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Sticking Valve.



 
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Rapier232
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2024 3:40 am    Post subject: Sticking Valve. Reply with quote

I have just got an Eclipse flugel. It was from a friend of mine, it has a sticking 1st valve intermittently. Now, 2 different techs have checked it (one being Eclipse) and say it’s fine. It isn’t. The valve is slow to come back up from about 2/3rds of the way. Not all the time, but several times during one tune. I’ve tried ultrasonic cleaning, changing valve oil, swapping the springs and even putting another spring underneath the bottom of the valve. Nothing works.

Any ideas?

I’ll try toothpaste next.

Actually, I’ve just, as I type, thought I might try swapping the valve for the 2nd or 3rd, to see if they move freely or stick too. (Before try toothpaste, or my DeWalt sander).😎
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stuartissimo
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2024 4:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the stickiness occur primarily if the valve has been pressed down for a while? Because if it does, that means the valve oil isn’t sticking to the valve surface properly (which usually happens with very worn valves, or if the valves are pressed at a slight angle). One way to remedy that is by using thicker valve oil (i.e. Hetman #3, Yamaha vintage, Berp 3, etc.) or even light slide oil (which is even thicker and will make the valves slow but is a good way to diagnose the problem). If the problem persists then a re-plating or rebuild is probably the only option (removing material from the valve surface or casing may make the problem worse, so I would try to find the cause of the problem first before atttempting that).
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ldwoods
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2024 5:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure how you plan on trying toothpaste, but my advice is to NOT try it as a honing abrasive. If you clean the valve outside of the horn, then OK, but do NOT apply the toothpaste to the piston and try and work it in or hone it in the valve casing.

I am a huge fan of "Clean Stroke" valve oil. It worked a miracle on an older horn I had, so I often post here suggesting using it.

https://www.austincustombrass.biz/clean-stroke-valve-wash/

It is made by Warburton, but I got mine from ACB.
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Rapier232
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2024 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies. The flugel is 8 years old and in good condition apart from the annoying sticking on the upstroke occasionally. I tried putting the 2nd valve in and that works flawlessly, so I surmise it’s the valve that is the cause. I’ll try using tooth paste as an abrasive just on the valve, away from the instrument and then clean it thoroughly. I couldn’t turn down a £3000 flugel for £600, especially as I don’t actually need one.
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huntman10
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2024 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a thought, but when you hold the horn, how tightly does your left thumb press on the first valve slide? If you have to tighten your grip as you play, pressure on the outer slide tube may slightly distort the cylinder, causing a piston stop.
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huntman10
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Rapier232
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2024 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was happening for the guy I bought it from and happens to me too, so I don’t think that’s the problem.
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huntman10
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2024 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rapier232 wrote:
It was happening for the guy I bought it from and happens to me too, so I don’t think that’s the problem.


Wouldn't be too hard to try a slightly different grip to see if it changes. Cylinder stress from impacted slide legs shows up in that way, from my experience.
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huntman10
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Rapier232
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2024 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I’ll give it a go, tomorrow.
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JayKosta
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2024 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If 'grip' isn't the solution, I'd try a much heavier valve oil (or pharmacy Mineral Oil), and add thinner oil drop-by-drop onto the piston until acceptable valve speed is restored.
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Rapier232
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2024 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It’s not the grip. I tried putting an extra spring under the valve and that cured the problem. I wouldn’t want to play it like that though. Maybe I need to find a set of stronger springs and replace all three valve springs.
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chickenburger
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2024 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try not to apply the toothpaste to the piston but either try to work it in the valve casing.
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Rapier232
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2024 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not going to put toothpaste inside the valve casing. Too difficult to make sure it’s all cleaned out. I’ll just use it as a mild abrasive on the piston’s surfaces and see how that goes.
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Rapier232
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2024 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, fingers crossed, the toothpaste and a change of oil seem to have cured the sticking valve problem. Let’s hope it lasts.
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rhatheway
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Joined: 02 Apr 2024
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 10:35 am    Post subject: Re: Sticking Valve. Reply with quote

Rapier232 wrote:
I have just got an Eclipse flugel. It was from a friend of mine, it has a sticking 1st valve intermittently. Now, 2 different techs have checked it (one being Eclipse) and say it’s fine. It isn’t. The valve is slow to come back up from about 2/3rds of the way. Not all the time, but several times during one tune. I’ve tried ultrasonic cleaning, changing valve oil, swapping the springs and even putting another spring underneath the bottom of the valve. Nothing works.

Any ideas?

I’ll try toothpaste next.

Actually, I’ve just, as I type, thought I might try swapping the valve for the 2nd or 3rd, to see if they move freely or stick too. (Before try toothpaste, or my DeWalt sander).😎


The third valve on my Getzen was doing the exact same thing. My instrument tech took a look at it and told me the valve casing was out of round (which was likely due to it having been dropped at some point in its life). He ended up doing two things that made a difference:

1) He took a valve casing tool and re-rounded the inside casing of the valve.

2) He relapped that valve casing (essentially polished it on the inside) so that now the piston (what we call the valve) slides smoothly up and down and doesn't hang up on the return.

It didn't take long to do and it made all the difference and now it works fine.
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