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Ridiculous bore question: make big bold C trumpet small


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Riojazz
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2023 1:52 pm    Post subject: Ridiculous bore question: make big bold C trumpet small Reply with quote

OK, if I'm asking for nonsense, you'll get a good laugh.

Many years ago I needed a C trumpet quickly and bought a very early Shires in New York City. Not many choices at the time. Now, I do love the horn; it sounds and plays wonderfully.

Three years ago I toured the Shires factory, tried tons of horns, and chose my Bb Destino III, medium bore. It's the smallest bore in that style.

I'm older now and for my small church, I would rather have a C trumpet that doesn't take so much to fill and sound so much like the big beast that it can be.

Is there a modification that will somehow tame my huge bore C and make it play more like a smaller bore horn? Go ahead and laugh; what do I know? Thanks.
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Divitt Trumpets
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2023 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Changing the bracing can change things. Adding weight. Adjusting the gap. Adjusting venturi.
These are all more easily and more effective than changing the bore.
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Riojazz
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2023 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most interesting. I did not think those changes would have so much effect. Thank you.
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Andy Cooper
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2023 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check with Shires about the possibility of a tuning slide with a smaller inside diameter.
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Goby
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2023 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Venturi (leadpipe opening diameter) is king when it comes to determining the way a horn feels. If you are insistent on modifying the trumpet, replacing the leadpipe is probably the easiest solution, especially if you can order one from Shires set up like your Destino. From their website, most of their C trumpet leadpipes have venturis that measure between .349" and .351", which is reasonably large for a Bach-style instrument. I would recommend that you ask for a .345" C trumpet leadpipe, which should be the same as your Destino.


Beyond the leadpipe venturi, the next parameter to change would be the mouthpiece, but that is a topic for a different post.
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JonathanM
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2023 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy Cooper wrote:
Check with Shires about the possibility of a tuning slide with a smaller inside diameter.


I think this would be the simplest and cheapest way to alter the blow of a large bore. It's not uncommon, either; Bach did it years ago with his Vindabonna. Plus it would still be an easy horn to sell if you choose - and more so with the tuning slide.

I've got 5 aftermarket tuning slides for Strad's by M/K and one by Blackburn... You can go radial or square, bronze, sterling-silver, nickel-silver - and they all make a difference in the feel of the blow and the sound. In some cases, it can be a remarkable change. If you went with a square bronze slide, for instance, your blow would have a bit more resistance and the tone would darken somewhat. If the bore of the tuning slide varied some, like from .462 down to .450 or so, you'd feel like your playing a horn like a Medium Bore.
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Destructo
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2023 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I second the idea of the Venturi being an easy one to target.

Harrelson sell shim kits with different venturi and gap options. You could get a thin shim that chokes the venturi of the leadpipe down to whatever size you want.

https://www.whyharrelson.com/store/p267/Mouthpiece_Gap_Shims.html

There might be some guess work for the outside diameter required so it sits ontop of the current leadpipe ledge securely without falling out, but you can probably ask them for something like:

All thinnest-possible shims:
5 x 0.40, each with a different Outside Diameter
5 x 0.45, each with a different Outside Diameter

That's the $50 solution.

Mouthpiece backbore is the next option. It's tricky with C trumpets though because a tighter backbore, especially on a large bore instrument, will likely end up playing flat above the staff. So if any of your music goes above the 1st ledger A, it'll probably become a problem. (I found a few times that the A will end up actually in tune without trigger, but then the Bb on up will be well flat).
Of course, this could get expensive trying stuff out unless you can go into a store that has a Warburton Kit or somewhere like ACB, find something that works, and buy only that set up.

After that, next most expensive option would be a tuning slide with a tighter bend, and possibly a smaller bore. The smaller bore and a tighter bend will possibly make the D/Eb/E at the top of the staff flatter.

After that, the solutions get more difficult and expensive. Alternate leadpipes is the next option, and ultimately the best solution, but you may or may not want anything quite so permanent if you like the instrument how it came.

You *could* buy an alternate pipe for it, and have a tech attach a hook/clamp for it, so you can use the second pipe without removing the original.
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OldSchoolEuph
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2023 4:58 am    Post subject: Re: Ridiculous bore question: make big bold C trumpet small Reply with quote

Riojazz wrote:
I'm older now and for my small church, I would rather have a C trumpet that doesn't take so much to fill and sound so much like the big beast that it can be.


This has 2 parts:

First, bore has nothing to do with what it takes "to fill" the horn. The horn is open, you cannot technically fill it, but beyond that, this is a question regarding air volume. The volume of air that passes into the horn per unit time is a function of the throat of your mouthpiece, not the bore of the horn. It is a venturi, and the delta-pressure across it determines how much air moves through it. Need to flow less air? buy a mouthpiece with a tighter throat.

Second, sounding like a "big beast" is the player - to an extent. Shires horns are typically on the lighter, but definitely more responsive side. (Churches also echo, so you will hear yourself at a higher dynamic than you would in other settings - the audience does not experience the same effect). To "tame" a horn of this type, the answer is typically found in adding mass - weighted caps, harmonic balancers have a significant impact on Shires horns (attenuating the high noise that makes it feel louder), and a mega-tone type mouthpieces can also help with this. However, as mass makes you work harder to initiate tone, this may be offset by you unless you control your inputs, which are ultimately what make a horn loud.
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Riojazz
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2023 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you all for such interesting answers. I have written to my rep at Shires.

I am familiar with the difference Blackburn leadpipes made on several of my horns. Trying a leadpipe the same equivalent size as my Bb Shires makes sense and would do no harm. Maybe I could even drive back to the factory to try it.

Given the other creative suggestions here (throat, shims etc.), perhaps it wasn't such an odd idea after all.
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chrisf3000
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2023 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you go down the path of swapping leadpipes, etc. you might end up going down a very deep rabbit hole. A lot can be done with an efficient mouthpiece - one with perhaps a smaller throat or tighter backbore. The perception will be that the horn is smaller.

That said, you could also try to go to an ITG convention where you might be able to try dozens and dozens of horns until one speaks to you. You will know it when you play it, I promise! If money is a concern, you seem to be within driving distance of Dillon Music, where you might be able to try horns there and see what works. Good luck and report back what you find.
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trumpjosh
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2023 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might check with a repair tech (and I mean a VERY GOOD one) about tapping the leadpipe venturi with the correct tool. I had Steve Shires himself do this to one of my Bbs several years ago when he was still with the company. In about 10 seconds, he made the horn respond much better for my playing.

Regarding Blackburn pipes/slides, they can make these for Shires horns, but in my experience they achieve sort of the opposite of what you're looking for (think bigger/darker).

Some other differences between the older Shires horns and current ones are the weight of the leadpipe (they switched to using an "H" leadpipe on most of their offerings around a decade ago) and the braces. I always mix this part up but older ones were cast and later ones were forged (I may have that backwards). I've had identical C trumpets from them that just had that one difference and it made a HUGE difference in slotting and response.

Good luck!
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kalijah
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2023 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The horn is open, you cannot technically fill it, but beyond that, this is a question regarding air volume.


I think you mean air flow.

Quote:
The volume of air that passes into the horn per unit time


again, air flow

Quote:
is a function of the throat of your mouthpiece, not the bore of the horn.


The acoustic characteristics of the instrument does affect the acoustic resistance when playing a tone. Not the mp throat alone (which does contribute).

Quote:
It is a venturi, and the delta-pressure across it determines how much air moves through it.


ONLY if you are blowing steady air through the mouthpiece alone. When playing a tone on the full instrument, the acoustic characteristics downstream DOES affect the resistance, and the flow of air.
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OldSchoolEuph
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2023 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kalijah wrote:
ONLY if you are blowing steady air through the mouthpiece alone. When playing a tone on the full instrument, the acoustic characteristics downstream DOES affect the resistance, and the flow of air.


A trumpet is not an electrical circuit.

I've done this on paper, and with real people, using the same player, same horn, same room - change the mouthpiece throat, their volumetric flow rate changes.

"Resistance" is a perception. It is how much energy you have to put in to get an expected dynamic at your ears. It is your ears tricking you. You work harder against greater resistance to achieve amplitude, thereby using more air to stimulate the embouchure and having to put more pressure behind it to force it through the venturi. But that resistance is not to flow in the horn itself, it is the resistance to the pressure you add to force more air through that set orifice to achieve greater energy at the embouchure that is required to hear the dynamic that you expect.

When it comes to perceived resistance, a hose-a-phone demands almost infinite energy, yet has a .750" bore. An efficiently made .438 bore trumpet can feel quite free-blowing. In both cases, it is an illusion of resistance to flow, not a reality. The rubber hose soaks up sound while the efficiently built trumpet projects the same. We hear the result and adjust the energy we put in accordingly.

All the while, the actual "air it takes" depends solely on the delta pressure we choose to put across the orifice while working toward that expected effect at our ears.

If a player has trouble meeting that volumetric flow rate, then a tighter mouthpiece throat often is the simple, and effective, answer. Conversely, if someone is struggling against too much pressure, but has no capacity issue, a larger throat makes that struggle against pressure suddenly lessen, and the horn "blows free".
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kalijah
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2023 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
A trumpet is not an electrical circuit.


What does that have to do with anything? I did not mention electrical circuit.

Quote:
- change the mouthpiece throat, their volumetric flow rate changes.


Correct, changing the mp throat on a constant trumpet changes the acoustics of the full instrument which changes the instrument resistance.

Changing the trumpet (to one with a different acoustic impedance) but with the same mp throat can also change the acoustics and actual resistance.

Quote:
"Resistance" is a perception.


Yes, players can perceive resistance because it is an actual thing.

Resistance is pressure divided by flow.

And, while playing the instrument, pressure and flow can be measured, and the actual resistance can be determined concurrently.


Quote:
It is how much energy you have to put in to get an expected dynamic at your ears.


I think you mean power (energy/time), not energy, and that is efficiency, not resistance.

But resistance to flow was the point of discussion.
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Andy Del
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2023 4:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It might sound strange, but try taking a really big breath, and not playing as loud. Relax and just play a bit more contained, to the person in front, not the back of the church.

It's the cheapest option.
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Riojazz
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2023 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick update. Again, thank you all for continuing info.

I have not yet heard back from Shires.

A few of you know me, but I might mention I've been playing professionally for 62 years so I am able to make a few needed adjustments to play this horn. Most of the time I just use a cup mute.

[And here's an opportunity to plug a really terrific mute for this purpose: the Frank Huber cup mute. Tim Wendt put me on to it. Fabulous sound, great intonation. www.fhubermusic.com/ I still use Denis Wick on a big band gig, but I use this Huber cup mute in the church. ]
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OldSchoolEuph
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2023 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remember, the church is live. Calibrate your ears accordingly. I'm not exactly young myself, and I still have to work at that calibration to the hall. I wish the Wenger simulation rooms had been around when I was a kid. After that, start simple & work up (in $$). I have had great success (with some help from the kind folks at Schilke) finding mouthpiece solutions to the challenges of age and other factors (mostly age - peers being the biggest sample set available) that allow tried and true hardware to continue to serve as well as ever at minimal cost and effort.
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1962 Mt. Vernon Bach 43
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1957 Holton 27 cornet
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1975 Yamaha YEP-321 Custom
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1975 Olds Recording R-20
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Riojazz
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2023 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OldSchoolEuph wrote:
Remember, the church is live. Calibrate your ears accordingly. I'm not exactly young myself, and I still have to work at that calibration to the hall. I wish the Wenger simulation rooms had been around when I was a kid. After that, start simple & work up (in $$). I have had great success (with some help from the kind folks at Schilke) finding mouthpiece solutions to the challenges of age and other factors (mostly age - peers being the biggest sample set available) that allow tried and true hardware to continue to serve as well as ever at minimal cost and effort.
Thanks. Oh, yes, I've done some age-related mouthpiece adjustments. I direct a 13-piece chamber orchestra of mostly woodwinds and strings, so adjusting to them and to the hall is essential.
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Riojazz
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2023 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've made contact about this with nice folks at Shires. I'll update this thread when appropriate.
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Riojazz
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2023 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just an afterthought in response to some great comments especially by OldSchoolEuph. I do use a different mouthpiece with this horn in church, a Touvron-D. It is what I think one would call massive; there is a lot of mass in that mouthpiece. You are correct, that does tame the sound a bit.

Aside: I first tried a Touvron (regular) and while I like it for tone and articulation, I did not appreciate the difficulty playing anything over the staff. The Touvron-D solves that nicely.
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