Getting stuck Wedge and Warburton tops and backbores apart

DrDave

Hi,

I get questions about how to separate backbore lower shanks from upper backbores components, and tops from backbores, so I thought it might be helpful to post some info on how to do it with duct tape. There are other ways to do this, but this way will remove even stubborn tops, uses no tools, and cannot damage the mouthpiece. I keep a roll of tape in the woodshed for this.

To separate the lower shank from the upper backbore component in order to switch it to a different length for gap adjustment:

1. Apply duct tape to the shank as shown. It must wrap in this direction.

2. Place 3 wraps of tape around it.

3. Place the taped shank along your fingers.

4. Place 3 wraps of tape around your fingers and the shank.

5. Grab the top segment of the backbore and twist it off. If you cannot get a good grip on the top segment of the backbore put a wrap of duct tape around it.

If the shank is really stuck instead of taping it to your fingers you can tape it to the handle of a screw driver for more leverage. This is shown in the photos of removing a stuck top below.

To remove a top from a backbore:

1. Attach duct tape to backbore as shown.

2. Place 3 wraps of tape around backbore. It must wrap in this direction, shown more clearly in the photo of the shank above.

3. Tape the backbore to your fingers as shown above, or to the handle of a screw driver if it is really stuck. Fingers are usually fine.

4. Place 3 wraps of tape around both.

5. For a better grip on the top you can place a wrap of tape around it. This is optional.

6. Grab the top and twist off.

If the tape tears you should put more wraps around the backbore and your fingers (or screw driver handle), or use better tape. What would we do without duct tape

Cheers.
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Ed Kennedy · Heavyweight Member Joined: 15 Jan 2005 Posts: 3187

Looks good!! Those of us with hair on the backs of our fingers might have a painful experience. (like a bikini wax job!! so I've heard)

Alternatively, you can whack the piece in the direction of rotation with a rawhide or canvas mallet and free it up. As long as the striker is softer than the strikee there should be no damage.

DrDave · Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 10:28 am Post subject:

I have to do this fairly often. After a couple of times the hair becomes less of an issue

Actually, it is fine.

Cheers,
Dave
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trmptz · Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 10:35 am Post subject:

That seems like a lot of trouble when you can simply take a thick rubber band and wrap it around the shank multiple times so your hand can get a wide grip on it. Also it's a good idea to use some grease or oil on the threads. It helps that from happening in the first place.

I think I'd find an alternate method before I yanked hair out of my hand! Ouch!

DrDave · Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 10:42 am Post subject:

If a top is really stuck the rubber band will sometimes not work. The hair thing is actually not an issue. It does not hurt at all to remove the tape.

As you suggest, heavy slide oil works great for preventing the problem in the first place.

Cheers.
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trmptz · Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 10:43 am Post subject:

Dave what do you do with the glue residue left over from the duct tape?

DrDave · Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 11:02 am Post subject:

Depending on the tape, there might or might not be any residue. Some brands are worse than others for leaving adhesive. If there is some left I remove it with a product called Goo Gone or Elmer's Sticky Out. Very handy stuff.

Cheers.
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trumpaholic · Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 11:02 am Post subject:

Apply a heavy grease like Hetman USG to the threads and you will not have a problem to start with.

tpttune · Regular Member Joined: 04 Aug 2007 Posts: 63

I would take a contrary view of using grease on the backbore threads. Grease tends to collect grime, dust and grit over time which actually leads to stuck tops and backbores. Keeping the backbore threads clean seems to work best for me.

Pfranklin · Regular Member Joined: 17 Feb 2006 Posts: 12

I second trumpaholics' reply. I have used Hetman USG on Warburton parts over the last 3 years, and for the last few months on Wedge parts. The parts stay tight, yet come apart easily. I believe the USG also has a self centering effect with thread tolerance.

As for dirt and grime, clean the parts occasionally. That should take care of any problems.

Of course, duct tape IS the all purpose fix all!

Merry Christmas to one and all!

Jamie_B · Regular Member Joined: 18 May 2007 Posts: 96

I have a screw rim shilke does this trick work with the screw rims as well? I would think it would be harder as you have less of a surface area to work with.
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tpttune · Regular Member Joined: 04 Aug 2007 Posts: 63

"clean the parts occasionally" - yup! That and periodically taking the top and backbore apart.
But if you are playing with the same backbore and top together so long that they get stuck, then you probably don't have to worry about getting them apart

tom turner · Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 10:16 pm Post subject:

Another easy, but painless way is to do what your doctor does . . . put on the rubber gloves!

A pair of rubber gloves has always done the trick for me (removing the top of a stuck mouthpiece)!

T.

DrDave · Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 8:37 pm Post subject:

I have used duct tape on a screw rim quite effectively as well.

For really stubborn tops I have a rubber strap wrench. I use it for tightening tops onto the 3/8-40 threads on the jig for holding tops in the CNC machine. We sometimes plate screw rims right on the underpart, and it can take some work to get them off and the threads cleaned up. The strap wrench comes in handy there too.

Cheers.
Dave
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www.wedgemouthpiece.com

trmptz

tpttune · Regular Member Joined: 04 Aug 2007 Posts: 63

Wow, trmptz, didn't see your reply last Dec. You really took me to task! Whap, whap, right up beside the head...
How is dust, grime, etc. going to get into sealed threads. Well, a lot of people change backbores either occasionally or sometimes frequently. That change-over period is when dust, etc. has the chance to get on a greased thread; especially when an extra backbore may be left in a pouch, on a desk, in a drawer. Over time, I've found that keeping the mouthpiece receiver, valve casing threads, backbore threads clean leads to fewer stuck parts. Your experience may be different. That's OK - have a nice day!

PW-Factor · Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 2:35 pm Post subject:

Sure, you tell me now, after I used a vice and some protective rubber...
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fraserhutch · Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 2:38 pm Post subject:

I'm sorry, I missed the part involving the soldering iron, framing hammer and anvil.
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etc-etc · Heavyweight Member Joined: 19 Jan 2008 Posts: 6187

Regularly disassemble and assemble the components, keep the threads clean. Same approach as you do with the slides, except for the grease. It would add too much to the "taste" of the mouthpiece.

plp · Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 10:15 am Post subject:

I don't use grease, but a drop or two of valve oil seems to do the job, haven't had one get stuck in a long time. I wipe the threads on the backbores before threading, so that removes any grime or fuzz that collects.
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