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mrhappy Veteran Member
Joined: 03 Dec 2018 Posts: 371 Location: Port Jackson, NY
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Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 1:26 pm Post subject: Best Oil For New Horn- Tight Valves? |
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Hey Kids... Short Version: Picked up a 'new' horn with tight valves that plays fine with NO oil but when I use Al Cass Fast the valves hang up on return. What do you recommend? Would Hetman's 1 be a good choice??
Long Version: ... Picked up a DEG Signature (L.A version) that was NOS with a valve issue... Cleaned it out, etc... oiled it up and the 1st valve was hanging on the return. Brought it to a repair person who checked it out and said that the valve was a bit out of round. She sorted that out and tweaked up the rest of the horn/ slides/ felts. I picked it up at the shop and it felt GREAT and the valves seemed to work fine. She cleaned the horn but didn't oil the valves as she didn't know what oil I was using, recommending Hetman's 1 for the tight valve fit. Since I've been using Al Cass Fast on my other horns, I opted to stay with that.
Got home, oiled it up and the valve was now hanging up again! I pulled the valves and wiped off all the oil and also cleaned out the casing and lo and behold, the horn was playing fine with NO oil!!
So does Hetman's 1 seem like a good choice for these tight valves or is there something else I should try? Have been thinking about going synthetic anyway.
_________________ MH |
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Croquethed Heavyweight Member
Joined: 19 Dec 2013 Posts: 614 Location: Oakville, CT
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Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 1:37 pm Post subject: |
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Monster Doc's Juice is killer good for tight valves (2013 Getzen 900). |
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JayKosta Heavyweight Member
Joined: 24 Dec 2018 Posts: 3303 Location: Endwell NY USA
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Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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My guess is that there isn't any type of valve oil will work, in the present condition.
To me it seems that -
1) there's still a small irregularity causing an area of 'extra small' clearance between the piston and the case.
2) the film thickness of the Cass oil is enough to make the #1 issue cause a 'sticking point'.
3) I doubt there's an oil that is 'light' enough to prevent sticking, and still provide useful lubrication.
If it were me (an OCD DIY'er), I'd remove the oil from the piston and casing, and then use 'magic marker' on the full area of the piston. Then carefully install the piston and do a few strokes. Remove the piston and try to see where the marker has rubbed off.
If a specific 'rub area' can be found, then return to the tech for a little 'attention'. Maybe 'spot lapping', or 'burnishing'. The marker on the piston can be removed with isopropl alcohol.
Jay _________________ Most Important Note ? - the next one !
KNOW (see) what the next note is BEFORE you have to play it.
PLAY the next note 'on time' and 'in rhythm'.
Oh ya, watch the conductor - they set what is 'on time'. |
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zaferis Heavyweight Member
Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Posts: 2327 Location: Beavercreek, OH
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Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 2:33 pm Post subject: |
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Sounds to me like the valves, especially the first valve, is not close tolerance but rough, worn or misshaped. If it works at all being dry/no oil the clearance is not what is should be.
With funky valves, you can try various oils, and you may find one that works well - try thicker, regular and thinner - i.e. Ultra Pure has 3 viscosities of valve oil..
If you're looking for pure speed.. Blue Juice, Tromba T2 or "Fast". Yamaha Pro Synthetic..
BUT in my experiece funky, inconsistent valves don't gernerally or magically get better with one oil vs. another.
I suggest you get the valves worked on by someone that knows valves: Osmun Music, Dr Valve.. etc... _________________ Freelance Performer/Educator
Adjunct Professor
Bach Trumpet Endorsing Artist
Retired Air Force Bandsman |
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mrhappy Veteran Member
Joined: 03 Dec 2018 Posts: 371 Location: Port Jackson, NY
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Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 3:14 pm Post subject: |
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zaferis wrote: |
I suggest you get the valves worked on by someone that knows valves: Osmun Music, Dr Valve.. etc... |
That might be what happens... I have to pick up another horn at the place tomorrow so I'll see what they say.. _________________ MH |
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Brad361 Heavyweight Member
Joined: 16 Dec 2007 Posts: 7080 Location: Houston, TX.
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Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 3:53 pm Post subject: |
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zaferis wrote: | Sounds to me like the valves, especially the first valve, is not close tolerance but rough, worn or misshaped. If it works at all being dry/no oil the clearance is not what is should be.
With funky valves, you can try various oils, and you may find one that works well - try thicker, regular and thinner - i.e. Ultra Pure has 3 viscosities of valve oil..
If you're looking for pure speed.. Blue Juice, Tromba T2 or "Fast". Yamaha Pro Synthetic..
BUT in my experiece funky, inconsistent valves don't gernerally or magically get better with one oil vs. another.
I suggest you get the valves worked on by someone that knows valves: Osmun Music, Dr Valve.. etc... |
This. With few exceptions, trying different oils with any horn I have had with a wonky valve or valves has ended up with my either sending it to someone like Doctor Valve, or getting rid of the horn.
Brad _________________ When asked if he always sounds great:
"I always try, but not always, because the horn is merciless, unpredictable and traitorous." - Arturo Sandoval |
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mrhappy Veteran Member
Joined: 03 Dec 2018 Posts: 371 Location: Port Jackson, NY
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Posted: Sat Jun 22, 2019 10:44 pm Post subject: |
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premature update. _________________ MH |
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scottfsmith Veteran Member
Joined: 27 Jun 2015 Posts: 474 Location: Maryland
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2019 11:07 am Post subject: |
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I have fixed several such cases by just playing them in. If it is too annoying to play just grab the horn the next time you are watching TV and fiddle with the valves for an hour or whatever. Since you are not making sound you can also press while rotated which can help round things out. Some valves also can work through the bottom, another way to smooth off those bad spots. You can also push the stem on one side while depressing to send the valve in at an imperceptible angle. Sometimes you can find out one side push point causes it to stick more so just repeat 100x on that point.
If it is too much off this will take forever so there is no guarantee. _________________ Thane Standard Large Bb / Monette Unity B6-7M mpc
Lots of vintage trumpets and mouthpieces |
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Tpt_Guy Heavyweight Member
Joined: 16 Jul 2004 Posts: 1102 Location: Sacramento, Ca
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2019 12:00 pm Post subject: |
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JayKosta wrote: |
If it were me (an OCD DIY'er), I'd remove the oil from the piston and casing, and then use 'magic marker' on the full area of the piston. Then carefully install the piston and do a few strokes. Remove the piston and try to see where the marker has rubbed off.
If a specific 'rub area' can be found, then return to the tech for a little 'attention'. Maybe 'spot lapping', or 'burnishing'. The marker on the piston can be removed with isopropl alcohol.
Jay |
You mean a Magic Eraser.
A magic marker is a childrens coloring pen. _________________ -Tom Hall-
"A good teacher protects his pupils from his own influence."
-Bruce Lee |
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LittleRusty Heavyweight Member
Joined: 11 Aug 2004 Posts: 12663 Location: Gardena, Ca
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2019 12:34 pm Post subject: |
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Tpt_Guy wrote: | JayKosta wrote: |
If it were me (an OCD DIY'er), I'd remove the oil from the piston and casing, and then use 'magic marker' on the full area of the piston. Then carefully install the piston and do a few strokes. Remove the piston and try to see where the marker has rubbed off.
If a specific 'rub area' can be found, then return to the tech for a little 'attention'. Maybe 'spot lapping', or 'burnishing'. The marker on the piston can be removed with isopropl alcohol.
Jay |
You mean a Magic Eraser.
A magic marker is a childrens coloring pen. |
A “magic marker” is a felt tip device that is used to mark with ink. Invented by Sidney Rosenthal in 1952.
A “magic eraser” is a sponge with Mr. Clean on the packaging.
In the OP’s case the marker, not sponge, is used to color the piston. Then when the piston is installed the ink on the high spot(s) are removed by the contact between the piston and casing. |
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Tpt_Guy Heavyweight Member
Joined: 16 Jul 2004 Posts: 1102 Location: Sacramento, Ca
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2019 1:07 pm Post subject: |
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LittleRusty wrote: | Tpt_Guy wrote: | JayKosta wrote: |
If it were me (an OCD DIY'er), I'd remove the oil from the piston and casing, and then use 'magic marker' on the full area of the piston. Then carefully install the piston and do a few strokes. Remove the piston and try to see where the marker has rubbed off.
If a specific 'rub area' can be found, then return to the tech for a little 'attention'. Maybe 'spot lapping', or 'burnishing'. The marker on the piston can be removed with isopropl alcohol.
Jay |
You mean a Magic Eraser.
A magic marker is a childrens coloring pen. |
A “magic marker” is a felt tip device that is used to mark with ink. Invented by Sidney Rosenthal in 1952.
A “magic eraser” is a sponge with Mr. Clean on the packaging.
In the OP’s case the marker, not sponge, is used to color the piston. Then when the piston is installed the ink on the high spot(s) are removed by the contact between the piston and casing. |
HAHA! Yea...
Let this be a lesson in checking TH while busy at work and not having enough attention/time to read entire posts before responding.
I'll sit in the corner now... _________________ -Tom Hall-
"A good teacher protects his pupils from his own influence."
-Bruce Lee |
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LittleRusty Heavyweight Member
Joined: 11 Aug 2004 Posts: 12663 Location: Gardena, Ca
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2019 3:38 pm Post subject: |
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I was thinking you interpreted that he was recommending cleaning. |
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Tpt_Guy Heavyweight Member
Joined: 16 Jul 2004 Posts: 1102 Location: Sacramento, Ca
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2019 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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LittleRusty wrote: | I was thinking you interpreted that he was recommending cleaning. |
No, I totally got it wrong.
But that's fine. Live and learn. _________________ -Tom Hall-
"A good teacher protects his pupils from his own influence."
-Bruce Lee |
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mrhappy Veteran Member
Joined: 03 Dec 2018 Posts: 371 Location: Port Jackson, NY
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2019 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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scottfsmith wrote: | I have fixed several such cases by just playing them in. |
Well... It's kinda funny as that's what I'm trying as I read your reply... hoping they need some break-in time!
I picked up the horn from the shop and it was playing fine, after the old oil was cleaned out and the Hetman's 1 applied in its place. I was playing it for a half hour or so and enjoying my 'working' valves and even made a gleeful post stating as much ( knowing full well that I was jinxing myself)... within a minute afterward the valves starting faltering again with a sluggish return so I deleted the post to investigate further.
I'll probably monkey around with a few things to see if I can't get them to start playing nice before I resort to a trip to Osmun or Dr.Valve or whoever. I kinda like the horn otherwise so if it comes to that... so be it!
Thanks for the replies so far and I'll keep you updated! _________________ MH |
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