What can be done about my Calicchio? Help!

[tajmozach1898]

Okay, so I had this horn on a gig a while back. I put it on a stand, and one of the other guys in the back row knocked it over while just being careless. The fall left a crack in the bell about 2 inches long. During repair (which has been functionally excellent) the gold plate was removed in spots.

Would it be possible to remove the remaining gold plate off the bell, leaving it silver plated?

I have pictures of the horn, I just can't figure out how to get the pictures into the post.

Thanks!
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Schilke B5
B&S 3136/2
Yamaha 8335
Kanstul 920 Custom Class

[Andy Del]

The guy who damaged your horn has not completed paying for the repair. Spot gold plating can be done... get them to pay to return your horn to the condition it was in before they were goofing off.
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so many horns, so few good notes...

[Christian K. Peters]

Hello,
Sorru about your Calicchio... I noticed that you also have a Schilke. I have a few Schilkes and have owned two Calicchios in the past. If you mean crack as in crack, not crease, I would contact John Duda and get a new bell. Soldering up two inches on a bell would not do resonance any good. Creases can be ironed out, and depending on bell or thickness of the bell, could be acceptable. If you have a 1S bell on a later serial number..over #2600, I would get a new bell.
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Christian K. Peters
Schilke Loyalist since 1976

[tajmozach1898]

[Ed Kennedy]

[Uberopa]

Sad news about your horn. My 1SZ2 is #5019. I would suggest sending yours to Mike Paulson at BrassMasters in Seattle. He made my new to me horn playable and an excellent horn. He can do a cleaning and laser valve alignment and check the bell and recommend any need for plating. Very reasonable rates too.

[yourbrass]

[Brad361]

This is totally not helpful, but that’s why I NEVER leave a horn on a stand unattended. I’ve had the same thing happen twice....MANY years ago, I guess I didn’t learn after the first time, but I did the second time. 🙄

Brad
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When asked if he always sounds great:
"I always try, but not always, because the horn is merciless, unpredictable and traitorous." - Arturo Sandoval

[cbtj51]

[Robert Rizzo]

What is wrong with 1s bells after serial no. 2600? Why are the newer ones preferred? Can you describe how 1s bells have changed from, a horn built by Dominic; built before serial no. 2600; built after 2600; a Duda built Calicchio? I’ve only played Calicchios mostly from the late 90s/2000s & 1 from the Tulsa era. The Tulsa Calicchio played a lot different from the late 90s horns. To my memory mostly due to the lead pipe. The Calicchio I’m playing now was built in 2000, the 2 lead pipe plays very open on it, as if the slotting/resistance of the horn is at the bell. The Duda 2 lead pipe I played almost seemed like a tweaked Bach 25 pipe. It was beautiful, but on that horn the resistance/slotting was more at the front end of the horn. The main differences I’ve found with 1s bells is the amount of character in the sound from horn to horn. How do they vary, weight, bell bow, rim, etc...?
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Robert Rizzo

[Uberopa]

I had my horn replated and was told that the lead pipe was rotten. The tech told me that he knew the similar Bach pipe and replaced it. I found that the horn acted very oddly when I got it back. The initial attack had to be quite aggressive to initiate the sound. Then the slots were uneven and the horn was very squirrelly. I sent it to Brass Masters Mike Paulson. He told me that I needed a real Calicchio pipe. He tasked me with finding a replacement as he had none in stock. Fortunately I had one that I found here in the marketplace and I sent it to him. When the horn came back I was astonished. Very playable with a nice even scale and the sound especially in the low register was huge.
In my experience the correct leadpipe is essential and a valve alignment helped tremendously.
My experience FWIW.