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chapahi Heavyweight Member
Joined: 13 Sep 2005 Posts: 1465 Location: Stuttgart, Germany
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Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 8:59 am Post subject: |
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DoubleEagle wrote: | I have ordered some new springs for my 38A in hopes that they will help the bounce issue, but I'm not sure I can put them in. I showed the horn to a tech today who was unable to remove the valve stem, and it may be difficult to reassemble the valve if you pop the spring clip at the top. I'm trying some Hetman Classic to see if slightly thicker oil might make the valves less bouncy. |
I had a bounce issue with my Conn 38b from around 1968. It was easy for a tech to tighten the springs and make that problem go away. The other problem was a rickety feeling with the valves. I never had that fixed. I heard it was typical of old Conns. I got used to holding the horn and fingering at a precise angle. I bet someone like Bob Reeves or Charlie Melk could fix that. On another vintage horn Bob Reeves fixed a problem with the valves for free when I got a PVA. Hetman's #3 is great valve oil. _________________ Sima, Kanstul 1525 Flugel and Kanstul pocket trumpet. Olds Super |
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DoubleEagle Regular Member
Joined: 28 Aug 2015 Posts: 95 Location: Twin Cities, Minnesota
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Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 9:57 am Post subject: |
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How do I contact Charlie or Bob? I should at least know what that is gonna cost. The Hetman's makes it a little better but doesn't solve the problem. I've been paying attention to the way I play, and apparently I sometimes lift my middle finger off the button slightly at the end of a fast passage. If that happens on the second valve on this horn, it bounces. Not so much in the middle of a passage, but like when I rip off a G major scale - the top G blurbles. I don't know if I can change that in my technique. It's pretty subtle. _________________ Benge CG, Early '70s Selmer piccolo, Early '80s Selmer piccolo, Conn 12A cornet, Conn 38A cornet, Conn 48A Connqueror "Vocabell", Conn Connquest 76A cornet, Conn Director 17A Coprion cornet, Conn Director 15A cornet, '50 Olds valve/slide trombone |
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Bflatman Heavyweight Member
Joined: 01 Nov 2016 Posts: 720
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Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 9:35 am Post subject: |
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The valves on the 38a need some consideration.
First of all they are bottom sprung crysteel valves, according to the conn loyalist site.
Bottom sprung crusteel valves have a a collar at the top that is fixed and unmoving, there is a pin that hangs down and serves for holding the valve aligned.
There is a very large cork sitting on top of the valve and this cork has a slot that allows the pin to be free and the cork does not touch the pin.
The pin sits in a hole in the valve and as the valve goes up and down the pin slides into and exits the valve. This changes the amount of air in the valve and a vent hole on valves was created on crysteel valves prior to 1950, this vent hole was dispensed with in later instruments. This vent hole was intended to prevent valve bounce due to air pressure changes in the valve.
Where a vent hole exists it will be on the top of the valve opposite to the pin registration hole and is the smaller of the two.
If the cork is wrongly cut flat it will cover and seal this vent hole. This may be the problem you have. The cork must have a bevel cut into it that stops the cork covering the vent hole.
Later instruments with no vented valves simply have a flat cork because a bevel is not required.
Look at the top of the valve does it have two holes in it or one. If it has two holes then the cork must be bevelled or the cork is cut wrong. A bevel can be easily cut in the cork with a blade to rectify this.
The other cause of bouncy valves is springs that are too weak, they are not strong enough to hold the valve strongly in the up position.
Oddly if the valve were too heavy, even good springs would be bouncy as the springs must hold the valves up against gravity to stop them bouncing. Lighter valves allow lighter springs. |
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DoubleEagle Regular Member
Joined: 28 Aug 2015 Posts: 95 Location: Twin Cities, Minnesota
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Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 1:15 pm Post subject: |
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This horn was made in 1965 and has the later version of valve with a relatively thin cork (as opposed to the more barrel shaped one) and a similarly sized felt washer. As I mentioned, I have ordered springs, but I'm not sure how to replace them since the valve stem is pretty well stuck and I'd rather not snap it off trying to get it out, at least until I can find some replacements in case that happens. Doing that turns the horn into a scrap parts horn if I can't find or have one made.
The alternative to removing the stem is to pop the retaining spring clip that hides under the felt and cork washers, hope it doesn't fly somewhere, replace the spring, and try to reassemble. But the clip is below the rim of the metal barrel and may require a special tool to reinstall. _________________ Benge CG, Early '70s Selmer piccolo, Early '80s Selmer piccolo, Conn 12A cornet, Conn 38A cornet, Conn 48A Connqueror "Vocabell", Conn Connquest 76A cornet, Conn Director 17A Coprion cornet, Conn Director 15A cornet, '50 Olds valve/slide trombone |
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chapahi Heavyweight Member
Joined: 13 Sep 2005 Posts: 1465 Location: Stuttgart, Germany
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Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 2:22 am Post subject: |
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DoubleEagle wrote: | How do I contact Charlie or Bob? I should at least know what that is gonna cost. |
Bob Reeves is easy to get in touch with.
bobreeves.com
He fixed my Conn12a when he aligned the valves. I had tried Kanstul first but they said I needed to order a part from Conn and it seemed complicated so I tried Bob Reeves and he machined a new part. _________________ Sima, Kanstul 1525 Flugel and Kanstul pocket trumpet. Olds Super |
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connicalman Heavyweight Member
Joined: 17 Dec 2007 Posts: 1668 Location: West Medford, MA
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Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2017 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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Dale Proctor wrote: | A vent is a tiny hole drilled into the side of a valve that aligns with one leg of the valve slide when the valve isn't depressed, but is sealed against the blank side of the valve case when the valve is used. It equalizes the pressure in the closed slide tubing and the atmosphere. It's mainly done to eliminate low and high pressures in the valve tubing when moving slides in and out to aid intonation while playing. | y
What he said, which is also very useful when using the 3rd slide. _________________ kochaavim, csillaagkep, αστερρισμός, konnstelacji, connstellation... ...a.k.a. the 28A!
Other Conns: Victor 5A & 38A, New Wonder & 80A; 'stella 38A; 36A; 'quest 76A... |
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connicalman Heavyweight Member
Joined: 17 Dec 2007 Posts: 1668 Location: West Medford, MA
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Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2017 5:34 pm Post subject: |
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DoubleEagle wrote: | Hey connicalman - You said, "But attend to the springs, corks and pads to reduce the 'bounce' as much as possible."
I just bought a 38A Connstellation, and am having a bounce issue on the 2nd valve. What advice do you have? |
Allow me to plug for Osmun Music, where James Becker did a PVA on a 28A, Conn's small-bore long cornet. In doing so the felts and corks were replaced by stop-rings and long-lasting dense rubber. No more bounce in the middle, and a better feel at the both ends, too.
For anyone with a small-bore horn, the PVA will improve scale intonation and consistency. For your large-bore 38A cousin, related to both that longer Connstellation and the 5/9/77A short models, the PVA is less of a priority but the PVA parts might well solve the bounce.
J Notso has good points about the capacity of the pistons & block. IDK what his tech might have worked by way of magic between the caps. _________________ kochaavim, csillaagkep, αστερρισμός, konnstelacji, connstellation... ...a.k.a. the 28A!
Other Conns: Victor 5A & 38A, New Wonder & 80A; 'stella 38A; 36A; 'quest 76A... |
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ConnArtist Heavyweight Member
Joined: 20 Mar 2008 Posts: 2831 Location: La-la Land (corner of 13th and 13th)
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Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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nieuwguyski wrote: | I bought a rather battered 5A a few years before they became all the rage. At the time, I was looking for an affordable horn that played well and could get loud as all heck to take on a tour with a "hard-core" (which is to say, "very loud and very fast") polka band.
By the end of the tour, the 5A was my new best friend.
Looking at the unusual wrap, I had an inspiration. In my defense, the bell had a nasty section where it had obviously been somewhat Dizzy-belled after the last bell brace and then roughly straightened out. The brass looked work-hardened to the point of near cracking, and I imagined the worst if more repair work was attempted. So I researched getting a new bell made for the horn, and one thing led to another...
http://dqscustomshop.com/Custom_Trumpets/conn-victor-5a-cornet/
Michael made an excellent repair on the original bell, and I end up playing it more often with the original brass bell than with the beadless copper bell, but it's a pleasure to play in either configuration. |
Does it play the same as before? I wonder what effects the extra mounting hardware might have on intonation, slotting, etc.
My 5A is so nimble, and easy to play in high register that I'd be afraid to mess with it! _________________ "Stomvi" PhrankenPhlugel w/ Blessing copper bell
1958 Conn 18A cornet
1962 Conn 9A cornet (yes, the Unicorn )
Reynolds Onyx cornet
c. 1955? Besson 10-10 trumpet
1939 Martin Imperial Handcraft “Model 37”
1986 Bach Strad 37 ML |
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Richard III Heavyweight Member
Joined: 22 May 2007 Posts: 2654 Location: Anacortes, WA
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Posted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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Hi All,
I just got my new Conn 5A today. Really different structure. Very short and heavy cornet. It's in very good condition. Compression is great. No dents. I have two 80A's. I have a Connquest 77A cornet. Not my first Conn. Bores big and small. This seems huge. I read that it felt smaller than an 80A. In my case it is the exact opposite. And the effect that the bell is so close makes it very loud. I have not recorded it yet. Intonation is very good. I used my usual mouthpiece. Upper range is odd. Almost unstable feeling. Weird. I'm not saying it is a reject yet. Stuff to try and think about. _________________ Richard
King 1130 Flugabone
King 12C mouthpiece |
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Dale Proctor Heavyweight Member
Joined: 26 May 2005 Posts: 9345 Location: Heart of Dixie
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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 5:31 am Post subject: |
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Give it a good trial. They play differently from a lot of instruments, but once you get in the groove with one, they're hard to beat. For me, the upper register is significantly easier than on many cornets. Yes, they are heavy, and can generate a great volume of sound. Intonation is very good, too. Of course, ultimately, the horn has to be a match for you. _________________ "Brass bands are all very well in their place - outdoors and several miles away ." - Sir Thomas Beecham |
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GeorgeB Heavyweight Member
Joined: 20 Apr 2016 Posts: 1063 Location: New Glasgow, Nova Scotia
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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 6:07 am Post subject: |
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Dale is correct, you have to give it time. Both my pro trumpets have medium large bores and the larger bore on the 5A is a different kettle of fish. Everything about it is different. But man, what a sound when you get it right. _________________ GeorgeB
1960s King Super 20 Silversonic
2016 Manchester Brass Custom
1938-39 Olds Recording
1942 Buescher 400 Bb trumpet
1952 Selmer Paris 21 B
1999 Conn Vintage One B flat trumpet
2020 Getzen 490 Bb
1962 Conn Victor 5A cornet |
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Richard III Heavyweight Member
Joined: 22 May 2007 Posts: 2654 Location: Anacortes, WA
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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 7:10 am Post subject: |
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It is one thing I was really looking for and that is intonation. So far none of the quirks of my other cornets. I've learned to compensate with so many others it might be part of the issue with this one. I'll play with some different mouthpieces today and see if that solidifies the upper range.
Also, as others have noted, the valves are bouncy. Not a big deal to me. _________________ Richard
King 1130 Flugabone
King 12C mouthpiece |
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Dale Proctor Heavyweight Member
Joined: 26 May 2005 Posts: 9345 Location: Heart of Dixie
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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 8:54 am Post subject: |
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Yes, once you get used to the 5A, you'll discover that you can just play every note (except for the usual suspects like low D and C#) straight down the middle and it's in tune. I've found that it's best when the 1st valve slide is pulled out a tiny bit, maybe 1/8". Mine works especially well with a Curry 3BBC., a Wick 4, and a Bach 3, which cover most of the bases for me. Of course, you can stick a Bach 10-1/2C in it and sound like a trumpet, but that's not what these cornets are for. _________________ "Brass bands are all very well in their place - outdoors and several miles away ." - Sir Thomas Beecham |
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Dale Proctor Heavyweight Member
Joined: 26 May 2005 Posts: 9345 Location: Heart of Dixie
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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 8:57 am Post subject: |
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GeorgeB wrote: | Dale is correct, you have to give it time. Both my pro trumpets have medium large bores and the larger bore on the 5A is a different kettle of fish. Everything about it is different. But man, what a sound when you get it right. |
So George, since you started this thread, what are your impressions of the 5A so far? _________________ "Brass bands are all very well in their place - outdoors and several miles away ." - Sir Thomas Beecham |
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Richard III Heavyweight Member
Joined: 22 May 2007 Posts: 2654 Location: Anacortes, WA
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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:18 pm Post subject: |
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Dale Proctor wrote: | Yes, once you get used to the 5A, you'll discover that you can just play every note (except for the usual suspects like low D and C#) straight down the middle and it's in tune. I've found that it's best when the 1st valve slide is pulled out a tiny bit, maybe 1/8". Mine works especially well with a Curry 3BBC., a Wick 4, and a Bach 3, which cover most of the bases for me. Of course, you can stick a Bach 10-1/2C in it and sound like a trumpet, but that's not what these cornets are for. |
I spent a bunch more time today playing the new cornet. I also took a look at the alignment of the valves. They are obviously not where they should be. I have to wait two weeks until I can get them fixed. I'm hoping that fixes the squirrely nature of the horn above the staff.
I recorded it a bunch comparing to what I've been playing. I can see that it fills in some of the middle to higher overtones. The result of that is that there is less of the feeling on the recordings that a horn sounds flat on some notes. _________________ Richard
King 1130 Flugabone
King 12C mouthpiece |
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GeorgeB Heavyweight Member
Joined: 20 Apr 2016 Posts: 1063 Location: New Glasgow, Nova Scotia
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Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 3:51 am Post subject: |
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Dale Proctor wrote: | So George, since you started this thread, what are your impressions of the 5A so far? |
It is a great horn, Dale, but the cup of the Bach 5C mp I'm using is too shallow and I am sure I can get a better tone with a deeper cup ( one is on the way ).
I'll tell you, though, this is a honey above the staff. I am not a high range player, and though I play scales that include high C daily, my comfort level is around an A and I have no trouble getting there and playing there cleanly with the 5A. It is pretty much an over all match with my vintage 1952 Selmer Paris trumpet, except the smaller bore on the Selmer makes it an easier blow. However, each of these horns has its own unique sound. _________________ GeorgeB
1960s King Super 20 Silversonic
2016 Manchester Brass Custom
1938-39 Olds Recording
1942 Buescher 400 Bb trumpet
1952 Selmer Paris 21 B
1999 Conn Vintage One B flat trumpet
2020 Getzen 490 Bb
1962 Conn Victor 5A cornet |
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