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Replating my Callet Sima in silver plate vs lacquer?



 
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Qnaza
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Joined: 04 Mar 2008
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2020 9:20 am    Post subject: Replating my Callet Sima in silver plate vs lacquer? Reply with quote

Hello all

I have and very much enjoy a laquered Callet Sima Bb and I'm thinking of replating it to give it a new lease on life.

Do I go for a relaquering or silver plating? I'm already biased since I prefer the look of silver plate, so I want some objective views based on people's epxeriences. Has anyone played a Callet Sima silver and lacquer side-by-side who could tell me how they found them?

Thanks for any help or tips.
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falado
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Joined: 05 Mar 2009
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Location: Eastern NC

PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2020 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, I'm not trying to be funny, but I do have a couple solutions. First, I had a SIMA in silver plate and found the horn just too bright for my taste and playing. It was very directional and laser like too. Silver plating this horn is going to involve buffing and already light bell and body, that means taking some metal off the horn and shining before plating. The horn is already pretty bright playing. So, why not strip the lacquer and try it in raw brass?

Another solution, Kanstul, who made the horn, is gone so getting a lead pipe may be hard, although I think it's a copy of a Besson pipe. So, why not sell the horn and buy one already in silver plated?

Just some thoughts, Dave
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FA LA DO (Ab: V/ii) MUCS, USN (Ret.)
Stomvi VR (Reeves) with VR II Bell
Stomvi Forte Pocket
Bach 239 25A C, Blueprinted
Kanstul Flugel
Getzen 4 valve Pic.
Yamaha D/Eb
Besson Cornet
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kehaulani
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Joined: 23 Mar 2003
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Location: Hawai'i - Texas

PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2020 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wouldn't re-lacquering the horn add back some volume vs. leaving it unlacquered?
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"Even if I could play like Wynton Marsalis, I wouldn't play like Wynton Marsalis."
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falado
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Joined: 05 Mar 2009
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Location: Eastern NC

PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2020 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kehaulani wrote:
Wouldn't re-lacquering the horn add back some volume vs. leaving it unlacquered?

Don't know, but re-lacquering will also involve buffing, hence removing metal and making the bell and other parts thinner and possibly making the horn brighter. Years ago my favorite go to horn was a Lawler TL in raw brass. I felt like I could just feel the notes vibrate in my hands. I loved the way the horn played and felt. After a few years of playing I decided to send it to Roy to get some tweaking and a PVA. I noticed he was offering a scratch lacquer finish for $175 so I figured, what the heck? When I got the horn back it was dead in my hands, the feedback was greatly different and it just didn't zing or have the sound it had before. Sure, I could have sent it back or stripped it, but just didn't care for the horn anymore. I went back to my VR. In retrospect, I should have called Roy and figured out the problem, but money at that point would have been an issue. I've had raw brass horns sense and still like them. I also had a raw brass Bach I should have kept, but oh well.

Back then I could only afford one horn at a time. I think weather you do raw brass, silver plate or gold plate is personal preference. My present horns are a Stomvi (Reeves) VR with VR II Bell and is a great player and my go to. A Schilke S42HD in raw brass and another great playing horn, and a Stomvi Forte pocket in silver that also plays great and all have their place in my arsenal. Oops, for got to mention the Getzen pic in lacquer, Kanstul flugelhorn and Yamaha D/Eb (both silver).

It's up to you, what you can afford and what plays best for you. I never cared about the asthetics of the horn, but how well it played, the finish is secondary to me.

Dave
_________________
FA LA DO (Ab: V/ii) MUCS, USN (Ret.)
Stomvi VR (Reeves) with VR II Bell
Stomvi Forte Pocket
Bach 239 25A C, Blueprinted
Kanstul Flugel
Getzen 4 valve Pic.
Yamaha D/Eb
Besson Cornet
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Qnaza
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Joined: 04 Mar 2008
Posts: 335

PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2020 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the input. The guy I would use, Will Spencer, here in the UK, is a marvel with instruments, and the lacquer is removed by acid bath, not abrasion, after which he'd remove all the bumps and such to get a perfectly smooth finish, then a buff, and relaquer/plate.

Can't see much material being removed in the process.
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Ed Kennedy
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Joined: 15 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2020 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buffing, if done correctly, should be minimal. On horns that do not required cutting out pits and scratches, a milder compound can be used, followed by soft wheel "coloring" using jewelers rouge and a soft wheel. I'd recommend Rich Ita, Charlie Melk or Steve "Dr. Valve" Winans. RicK Morovic, retired Schilke foreman, is also doing some work. These guys are all meticulous.
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hibidogrulez
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Joined: 25 Jun 2020
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 1:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I asked the same thing about my Olds Recording and the general consensus was: "if the horn sounds great, don't touch it. The raw brass/partial lacquer can withstand the elements just fine as long as you keep it clean and dry."

I'll admit I'd still like to give it a fresh look, as I'll be playing it for the rest of my life, but I'm SOOOO anxious to mess up the sound qualities it currently has that I don't dare to.
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"Everything I write is purely based on my own personal experiences, as those are the only ones I've got."
Tpts: Olds Recording 1970, Getzen 700 Special
Mpcs: BestBrass 7e, Stomvi Valencia 1c, Vincent Bach 1/4c
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