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Felts changing



 
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Blueblue
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 7:38 pm    Post subject: Felts changing Reply with quote

After changing the felts under the finger buttons, I have the idea it changed my trumpet. Can this be true?

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/34/Trompette_-_premier_piston_-_montage_perspective.jpg
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Ed Kennedy
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You bet, they affect the alignment of the valves on the down-stroke.
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zaferis
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 3:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the proper size/thickness is needed for both the up stroke and downstroke. Not just any set of felts/bumpers will do.
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JayKosta
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The felt under the valve cap determines the alignment when the piston is UP.
If the sound with all valves UP is good, then don't worry about those felts. If you don't like the results with all UP, you can try some 'rough tests'.
Very slightly depressing a valve would simulate a thicker felt under the cap. Unscrewing the cap slightly would simulate a thinner felt under the cap.

The felt on top of the cap, and any felts or spacers between the button and the shaft determine DOWN alignment. On my horns those 'spacers' have an OD just slightly larger than the shaft - in effect they lengthen the shaft by raising the button. You'd have to look closely at the under-button material to determine its function on your horn.
Sightly unscrewing the button gives more downward piston movement, and would simulate thinner felt of top of the cap, OR thicker spacer under the button.

My goal (as a DIYer) is to have the 'sound quality' good and similar among ALL the valve combinations. Specifically changing the alignment on a valve that seems to degrade the sound when in either UP or DOWN position.

And doing a PVA (should) include doing a lot of test playing to determine the alignment that gives best overall sound quality - which might be different than how the valves 'look' or 'measure'.

Jay
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James Becker
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As a practitioner of precision valve alignments, it’s been my experience and the experience of our customers that deviations of .005” or greater are perceptible by player and audible by listener.

To get it in the ballpark is better than not. However, we go to great lengths to optimize your instruments by precisely measuring and correcting deviations.

A common comparison I like to draw is that the bore is the sound path, much like a road is to driving. The less disruptive we can make it the better.

You only need is to ask the folks that have experienced the difference our PVA has made on their instruments.

Calling all customer to provide your testimonies.

Thank you!
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cheiden
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FWIW, I've had precision valve alignment (PVA) performed by Bob Reeves on most of my horns and I'm a fan. In additional to making the horn more even tempered, Reeves replaces the felts which are not very durable with an alternate material that is very durable. So not only does the horn play better, it stays better for a very long time.

A side benefit is that you don't have to worry about the felts when washing the horn since the new material don't absorb water.
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TrumpetMD
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 8:23 am    Post subject: Re: Felts changing Reply with quote

Blueblue wrote:
After changing the felts under the finger buttons, I have the idea it changed my trumpet. Can this be true?

Two questions.

1) Do you believe it changed things for better or worse?

2. Also, did you also clean the horn when changing the felts? I ask, because a good cleaning that removes a lot of "pizza" from your horn might also change the way it plays.

Mike
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cgaiii
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am also a fan of PVA. Changing the felts can definitely make a difference, and standard felts wear in and continue to wear, so your alignment changes over time. They may be a little fat to begin with. The best way is with someone like Mr. Becker or perhaps even your local shop (if they have the equipment and the knowhow) doing a PVA. They use synthetic felts that last much longer and position the valves more precisely. I often wonder why this is not done at the factory or by the shop selling the horn when. The only one I know that makes it part of selling a new horn is Austin Custom Brass, but I am sure there are others. Most players I know send new horns or newly acquired horns if not aligned out immediately to have this done before putting the horn to serious use. So many more horns would test better in the showroom if aligned and if the tester had a way of gapping them properly.
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Richard A
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 4:21 pm    Post subject: Valve Alignment Reply with quote

James Becker wrote:
Calling all customer to provide your testimonies.

Thank you!


I have had valve alignments done on two trumpets by James Becker. Money well spent.
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Beyond16
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 4:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Felts changing Reply with quote

Blueblue wrote:
After changing the felts under the finger buttons, I have the idea it changed my trumpet. Can this be true?


By under the button you refer to the ones that hit when the button is pressed, right? If so, checking the second valve alignment is easy. Just pull the second valve slide and watch as you press the button. The opening should start as an eclipse, and just reach fully open as the felt stops the motion. Same test for third usually, though may need a flashlight.

Up alignment is a little more difficult. As a rough check, the button should travel 15.5mm from up to down. 15.5 mm seems nearly universal for horns built in the last 80 or years or so. If in doubt, measure the vertical offset of the valve ports.
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zaferis
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

James Becker wrote:
Calling all customer to provide your testimonies.

Thank you!


Yes, James did his magic on a brand new instrument for me.. even on a new instrument that one would think was setup pretty well, I definitely noticed the difference (so did my wife, a non-trumpeter)
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Blueblue
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 10:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Felts changing Reply with quote

I changed back the old felts, inside, outside on top I have the rubber one

So the new felt did change the free blow a lot, they gave alignment change indeed…I lost free blow.

Ive learned a lot from you all!

Think I am now going to try synthetic in different thickness sizes.




TrumpetMD wrote:
Blueblue wrote:
After changing the felts under the finger buttons, I have the idea it changed my trumpet. Can this be true?

Two questions.

1) Do you believe it changed things for better or worse?

2. Also, did you also clean the horn when changing the felts? I ask, because a good cleaning that removes a lot of "pizza" from your horn might also change the way it plays.

Mike

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Blueblue
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 10:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Felts changing Reply with quote

I followed your advice and could see a rim with the new felts, with the old onces the gab was open.

Beyond16 wrote:
Blueblue wrote:
After changing the felts under the finger buttons, I have the idea it changed my trumpet. Can this be true?


By under the button you refer to the ones that hit when the button is pressed, right? If so, checking the second valve alignment is easy. Just pull the second valve slide and watch as you press the button. The opening should start as an eclipse, and just reach fully open as the felt stops the motion. Same test for third usually, though may need a flashlight.

Up alignment is a little more difficult. As a rough check, the button should travel 15.5mm from up to down. 15.5 mm seems nearly universal for horns built in the last 80 or years or so. If in doubt, measure the vertical offset of the valve ports.

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stumac
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been measuring the center to center distance between the ports on the input and output sides of valves, the results have been surprising, only three of my trumpets have what I consider to be good engineering tolerance, Olds Super Recording 0.001"-0.002" all valves, Eclipse and Taylor with Bauerfine valves the same, others in range 0.005" to 0.008". One unbranded European 1st valve output ports 0.015".

If any interest I will measure more and tabulate the results, perhaps James would like to comment.

Regards, Stuart.
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JayKosta
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2020 4:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

stumac wrote:
I have been measuring the center to center distance between the ports on the input and output sides of valves, the results have been surprising, ...
perhaps James would like to comment. ...

--------------------------
Not James Becker, nor a repair tech - but

The variance in piston port spacing and likely casing port spacing is why I consider it to be 'best practice' during a valve alignment to actually PLAY the instrument using all the valve combinations. During the play-test, the best compromise of alignment can be chosen.

With a valve depressed there are 8 openings involved -
1) case into piston
2) piston in
3) piston out to slide
4) case out to slide
5) case in to piston
6) piston in
7) piston out to next valve or bell
8) case out to next valve or bell

From the original Reeves PVA patent text -
"... thereafter testing the upstroke playing response of said instrument; if such response is defective adjusting the upstroke of said piston to misalign said piston up to 10/1000 inch;
there after testing the downstroke playing response of said instrument; if such response is defective adjusting the downstroke of said piston to misalign said piston in the range of 3/1000 to 10/1000 inch. "

the quoted section is at the very end of the patent text -
https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/e7/4a/56/d35c8a2968c99c/US3990342.pdf

Jay
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PLAY the next note 'on time' and 'in rhythm'.
Oh ya, watch the conductor - they set what is 'on time'.
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Riojazz
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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2020 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Related question for the experts on valve alignment:

I recently put one of these new tiny endoscopes into my flugel, determined the downstroke alignment on the first valve was considerably off (not far enough down), and corrected it by the right width felt. It now sounds more in tune. I do realize sending it to an expert is better, but is this a reliable enough method to set basic valve alignment as a first step?

Note: on the Kanstul 1525, the design permits a 'straight-through' look at each valve, for one of the valve's holes anyway. Valves two and three were nicely aligned. I realize this isn't possible on most horns, but you can look in any slide.
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James Becker
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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2020 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let me first state that our method of alignment is proprietary. Every practitioner has their own standard for how much deviation is permissible, for example the Reeves reference as Jay pointed out.

That said, there are instances where piston liner diameters may or may not agree with valve casing knuckles. Bach Flugelhorns come to mind where the casing knuckles and slides are .401” while the piston liners are significantly larger. Trumpets with piston liners that are larger than the bore size include Calicchio and Monette, among others. In addition these two makers also chamfer the face the ports of their pistons, yet another consideration to be taken into account.
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JayKosta
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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2020 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

James Becker wrote:
... in addition these two makers also chamfer the face the ports of their pistons, yet another consideration to be taken into account.

---------------------
Yep, there's a whole bunch of considerations that need to be addressed. That's why it's best to get it done by an experienced pro when you want it 'done right' and to 'work well'.

Jay
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Most Important Note ? - the next one !
KNOW (see) what the next note is BEFORE you have to play it.
PLAY the next note 'on time' and 'in rhythm'.
Oh ya, watch the conductor - they set what is 'on time'.
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cgaiii
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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2020 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JayKosta wrote:

Yep, there's a whole bunch of considerations that need to be addressed. That's why it's best to get it done by an experienced pro when you want it 'done right' and to 'work well'.

+1 to this. I once investigated trying to get the equipment an knowhow to do this myself. I decided against it. Better to have it done right.
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