up.

In simple dynamic terms:

A force UP from the bottom tends to rotate the valve latterly because the valves center of gravity is, due to tolerance, in fact not on the center line of the valve.

Since valve casings also have a "roundness tolerance" there is always enough lateral gap for the valve ends to, at some point, start scraping the sides of the cylinders.

SAFE YOUR MONEY AND AVOID HORNS WITH BOTTOM SPRUNG VALVES.

Cheers,
Harry
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Crazy Finn
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flugels traditionally, and often have bottom sprung valves. It's very common.
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JoeLoeffler
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am sorry, bottom springs will not make your valves hang up any more than springs at the top.
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Nos Mo King
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harry,

Sent you a pm.

Best,

Russ
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Harry Hilgers
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JoeLoeffler wrote:
I am sorry, bottom springs will not make your valves hang up any more than springs at the top.


That’s like saying that a front wheel drive car behaves the same as real wheel drive car

Then why is it that there are so many more front wheel drive than rear wheel drive cars.

And why is it that there are so many more brass horns with top springs than with bottom Springs.

It’s just a matter of statics, dynamics and manufacturing costs.

Bottom springs have lower production costs. Especially on horns with tall valve casings like the flugelhorn.

Cheers
Harry
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Harry Hilgers
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a better example: The ol' broomstick balancing trick.

1. Bottom spring equivalent.
Hold on your (up-facing) hand the end of a long stick pointed upward.
Next quickly raise up your hand. The stick will want to rotate to fall down, unless you move your hand latterly to prevent this.

Your hand is equivalent to the bottom valve spring, except of course that the spring is in a fixed lateral position and thus can not move but straight up and down. Since the valve position is bounded (WITH A TOLERANCE) by the valve casing, a laterally valve motion, however so small, will occur.

2. Top spring equivalent.
When your hand would grab the stick on top and you quickly pull up, the stick will not want to rotate and thus negligent lateral valve motion.

It is a topic of comparing inherently unstable vs stable dynamical systems.

It is exactly this thought process that resulted in the front wheel drive car.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Harry
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cheiden
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm all my years I've seen no evidence that bottom-sprung flugels have more valve trouble than top-sprung instruments. All the instruments I have had trouble with hanging valves was with top-sprung trumpets though I've seen no evidence that the spring placement had anything to do with it.
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nieuwguyski
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2019 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bottom-sprung valves are easier and cheaper to make, and thus lots of cheap instruments have them. And thus there are a lot of bad bottom-sprung valves out there. As well, lots of vintage instruments have bottom-sprung valves and as a result there are a lot of worn-out bottom-sprung valves out there.

If top-sprung valves were inherently superior, high-end manufacturers like Yamaha, Kanstul, Adams, Flip Oakes, B&S, Scodwell, and others, simply wouldn't offer "professional" flugels with bottom-sprung valves. In fact, looking at the Yamaha website, I don't think they currently offer a top-sprung-valve flugel (it looks like the 23xx-series "student" flugel is discontinued). Flip Oakes and Tony Scodwell are boutique horn-makers who charge premium prices for the instruments they sell, could certainly offer top-sprung-valve flugels if they wanted to (and adjust their prices accordingly)... and they choose not to.

And humble old me, a small fish in a smallish pond, prefers a bottom-sprung flugel over one with top-sprung valves. I prefer the more compact wrap, and the Bauernfeind bottom-sprung valves on my flugel work just fine.
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etc-etc
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2019 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nieuwguyski wrote:
Bottom-sprung valves are easier and cheaper to make, and thus lots of cheap instruments have them. And thus there are a lot of bad bottom-sprung valves out there. As well, lots of vintage instruments have bottom-sprung valves and as a result there are a lot of worn-out bottom-sprung valves out there.

If top-sprung valves were inherently superior, high-end manufacturers like Yamaha, Kanstul, Adams, Flip Oakes, B&S, Scodwell, and others, simply wouldn't offer "professional" flugels with bottom-sprung valves. In fact, looking at the Yamaha website, I don't think they currently offer a top-sprung-valve flugel (it looks like the 23xx-series "student" flugel is discontinued). Flip Oakes and Tony Scodwell are boutique horn-makers who charge premium prices for the instruments they sell, could certainly offer top-sprung-valve flugels if they wanted to (and adjust their prices accordingly)... and they choose not to.

And humble old me, a small fish in a smallish pond, prefers a bottom-sprung flugel over one with top-sprung valves. I prefer the more compact wrap, and the Bauernfeind bottom-sprung valves on my flugel work just fine.


A bottom sprung valve has a longer casing body making it heavier - there could be an effect similar to using heavy bottom caps.
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Harry Hilgers
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2019 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

etc-etc wrote:
nieuwguyski wrote:
Bottom-sprung valves are easier and cheaper to make, and thus lots of cheap instruments have them. And thus there are a lot of bad bottom-sprung valves out there. As well, lots of vintage instruments have bottom-sprung valves and as a result there are a lot of worn-out bottom-sprung valves out there.

If top-sprung valves were inherently superior, high-end manufacturers like Yamaha, Kanstul, Adams, Flip Oakes, B&S, Scodwell, and others, simply wouldn't offer "professional" flugels with bottom-sprung valves. In fact, looking at the Yamaha website, I don't think they currently offer a top-sprung-valve flugel (it looks like the 23xx-series "student" flugel is discontinued). Flip Oakes and Tony Scodwell are boutique horn-makers who charge premium prices for the instruments they sell, could certainly offer top-sprung-valve flugels if they wanted to (and adjust their prices accordingly)... and they choose not to.

And humble old me, a small fish in a smallish pond, prefers a bottom-sprung flugel over one with top-sprung valves. I prefer the more compact wrap, and the Bauernfeind bottom-sprung valves on my flugel work just fine.


A bottom sprung valve has a longer casing body making it heavier - there could be an effect similar to using heavy bottom caps.

My Kanstul 1525 has top spring valves and yes, it makes the horn more expensive. Best Flugel I ever played

From the Kanstul website:
Quote:
FEATURES
Hand Hammered, One Piece Copper Bell
Hand Lapped Pistons
Top Sprung Pistons
Receiver Accepts Bach Taper Shank Mouthpiece

Cheers,
Harry
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