Noisy valves -- what to do

[Cadenza]

Playing a nice 15-year old horn, and sometimes the valves make a bit of a soft clanking noise. Compression is great, no damage at all, just a horn that's not new. What to do?

Do valve guides wear out, and if so how can you tell whether this is the problem?

Do springs wear and begin to make noise somehow? Do springs have a "top" and "bottom" that could get reversed and then cause noise?

I'm guessing there are other reasons and fixes that other players may know about. Thought I would ask before fooling around.

Thanks for any ideas!

[Maarten van Weverwijk]

This noise is probably coming from a bent spring, or a winding of the spring that's either scratching the valve, the valve guide or the next winding of the spring.
It's no big deal: just replace the springs for ones that fit your instrument and you'll be ready to play.

-Valve guides usually don't wear in 15 years. Springs could do with a replacement every 5 years or so.
-Metal valve guides can be silenced by applying a bit grease on the ends. Be careful to not oil that part of the valve afterwards, because the grease will make the valve slow.
Plastic valve guides are less noisy and normally work well with valve oil.
-Yes, some trumpets use springs that are cone- or barrel shaped. If they are worn out or have been installed the other way around, they will make noise.
-Always make sure to look for the right shape & size of springs.

Go to your repair shop or make your choice here:
http://www.thebandroom.biz/01_search_auto4.php/items.php?id=755

MvW.

[Cadenza]

Thanks, Maarten! I'm glad this shouldn't be an expensive adventure. And thanks for the link to that great parts page.

I wonder whether the "universal" springs actually work well (my horn is a Schilke and no Schilke parts are listed).

It's interesting to see that while most springs are simply cylindrical, others are "barrel" (fatter in the middle, offered for Jupiter) and others are "pyramid" (wider at one end). Perhaps the "pyramid" springs fit into different size recesses so you don't inadvertently switch them around.

It's also interesting that the springs aren't offered in different "strengths" (weak, medium, strong). Another current TH thread mentions ideas for adjusting this.

Will be fun to experiment.

[Craig Swartz]

Not sure if Schilke springs are available any longer in various "strengths" but they were (3 types) 20 years ago or so when the shop was still on S. Wabash. Go to the site and use the "contact" link, that's how I ordered new felts and springs. I guess I didn't specify a strength for springs but what ever was/is standard would be OK.

[veery715]

If th e noise is "sometimes", check and make sure the top caps are tight. You probably know this but I thought I'd mention it anyway.

veery

[Cadenza]

Yes, caps and all parts are tight. Even the Warburton backbore and top are screwed together well. -- ha, that once gave me fits with a horn until I realized they were slightly loose.

No source of noise other than the valves themselves.

[mikeman7]

how are your felts?? do they need to be changed? once they get old, they get hard and don't give much cushion. they make the valves sound noisy especially on the up-stroke.
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[Capt.Kirk]

Having learned on an Old Bach and now owning some vintage trumpets and cornets I really do not pay any attention to the valve guide noise. I guess I just block it out. Now with that said if this trumpet was quite before and is not making noise I would say something is worn. It might be a good idea just to replace the guides,springs,felts and or corks all at once to be done with it.

P.S. I normally save one spring,guide and set of felts and keep in a small zip lock bag in the case with each trumpet. This way if ever I have a failure or lose a part I have a back up spare.
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