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Toothpaste Valve Lapping


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Just_Another_Hack
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Member is upset.
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dstpt
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

robrtx wrote:
https://www.trumpetherald.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1002348

There are some good suggestions by some respected members in this older thread (including the toothpaste method that Patrick used) that might be helpful.

Suggestions mentioned in this 2009 TH thread include:

1. (white) vinegar

2. Tony Scodwell mentioned:
a. ⅓ Dawn dishwashing liguid, ⅔ white vinegar...soak
b. CRC Brakleen
c. "polishing" the valves with Colgate, then clean with lots of soap and water

3. Electronic Cleaner (looks like a good option before toothpaste, and reportedly will not affect lacquer)

4. lapping with toothpaste (as noted earlier in this thread, Renold Schilke used it)
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dstpt
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

duplicate post

Last edited by dstpt on Fri Mar 24, 2023 8:53 am; edited 1 time in total
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dstpt
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I previously indicated, I've lapped valves and slides with toothpaste as well as with light lapping compound (2000 grit) and always with success. This was prior to the new brass tech at the H&H Music Store about 3 minutes from my house. He has a compression gauge, and I've watched him test some horns of mine after having him install Saturn water keys. I might take a couple of these other horns that I've lapped to him to test. At home tests of moving slides and "popping" the valves has seemed the same before and after, though, and I haven't noticed any change in the blow, so I don't know that his device will show much degraded compression. The main thing to me is playability and function, of course, so if my colleagues (who've played some of these horns) and I don't notice a change, then I don't think toothpaste is that severe, but you have to clean thoroughly, which can be a hassle.

I use a Swab-Its swab (for rifles) to go down the bell and through the connection tube from 1st to 2nd valve, and then down the lower 3rd slide to reach between the connection tube between 3rd and 2nd valves.

SWAB-ITS .22cal/5.56mm Pull-Thru Gun Cleaning Bore-Whips Pull Through Cleaning Swabs

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SK4F2CY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The title of the product says "Pull Through," but I push it through, so that only the swab end is touching the valve casing, when it reaches it. Also, I cut some inches off the end of each "whip" to make it more manageable; I don't need the full length...just enough to reach from end of bell flare to 1st/2nd valve connection tube. (Someone please tell me the most common term for the "connection tube.") I sometimes use these for swabbing leadpipes at the end of the day, but they usually can't get past the water key, like Tim Wendt's swab. which is excellent.
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kehaulani
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Guys, I just got my horn back from the shop and the 1st and 3rd valve slides hang. I have a hard time initially moving them. I called the shop and the person I talked with suggested a good cleaning in case maybe some old slide grease was accumulated at the closure point of the slide.

Well, I've done that to no avail. I don't want too send the horn back because the round trip shipping costs seem out of proportion to what needs doing. Do you think rubbing them with toothpaste would help? Thanks.
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dstpt
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kehaulani wrote:
Guys, I just got my horn back from the shop and the 1st and 3rd valve slides hang. I have a hard time initially moving them. I called the shop and the person I talked with suggested a good cleaning in case maybe some old slide grease was accumulated at the closure point of the slide.

Well, I've done that to no avail. I don't want too send the horn back because the round trip shipping costs seem out of proportion to what needs doing. Do you think rubbing them with toothpaste would help? Thanks.

If you're a little skittish about starting with toothpaste, then try the other options from the 2009 TH thread on cleaning valves. It seems that lapping with toothpaste or a light lapping compound would be last on the list of approaches. If you rub with toothpaste, as Tony Scodwell had mentioned, then thoroughly cleaning and even using white vinegar and rubbing alcohol (forgot to mention before) are good ways to get the toothpaste off of the valves.

Another option after getting the gunk fully removed might be to buy some EVGs!

https://www.trumpetherald.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=161209&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
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JayKosta
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kehaulani wrote:
... Do you think rubbing them with toothpaste would help? Thanks.

----------------
First try 1 leg at a time - if the single legs feel ok, then maybe something wrong with the alignment of the slide legs or the receiving legs.

If polishing of the legs is needed, I'd start with a green 'pot scrubber' pad with NO abrasive added. If that isn't enough, then toothpaste with the pad.
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kehaulani
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you mean by "Legs", Jay? "Slides"
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etc-etc
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

trickg wrote:
(snip) I was having some serious issues with the 3rd valve - it mostly went away with just a cursory cleaning, oiling and playing, but it would start to catch here and there if I didn't keep fresh oil on it. (snip)


Which points to poor wetting of the surface - it does not keep the layer of oil intact.
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etc-etc
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kehaulani wrote:
Guys, I just got my horn back from the shop and the 1st and 3rd valve slides hang. I have a hard time initially moving them. I called the shop and the person I talked with suggested a good cleaning in case maybe some old slide grease was accumulated at the closure point of the slide.

Well, I've done that to no avail. I don't want too send the horn back because the round trip shipping costs seem out of proportion to what needs doing. Do you think rubbing them with toothpaste would help? Thanks.


This can be checked by inserting slide legs one at a time. If individually the legs slide smoothly, the issue is with legs being out of parallel. If individually the legs are moving with friction, they can be out of round, have a slight lengthwise bend, or other surface defects.
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kehaulani
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you, folks. I'm getting it taken care of.
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trickg
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 6:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just_Another_Hack wrote:
Good lord. First this guy hops on a gig right after abdominal surgery. Then he's putting toothpaste in his valve casings.

Senility is real.

There are rules on this board that prohibit name calling, personal attacks and insults. I very much see your comment above as a personal attack and insult, and I would appreciate if you would delete or edit it. I'll give you an hour or two before I report it.

Moving on, using toothpaste to clean/lap valves and slides isn't new, nor is it unorthodox. I learned about doing that in HS from an instrument repair technician when I was in high school in the 1980s, but this is the only time I've ever actually tried it.

Let's look at something else. Stainless steel is roughly the same hardness as tooth enamel, and monel is harder than stainless steel. We use toothpaste on our teeth at least once EVERY DAY (well, at least those of us who aren't gross do) and multiple times a day for those who are nitpicky about oral hygiene. How worried are you about wearing down your dental enamel? We scrub our teeth a lot longer and harder than anything I did to my valves the other day.

For those people in this thread who think cleaning and polishing valves and casings with toothpaste is somehow doing something wrong or egregious, get a grip. Seriously, get a grip.
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Last edited by trickg on Fri Mar 24, 2023 7:22 am; edited 2 times in total
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trickg
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 6:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JayKosta wrote:
kehaulani wrote:
... Do you think rubbing them with toothpaste would help? Thanks.

----------------
First try 1 leg at a time - if the single legs feel ok, then maybe something wrong with the alignment of the slide legs or the receiving legs.

If polishing of the legs is needed, I'd start with a green 'pot scrubber' pad with NO abrasive added. If that isn't enough, then toothpaste with the pad.

I recommend AGAINST using a green Scotchbrite pad.

Folks like me who are into wristwatches use green Scotchbrite (dry, no added abrasive) to dress stainless steel watch bracelets to give them that new brushed steel look.

Green Scotchbrite is VERY abrasive - so much so that it only takes a few passes with the Scotchbrite pad to refresh a bracelet - to remove the scratches gained in normal wear and tear, usually on the bottom of the bracelet/inside of the wrist and on the clasp.

The green Scotchbrite will certainly take some material off, but maybe more material than you'd want to take off - brass is not nearly as hard as stainless, and I know what it does to stainless.
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Riojazz
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was intrigued enough the first time I read about using toothpaste that I wouldn't hesitate to try it gently if other normal methods failed. But I wouldn't know about the specific abrasiveness of brands of toothpastes. This link was given earlier in the thread:

• Toothpastes have a very broad range of abrasiveness. Here's a link to a fairly current chart ranking abrasiveness by RDA (Relative Dentin Abrasion) Value
https://tinyurl.com/zhvych5z

But my browser is blocking that link! Would someone mind copying the text and placing it in a post here, so I (and likely others) can see it?

Thanks.

EDIT: Never mind, if it's this, I found it:

https://www.williamsonperio.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Toothpaste-Abrasiveness-Ranked-by-RDA.pdf

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trickg
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Toothpastes do have a broad range of abrasiveness, but again, people brush their teeth with these products every single day, and they scrub longer and harder than anything we're going to do with our valves and valve casings, which are equivalent in hardness to tooth enamel.

Looking up QUANTUM Fresh toothpaste, it's advertised as being an equivalent to Crest, but employing my strong Google-fu I've been able to determine that is advertised as "gentle stain removal" - for whatever that means.

Either way, doing this once or twice over the lifetime of a horn is not going to be detrimental to it in any way - it will give things a good cleaning, much like we get when we brush our teeth daily, but will fall far short of removing enough material to be harmful.
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JayKosta
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

trickg wrote:

:o I recommend AGAINST using a green Scotchbrite pad.

--------------------------------
Thanks for the info about Scotchbrite pads.

I also like mechanical wristwatches, and metal bands - my favorite is a yellow Acutron mesh bracelet that I have on a Tissot manual wind. It seems like that bracelet is now somewhat of a rarity. I bought it cheap at a jewelry store sidewalk sale, probably back the the mid-70's.
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PLAY the next note 'on time' and 'in rhythm'.
Oh ya, watch the conductor - they set what is 'on time'.
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trickg
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JayKosta wrote:
trickg wrote:

I recommend AGAINST using a green Scotchbrite pad.

--------------------------------
Thanks for the info about Scotchbrite pads.

I also like mechanical wristwatches, and metal bands - my favorite is a yellow Acutron mesh bracelet that I have on a Tissot manual wind. It seems like that bracelet is now somewhat of a rarity. I bought it cheap at a jewelry store sidewalk sale, probably back the the mid-70's.

NICE! I love watches, but I don't spend a ton on them. My nicest most expensive watch (I think I caught a deal at just under $400) is a Tissot Luxury Powermatic 80. At some point I'll put a really luxurious strap on it but right now it just has the embossed leather fake crocodile strap on it, which is fine.


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"95% of the average 'weekend warrior's' problems will be solved by an additional 30 minutes of insightful practice." - PLP
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JayKosta
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's picture of my Tissot with the Acutron bracelet. Watch was a birthday gift to me back in the mid-60's.
Watch is manual wind, time only

http://users.hancock.net/jkosta/Jays_Tissot_small.jpg
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PLAY the next note 'on time' and 'in rhythm'.
Oh ya, watch the conductor - they set what is 'on time'.
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Divitt Trumpets
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

trickg wrote:

Let's look at something else. Stainless steel is roughly the same hardness as tooth enamel, and monel is harder than stainless steel.


Monel softens when made in to a piston because of the brazing of the port liners.

The wear we see in loose valves is typically in the casing, not the piston because the harder piston metal wears the casing. Toothpaste is removing material from the casing more than it is the piston.
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LittleRusty
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JayKosta wrote:
trickg wrote:

I recommend AGAINST using a green Scotchbrite pad.

--------------------------------
Thanks for the info about Scotchbrite pads.

They make scotch pads that might work. I have used some that are used after finishing up sanding.

But I agree that the green kitchen ones are not something I would try. 🤷‍♂️
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