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iiipopes
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Joined: 29 Jun 2015
Posts: 549
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 Posted: Sun Apr 16, 2023 7:08 am Post subject: Modifying 1st Valve Trigger on a Globe Stamp 921 |
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Has anyone modified the first valve trigger on a Globe Stamp 921 to make it easier to play with the left hand? I just can't make it work with my right hand as the trigger appears to be designed for, as indicated by the offset of the trigger and the wear on the nickel plating on the right edge of the trigger on mine (yes, my 921 is lacquered, not silver plated, with nickel plated triggers). My left wrist doesn't like it when I pronate to get the left thumb over to the trigger. Any and all help and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.
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King Super 20 Trumpet; Sov 921 Cornet
Bach cornet modded to be a 181L clone
Couesnon Flugelhorn and C trumpet |
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oxleyk
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Joined: 12 Apr 2006
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| Posted: Sun Apr 16, 2023 7:51 am Post subject: |
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I had a similar problem with my Bach 181. The lever does appear to be designed for the right thumb but I always used the left. Since I didn't use the trigger very much I decided to remove it entirely. Problem solved.
In my experience most of the tuning adjustments are with the third slide anyway.
Kent |
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sd4f
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Joined: 30 Dec 2009
Posts: 102
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Sun Apr 16, 2023 12:51 pm Post subject: |
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I fortunately got issued with a 920 which still had a more normal trigger. I sort of did wonder why they went with that design. First valve trigger is too useful to ignore, so you really do want it ergonomic.
With that said, in order to modify, there are two approaches I'm thinking of:
1. Make a paddle which non-permanently attaches to the trigger, giving you a point of contact where you want it. Something which slides over the existing trigger, but has width to bring it to the left.
2. Redo it. I personally think, if you'd go to the effort of modifying the existing one, by cutting off the paddle and reattaching it differently, for instance, it would be no significant extra work to just make a new part, and you could go to a jeweller to silver plate it as well.
It appears that were made out of a flat piece, and just needs to be bent the other way around, alternatively, have a central paddle brazed (or even just soldered) on instead. A little bit of tube would also need to be attached. The pieces could easily be made with no more than a junior hack saw and some files, as long as you have appropriate pieces of brass. |
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iiipopes
Heavyweight Member
Joined: 29 Jun 2015
Posts: 549
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| Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2023 5:24 pm Post subject: |
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| sd4f wrote: | I fortunately got issued with a 920 which still had a more normal trigger. I sort of did wonder why they went with that design. First valve trigger is too useful to ignore, so you really do want it ergonomic.
With that said, in order to modify, there are two approaches I'm thinking of:
1. Make a paddle which non-permanently attaches to the trigger, giving you a point of contact where you want it. Something which slides over the existing trigger, but has width to bring it to the left.
2. Redo it. I personally think, if you'd go to the effort of modifying the existing one, by cutting off the paddle and reattaching it differently, for instance, it would be no significant extra work to just make a new part, and you could go to a jeweller to silver plate it as well.
It appears that were made out of a flat piece, and just needs to be bent the other way around, alternatively, have a central paddle brazed (or even just soldered) on instead. A little bit of tube would also need to be attached. The pieces could easily be made with no more than a junior hack saw and some files, as long as you have appropriate pieces of brass. |
Thanks for the suggestions. They got me to thinking. Since you have a 920, I would like your opinion on this alternative: since Dawkes had 920 first valve triggers listed so inexpensively, I bought two triggers with which to experiment. It appears the small bolt that holds the 921 trigger on the bracket soldered to the first valve casing will fit through the fulcrum of the 920 trigger. If not, the bore can be enlarged slightly with small numbered machine bit. The tail is, of course, curved on a 920 trigger. But If you picture the tail being straightened out, it looks like it is almost as long from the fulcrum to the threaded end of the tail as a 921 trigger. I'm thinking about straightening out the tail of the 920 trigger, mounting it on the fulcrum, drilling the rivet that holds the current 921 trigger to the actuator bar of the first valve slide, enlarge the hole if necessary, and thread a screw through the bar into the threaded hole in the tail of the trigger. I'm almost positive, without trying it first, that the threads of the screw which holds the actuator bar on the valve slide will be the same threads, if for no other reason than why would Besson make different sizes at that time? If I ever want to reverse it, it is only a matter of one rivet. Thanks again for your comments.
To distinguish a point above, a lesson learned from Harry James: set the third valve slide long for 2+3 valve combination notes. To that I add and slightly refine 1+2 and 1+3 with a sight trigger squeeze on the first valve solving everything. If I ever need to use 3rd valve alone, say, for a trill fingering, I can always pull it back in. But I usually never have to. I started doing this decades ago on my King Super 20 trumpet, which has a two-section third valve slide. I never knew the purpose of making the third valve slide two sections until I saw a close-up of Harry James playing his Super 20.
_________________
King Super 20 Trumpet; Sov 921 Cornet
Bach cornet modded to be a 181L clone
Couesnon Flugelhorn and C trumpet |
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