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TrumpetMD Heavyweight Member
Joined: 22 Oct 2008 Posts: 2412 Location: Maryland
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Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 1:19 am Post subject: |
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Phoenix864 wrote: | Thanks for the clarification - do either of you run into issues with spreading the residual grease from the tuning slide through the leadpipe? I know that others leave the top leg of the slide inserted to prevent the swap from contacting any grease. |
Yes, this is what I do. I leave the top leg of the tuning in the lead pipe, and run the swab through the lead pipe and tuning slide at the same time. This way, I don't get slide grease on the swab.
Mike _________________ Bach Stradivarius 43* Trumpet (1974), Bach 6C Mouthpiece.
Bach Stradivarius 184 Cornet (1988), Yamaha 13E4 Mouthpiece
Olds L-12 Flugelhorn (1969), Yamaha 13F4 Mouthpiece.
Plus a few other Bach, Getzen, Olds, Carol, HN White, and Besson horns. |
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JayKosta Heavyweight Member
Joined: 24 Dec 2018 Posts: 3302 Location: Endwell NY USA
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Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 7:08 am Post subject: |
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I use 1-time-use individual patches, so I'm not concerned about keeping a 'swab' clean. Also, I've stopped using 'grease' on the valve slides. I use drug store Mineral Oil, not gooey, and works very well on my instruments.
When I patch the leadpipe, I also use a Q-tip for the ID of the tuning & slide tubes, and their receiving tubes. I rarely see any sign of any build-up or other debris. I then re-oil the OD of the inner-tubes prior to assembly.
Jay _________________ Most Important Note ? - the next one !
KNOW (see) what the next note is BEFORE you have to play it.
PLAY the next note 'on time' and 'in rhythm'.
Oh ya, watch the conductor - they set what is 'on time'. |
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Phoenix864 Veteran Member
Joined: 20 May 2019 Posts: 223 Location: Washington DC, US
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Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 10:06 am Post subject: |
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TrumeptMD and JayKosta - Thanks for the instructions. I'll definitely be picking up a swap and cleaning the leadpipe regularly.
More generally, is there anything else that would be beneficial to start doing to keep the horn in top shape, or anything I should do to break it in? My previous routine was just a cleaning every month or so, but I seems like some additional maintenance could be warranted, especially now with the horn being new.
Thanks for all the help. |
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TrumpetMD Heavyweight Member
Joined: 22 Oct 2008 Posts: 2412 Location: Maryland
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Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 12:10 pm Post subject: |
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Phoenix864 wrote: | More generally, is there anything else that would be beneficial to start doing to keep the horn in top shape, or anything I should do to break it in? My previous routine was just a cleaning every month or so, but I seems like some additional maintenance could be warranted, especially now with the horn being new. |
I'd love to hear from others about this too.
For me, when I'm breaking in a new horn, I clean the valves every day for a couple weeks. I wipe down the valves and swab out the valve casings with a microfiber cloth. I also wipe out the bottom of the valves (the vents?) and the valve caps with a tissue.
Here is a link to the microfiber cloths I use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050R68LS
Mike _________________ Bach Stradivarius 43* Trumpet (1974), Bach 6C Mouthpiece.
Bach Stradivarius 184 Cornet (1988), Yamaha 13E4 Mouthpiece
Olds L-12 Flugelhorn (1969), Yamaha 13F4 Mouthpiece.
Plus a few other Bach, Getzen, Olds, Carol, HN White, and Besson horns. |
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Phoenix864 Veteran Member
Joined: 20 May 2019 Posts: 223 Location: Washington DC, US
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Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 10:26 pm Post subject: |
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TrumpetMD wrote: | Phoenix864 wrote: | More generally, is there anything else that would be beneficial to start doing to keep the horn in top shape, or anything I should do to break it in? My previous routine was just a cleaning every month or so, but I seems like some additional maintenance could be warranted, especially now with the horn being new. |
I'd love to hear from others about this too.
For me, when I'm breaking in a new horn, I clean the valves every day for a couple weeks. I wipe down the valves and swab out the valve casings with a microfiber cloth. I also wipe out the bottom of the valves (the vents?) and the valve caps with a tissue.
Here is a link to the microfiber cloths I use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050R68LS
Mike |
That sounds like a good idea, I'm also wonder if rinsing the valves/casing would also have a similar effect? I know water doesn't really get oil off, but maybe it would be more effective on the debris that might build up.
I know I mentioned it a few posts ago, but does anyone know why there might be grease on the springs/top of the pistons and if it's worth reapplying after a cleaning? I'm planning on cleaning the springs with the horn - this might be pretty silly to ask, but is it alright to soak them with the pistons? I normally just set them aside when cleaning valves. |
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OldSchoolEuph Heavyweight Member
Joined: 07 Apr 2012 Posts: 2440
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Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2020 3:53 am Post subject: |
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Phoenix864 wrote: | I know I mentioned it a few posts ago, but does anyone know why there might be grease on the springs/top of the pistons and if it's worth reapplying after a cleaning? I'm planning on cleaning the springs with the horn - this might be pretty silly to ask, but is it alright to soak them with the pistons? I normally just set them aside when cleaning valves. |
Some people have a habit of putting grease, usually cut with valve oil, on the springs.
In many cases, it starts when they stretch a worn out spring to try and extend its life only to be annoyed by the noise it makes on the spring box. As that can also put uneven pressure on the guide, the guide may bind. Lubricating the spring mitigates the ill effects of having done the wrong thing in the first place to some extent.
With newer horns, given the lack of attention in manufacturing today to deburring the box and smoothing the edges of the guides (especially plastic guides with form marks), retailers will often lube the spring and guide rather than take the time to perfect the surfaces the manufacturer failed too.
Between these two drivers, lube on springs is not uncommon. There is no harm in continuing, but in general, the horn will perform better longer if you address the underlying reason for it instead. _________________ Ron Berndt
www.trumpet-history.com
2017 Austin Winds Stage 466
1962 Mt. Vernon Bach 43
1954 Holton 49 Stratodyne
1927 Conn 22B
1957 Holton 27 cornet
1985 Yamaha YEP-621
1975 Yamaha YEP-321 Custom
1965 Besson Baritone
1975 Olds Recording R-20 |
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TrumpetMD Heavyweight Member
Joined: 22 Oct 2008 Posts: 2412 Location: Maryland
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Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2020 5:34 am Post subject: |
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Phoenix864 wrote: | That sounds like a good idea, I'm also wonder if rinsing the valves/casing would also have a similar effect? I know water doesn't really get oil off, but maybe it would be more effective on the debris that might build up. |
You could use water (or soap and water) on the valves and casings. But you still might want to wipe them down with a lint-free cloth, to get rid of any moisture before you oil.
Mike _________________ Bach Stradivarius 43* Trumpet (1974), Bach 6C Mouthpiece.
Bach Stradivarius 184 Cornet (1988), Yamaha 13E4 Mouthpiece
Olds L-12 Flugelhorn (1969), Yamaha 13F4 Mouthpiece.
Plus a few other Bach, Getzen, Olds, Carol, HN White, and Besson horns. |
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Phoenix864 Veteran Member
Joined: 20 May 2019 Posts: 223 Location: Washington DC, US
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Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2020 1:11 pm Post subject: |
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OldSchoolEuph - I see what you mean. I pulled the horn apart for a cleaning and found the edges on the valve guides to be a little rough in spots. I would assume you would recommend smoothing out the edges?
TrumpetMD - Good advice, thanks. I'll start regularly rinsing and wiping down the valves and casings.
When disassembling the horn, I found that the third valve's stem was stuck. Are there any other safe methods worth trying before taking it to a tech? It's not a huge deal (it seems most people don't even disassemble the valves anyways), but something I'd like to take care of before it gets really frozen. |
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JayKosta Heavyweight Member
Joined: 24 Dec 2018 Posts: 3302 Location: Endwell NY USA
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Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2020 2:29 pm Post subject: |
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Phoenix864 wrote: | ...and found the edges on the valve guides to be a little rough in spots. ...
... I found that the third valve's stem was stuck. Are there any other safe methods worth trying before taking it to a tech? It's not a huge deal (it seems most people don't even disassemble the valves anyways), but something I'd like to take care of before it gets really frozen. |
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If the roughness is in an area that actually rubs (moving surfaces) then maybe very careful smoothing might help. If it is just the little tabs that locate the guide in the case - as long as they fit securely, I wouldn't touch them.
What's the point of removing the stems? Would that help do a better cleaning in some way?
I would just use a Q-tip and tissue paper to remove the grease gobs from the springs.
The fewer 'properly working parts' that you disassemble, the more likely they will remain 'properly working'.
Jay _________________ Most Important Note ? - the next one !
KNOW (see) what the next note is BEFORE you have to play it.
PLAY the next note 'on time' and 'in rhythm'.
Oh ya, watch the conductor - they set what is 'on time'. |
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Ronnman Veteran Member
Joined: 09 Aug 2019 Posts: 409 Location: SE Louisiana
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Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2020 5:17 pm Post subject: |
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Phoenix864 - I believe in removing the valve stems, particularly on Bach with the aluminum stems. If you are not comfortable with your technical skills take it to a tech. The aluminum stems tend to seize over time due to the dissimilar metals. Once apart place a little anti-seize on the threads to prevent this from occurring again. The last stuck stems I worked on, were so stuck, even after soaking with penetrating oil, I had to add heat to the top of the valve assembly to break it loose. The original nylon valve guides melted, but I had replacements on hand. I do not think yours stems anywhere near this level.
Also, as mentioned, some of the valve guide vertical slots are somewhat rough from machining at the manufacturer. I take some 800 grit wet sandpaper fold over a small flat blade screwdriver and gently pass up and down the slot until smooth. This usually just takes just a few passes. This is done without the stems, springs and guides on the valves. Make sure to wash the valve out throughly afterward. The idea is to make the surfaces smooth without changing the dimensions, which would defeat the valve’s alignment. I have achieved smooth and quieter valve action by looking at all the parts that touch each other and smoothing these surfaces.
I am also a spring lubricator To prevent any spring rub against the valve’s spring housing. I use pure lanolin for this purpose.
Ron _________________ Martin Committee #2 1954
Leblanc “Al Hirt” Model 1966
Olds Custom Crafted Ultra Sonic 1974
Edwards Gen II 2014 |
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Phoenix864 Veteran Member
Joined: 20 May 2019 Posts: 223 Location: Washington DC, US
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Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2020 5:32 pm Post subject: |
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JayKosta wrote: | Phoenix864 wrote: | ...and found the edges on the valve guides to be a little rough in spots. ...
... I found that the third valve's stem was stuck. Are there any other safe methods worth trying before taking it to a tech? It's not a huge deal (it seems most people don't even disassemble the valves anyways), but something I'd like to take care of before it gets really frozen. |
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If the roughness is in an area that actually rubs (moving surfaces) then maybe very careful smoothing might help. If it is just the little tabs that locate the guide in the case - as long as they fit securely, I wouldn't touch them.
What's the point of removing the stems? Would that help do a better cleaning in some way?
I would just use a Q-tip and tissue paper to remove the grease gobs from the springs.
The fewer 'properly working parts' that you disassemble, the more likely they will remain 'properly working'.
Jay |
The roughness is on the side of the guides (with the alignment nubs facing toward you). I don't think the slide of the guide contacts the inside of the piston during a valve-stroke, but I can't quite tell for sure. Either way, with the grease gone the valves still sound fine. Maybe a bit louder than with the grease, but similarity loud to my previous Bach's valves (which did not have grease).
I actually was able to get the stem off, I think over a couple tries I loosened it up. I personally like removing the stems as it allows me to soak/clean/wet the valves however I like without risking getting the felts wet. I haven't had problems in the past with taking apart and reassembling valves, so I continue to do it.
There was a lot of grease on the spring and inside the piston - I probably spent 5 minutes on each spring just to get the grease off. Getting the springs out allowed me to clean out the insides of the pistons.
With the grease gone I feel better knowing that it won't break down over time and collect inside/on the pistons. Maybe a minor thing, but I prefer to know exactly what kind of lubricants are on the horn.
Just about everything looked in order both on the inside and outside of the horn. The only slightly unusual thing was the 3rd valve spring was a little bent, but since it's guided from both the top and bottom I think it shouldn't be much of an issue.
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Phoenix864 Veteran Member
Joined: 20 May 2019 Posts: 223 Location: Washington DC, US
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Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2020 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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Ronnman wrote: | Phoenix864 - I believe in removing the valve stems, particularly on Bach with the aluminum stems. If you are not comfortable with your technical skills take it to a tech. The aluminum stems tend to seize over time due to the dissimilar metals. Once apart place a little anti-seize on the threads to prevent this from occurring again. The last stuck stems I worked on, were so stuck, even after soaking with penetrating oil, I had to add heat to the top of the valve assembly to break it loose. The original nylon valve guides melted, but I had replacements on hand. I do not think yours stems anywhere near this level.
Also, as mentioned, some of the valve guide vertical slots are somewhat rough from machining at the manufacturer. I take some 800 grit wet sandpaper fold over a small flat blade screwdriver and gently pass up and down the slot until smooth. This usually just takes just a few passes. This is done without the stems, springs and guides on the valves. Make sure to wash the valve out throughly afterward. The idea is to make the surfaces smooth without changing the dimensions, which would defeat the valve’s alignment. I have achieved smooth and quieter valve action by looking at all the parts that touch each other and smoothing these surfaces.
I am also a spring lubricator To prevent any spring rub against the valve’s spring housing. I use pure lanolin for this purpose.
Ron |
Just saw your post - good info there, thanks. As stated in my other post I got the stem moving. I put some valve oil on the treads of each stem to mitigate future sticking.
As for the burrs, they actually are on the little white delrin valve guide, not the slots in the valves themselves. I've found the machining on this horn to quite good across the board. Everything is super clean and nicely finished.
How important do you think it is to grease the springs? Personally, I prefer using less grease just to keep things less messy, but if it would decrease wear and tear I would be willing to do it. |
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Ronnman Veteran Member
Joined: 09 Aug 2019 Posts: 409 Location: SE Louisiana
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Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2020 6:07 pm Post subject: |
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Phoenix864 - I see the bend in the spring as well. Is this on your new horn? If so, you should request a new set of valve springs be installed. Check this valve spring action by manually holding the assembled valve’s guide and pushing upwards. Notice if the spring is touching the valve housing anywhere. If so, it will likely make a slight scratching noise when in the horn and moving the valve. This may be why they were greased. Also, looking at your pic on the first page of this thread, with the third valve partially inserted in the casing, look at the guide. See how it is cocked slightly. This likely due the the bent spring.
Regarding the grease on the springs, I would try it without and with some and see if you notice and difference. I suspect it will be minor.
If the stem is aluminum, I would add some grease or anti-seize (available from an auto parts or hardware store) to the threads.
Ron _________________ Martin Committee #2 1954
Leblanc “Al Hirt” Model 1966
Olds Custom Crafted Ultra Sonic 1974
Edwards Gen II 2014 |
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Phoenix864 Veteran Member
Joined: 20 May 2019 Posts: 223 Location: Washington DC, US
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Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2020 6:23 pm Post subject: |
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Ronnman wrote: | Phoenix864 - I see the bend in the spring as well. Is this on your new horn? If so, you should request a new set of valve springs be installed. Check this valve spring action by manually holding the assembled valve’s guide and pushing upwards. Notice if the spring is touching the valve housing anywhere. If so, it will likely make a slight scratching noise when in the horn and moving the valve. This may be why they were greased. Also, looking at your pic on the first page of this thread, with the third valve partially inserted in the casing, look at the guide. See how it is cocked slightly. This like due the the bent spring.
Regarding the grease on the springs, I would try it without and with some and see if you notice and difference. I suspect it will be minor.
If the stem is aluminum, I would add some grease or anti-seize (available from an auto parts or hardware store) to the threads.
Ron |
Yep, this is the new horn. I'll check to see if spring rubs - after putting everything back together the valve guide is now straight. If there is rub, I'll probably just purchase a new set of springs myself. The shop already has helped me out a lot.
I'm not sure about the material of the stem. This is a Schagerl horn, and part specs are basically impossible to find online. Thanks for the recommendation for anti-seize either way, I might try some in the future to be safe. |
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Phoenix864 Veteran Member
Joined: 20 May 2019 Posts: 223 Location: Washington DC, US
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Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2020 9:17 pm Post subject: |
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A few days back I emailed Schagerl about if they recommended putting grease on their valve springs. I got a response back today - it actually seems they are very much against it.
"please do not use grease for the valves, just some valve oil and NOT on the springs."
So, I'll be keeping grease off the springs. |
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cgaiii Heavyweight Member
Joined: 26 Jun 2017 Posts: 1545 Location: Virginia USA
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 10:16 pm Post subject: |
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+1 Use it after every playing session and swab through the tuning slide and leadpipe. _________________ Bb: Schilke X3L AS SP, Yamaha YTR-6335S
C: Schilke CXL, Kanstul 1510-2
Picc: Kanstul 920
Bb Bugle: Kanstul
Bb Pocket: Manchester Brass
Flugel: Taylor Standard
Bass Trumpet: BAC Custom
Natural Tr: Custom Haas replica by Nikolai Mänttäri Morales |
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Phoenix864 Veteran Member
Joined: 20 May 2019 Posts: 223 Location: Washington DC, US
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 10:21 pm Post subject: |
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cgaiii wrote: |
+1 Use it after every playing session and swab through the tuning slide and leadpipe. |
Will do - I purchased one and hope to have it next week. Hopefully it will prevent anything from building up in the leadpipe. While I don't think the buildup really affects the sound or damages the horn, it sure is annoying not being able to get the horn entirely clean. |
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tptptp Heavyweight Member
Joined: 25 Oct 2001 Posts: 1409 Location: Georgia
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Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 5:36 am Post subject: |
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Phoenix864 wrote: |
While I don't think the buildup really affects the sound or damages the horn, it sure is annoying not being able to get the horn entirely clean. |
One little thought:
I think most say that a chronically unclean leadpipe does result in damage to the metal of the pipe. _________________ Craig Mitchell |
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kehaulani Heavyweight Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2003 Posts: 9013 Location: Hawai`i - Texas
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Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 9:49 am Post subject: |
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I guess I'm kind of an outlier, but I've been a professional for a half a century and that's a loooong time, and I've almost never swabbed my lead pipe. I have cleaned it, periodically, along with the rest of the horn.
I'm not dismissing people's experience or desires but I've just never felt the need for one, myself. And to my knowledge, my horns have never shown any negative effects resulting from this.
So, I would say, if you feel you need one, use it. But it's not a given. _________________ "If you don't live it, it won't come out of your horn." Bird
Yamaha 8310Z Bobby Shew trumpet
Benge 3X Trumpet
Benge 3X Cornet
Adams F-1 Flghn |
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oliver king Heavyweight Member
Joined: 07 Aug 2008 Posts: 1742
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Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 10:16 am Post subject: |
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I've been of the brush and swab/floss daily school. I will drain, brush, swab and flush after playing and then oil valves. I start the day with a few drops of oil down the lead pipe and blow it through. _________________ LB Bel Canto #59
Holton B47
Frankenhorn projects 1-5
Adams F1
Olds Super Tenor Trombone
Alesis QS8
B2MS3, B2GS3, |
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