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Dimes in the Bottom


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trombahonker
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 11:12 am    Post subject: Dimes in the Bottom Reply with quote

Hey there all,

I'm borrowing a buddies Bb trumpet while mine is the Brass Bow getting a PVA, and his C until my Yamaha Chicago comes in, and I noticed this morning that he has dimes in the first and third valve bottom caps. I'm assuming this is a poor-mans heavy bottom cap, but how effective would it actually be in mimicking a real HVC? He said his professor (Jay Coble, University of South Florida) suggested he try it out, and he likes it.

Just a thought,
Aaron Norlund
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maynard-46
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 11:19 am    Post subject: Dimes in the Bottom Reply with quote

Check out Bob Reeves' site...he makes what he calls "cylinder reinforcers" that do the same thing.

http://www.bobreeves.com/products/accessories/index.htm

BW
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Sooner
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a couple of pennies in the 3rd valve cap of my 38B. It works well for me.
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_PhilPicc
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do you get pennies to fit in the valve cap unless you file them down?
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mafields627
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I put one in the third valve cap of my Strad and while it made the horn slot better, it also made the horn more stuffy. I played with it in for a few minutes then took it out.
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bgwbold
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the old days, you could say you would always have a dime to make a phone call, but not anymore.

Mike
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JSTpt1
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used to do this for a while and liked it. I wavered back and forth on the issue of dimes and or heavy caps for the past couple of years... Not sure really where I stand on it anymore, but the dimes do work as a replacement to heavy caps. Better slotting, more focus blah blah blah. Maybe it was just me, but as a developing player, I noticed that using those kinds of things may have covered up some inherent problems in my playing.
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trombahonker
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah,

I don't really know what to think about it. I can't really tell a difference when they're in or not. My playing varies so much from minute to minute, being a senior in high school still, that I can't really compare too much. I suppose there is a little bit different in feel when the dimes are there, but I don't really know how to describe it. They certainly don't fix and problems...I can attest to that...heh

Anyway, I was just curious why these things actually change the way a horn plays. Someone said that dimes made his or her horn slot better, but play stuffier? How the hell does a chunk of metal on the bottom of a valve cylinder actually effect the blow of a horn? This stuff befuddles me.

Confused=Aaron
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BigBadWolf
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I, like many people before me, have experimented with all of the little gadgets like heavy valve caps, cylinder reinforcer, tone rings, different metal valve caps (german silver, etc) and have really not felt that much difference with any of them. Actually the exception was the Reeve ring that goes on your reciever (I think it's called a tone ring, but I am not sure). That signifacantly made my sound harsh and lousy. But aside from that I haven't had any possitive or negative affects from any of the other things.

Kevin
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JSTpt1
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its 90% mental. I think you will just percieve it as stuffier or whatever because you are hearing a slightly different sound out of the bell and trying to adjust for it. It could be that due to better projection, you are hearing less behind the bell, and then trying to over blow. Just a theory.
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JSTpt1
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or, as wolf is suggesting, they do nothing at all and its 100% mental. I say whatever makes you feel better will make you a more confident player. Or maybe it just makes you delusional... I don't know, I'm indesicive tonight...
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UsedBits
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I, like many people before me, have experimented with all of the little gadgets like heavy valve caps, cylinder reinforcer, tone rings, different metal valve caps (german silver, etc) and have really not felt that much difference with any of them.


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tom turner
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 4:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Dimes in the Bottom Reply with quote

trombahonker wrote:
Hey there all,

I'm borrowing a buddies Bb trumpet while mine is the Brass Bow getting a PVA, and his C until my Yamaha Chicago comes in, and I noticed this morning that he has dimes in the first and third valve bottom caps. I'm assuming this is a poor-mans heavy bottom cap, but how effective would it actually be in mimicking a real HVC? He said his professor (Jay Coble, University of South Florida) suggested he try it out, and he likes it.

Just a thought,
Aaron Norlund


Have fun taking them in and out and test what it does to the horn/player interface.

Whenever anything is changed on a horn it will change the way it plays somewhat. Like worming a dog to kill the fleas makes the dog kind of sick too . . . one change on a horn may benefit one aspect while being detrimental to something else.

More mass, particularly in the resonance-vulnerable third slide valve casing area WILL lock in the slotting of a horn to a greater extent. Too tight of slotting is just as bad as not enough! Clasical players prefer real tight slots to prevent chipping a note after 100 bars of rest. Jazz and commercial players prefer to "unzip" the slots a little more to facilitate smooth bends of notes and the execution of shakes, falls and rips.

Most decent trumpet makers try to "split the difference." Sometimes a player will even use a weight, or a heavy cap on both the third valve AND the 1st valve. That really tightens things up . . . too much in most cases. Nothing really affects the blow when you put it on the second valve.

Some very discerning players will vary the weights or caps depending on the gig.

I see no reason to put out big bucks to put big, ugly heavy caps on my horn when a 15 cent heavy brass washer from a plumbing supply store does just as well inside the cap when snugged between the bottom of the valve body and the top inside of the bottom cap.

THE OTHER DOWNSIDE OF THE MASS . . .

Just like the heavy mouthpieces, heavy horns, etc., adding mass "darkens" the tone by attenuating the overtones. This is ok in a very bright room of glass and wood . . . but death in a hall with heavy accoustical damping! Also, the mass slows down the response of a horn, making it take greater effort to make it "speak."

Like I said, for each change there is a trade-off somewhere else.

Tom
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Tootsall
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wouldn't putting dimes in the bottom caps have the secondary effect of slowing down the valves? After all, you are blocking off the hole in the bottom cap that allows air release and return from the bottom end of the piston (or do ya drill holes in yer dimes?)
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trumpetchops
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always thought that the whole in the bottom cap is to let air out. When you put a dime in there don't you make compression in the valve? Can this cause leeks?
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Sooner
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PhilPicc wrote:
How do you get pennies to fit in the valve cap unless you file them down?


A penny fits nicely in the bottom cap of a 38B. They were a little larger then typical valve caps.
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mafields627
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tootsall wrote:
Wouldn't putting dimes in the bottom caps have the secondary effect of slowing down the valves? After all, you are blocking off the hole in the bottom cap that allows air release and return from the bottom end of the piston (or do ya drill holes in yer dimes?)


The dime doesn't make a complete seal with the hole.
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timcates
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

more trumpet voodoo for you to try - take some round cork (like you would cut water key cork from - the final piece should be like three waterkey corks thick - approx. 2/3 to 1/2 inch) and put it in the bend of the first valve slide - tightens the slots and darkens the horn tonally - I've done this for the last couple of years and can really feel a difference in response - I also noticed that the new Yamaha Chicago C has a small brace at this location, so I'm assuming that this is the poor man's version of that tweak - FWIW YMMV

TC
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bearkatrumpet
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt,

I noticed you're in Tuscaloosa. I assume you're there for the university. I grew up there and moved away almost five years ago, havent been back since. Just wondering howw are things are goin in T-Town.

--Aaron

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tom turner
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

timcates wrote:
more trumpet voodoo for you to try - take some round cork (like you would cut water key cork from - the final piece should be like three waterkey corks thick - approx. 2/3 to 1/2 inch) and put it in the bend of the first valve slide - tightens the slots and darkens the horn tonally - I've done this for the last couple of years and can really feel a difference in response - I also noticed that the new Yamaha Chicago C has a small brace at this location, so I'm assuming that this is the poor man's version of that tweak - FWIW YMMV

TC


Hi,

The best spot for that little piece of cork is the bend in the THIRD valve slide, IMHO.

Tom
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