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What the best valve oil?


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googanelli
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tend to think that almost any modern oil is going to work well for most horns. I have ten different brands of oil on my shelf and have tried them all. Some seem to last longer or work better than others with certain horns. I am using the ultra pure stuff right now. It seems to be decent. I have used the al cass for years. The bells stuff was really good too. Try a couple, see what works for that peticular horn.

Joe
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ScottWeber
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm a fan of using Blue Juice for the valves.. sometimes I'll squirt a little oil on the 1st and 3r valve so I can throw those slides faster. Motor oil for the tuning slide. I think blue juice is great, and when I teach at the elementary level the kids love it. It also cuts back on the grime and protects against mold and bacteria. $4 a bottle and a quick oil job every time you play.. one bottle can last up to a year if you use a little regularly. http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Juice-Valve-Oil-2oz/dp/B0002F4M16
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Matthew Anklan
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm a big fan of the Zaja line. If I can't get Zaja, I always default to Blue Juice.
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nieuwguyski
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it depends both on your personal chemistry and the horn. I've tried valve oils that get great reviews, only to have endless sticky-valve problems. The problems went away with a change of valve oil. Among the victims of these problems have been a Schilke and a cornet with newly-replated valves (done by the Brass Bow, back when Wayne was there), so I don't think the problems were indicative of low-quality or worn valves.

As a result, I don't use just one valve oil. Currently I use three, depending on the horn, and would probably use a fourth if I could buy it locally.

No names, because what's the point? I think you have to try different brands out to see what works best for you and your horns.
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mag2001
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like Blue Juice. I few drops down lead pipe also keeps my horn clean. I have tried most valve oils and favor blue juice.
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Crazy Finn
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nieuwguyski wrote:
I think it depends both on your personal chemistry and the horn...

No names, because what's the point? I think you have to try different brands out to see what works best for you and your horns.

Exactly. I see the a few of the most recent posters liked Blue Juice. Blue Juice was about the worst valve oil I had ever used - for me. Also, for many of my students, it's terrible.

In the latter case, it might be that it gets mixed with others - like Al Cass. Those two are like oil and glue - with Blue Juice turning into the latter when it meets the former.

However, I thoroughly cleaned my valves and gave it a try on my professor's recommendation. It was horrific. As bad as it was on my Yamaha, it was even worse on my Bach 229 C.

Personally, I don't think detergents are a good thing in valve oils. I want an oil that lubricates. That's it. No extra additive crap. I can take my horn apart and clean it - and do so regularly.

But it's all relative. I had a student baritone player who had very sticky valves. I cleaned them out, re-oiled them, re-cleaned them and tried a few oils. Nothing worked. Finally I gave a orphaned bottle of Blue Juice a whirl. Poof! Magic. Worked great.

So, it's all relative.

If you do like Blue Juice, I recommend Getzen valve oil. It's like Blue Juice, but WAY better.
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Capt.Kirk
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am the bigest non-liker of Blue Juice. I will say this it is only relative with regards to chemistry because people chose to add chemistry to their oil. I mean from the OEM side not the end user level. Your chemistry can not react in a manner that is non-productive tot he job of oiling valves if all that is in the oil is oil. Oil really only reacts with O2, heat, shearing stress. I mean in a horn not like we have hot nasty sulfur and other combustion gas's spewing through the horn in large amounts like a cr does. So just keep the "relativity" in the scientific realm.

A lot of guys on Horn-u-copia use the 50% 3in1 and 50% Blue Juice mix on old horns with worn or dirty valves. The 3in1 makes a huge difference. Having used it by itself or mixed with other valve oils what ever chemistry is in sure does clean deeply over time.
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Last edited by Capt.Kirk on Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:37 am; edited 1 time in total
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Accordion Ron
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bought some "Bluejuice" (which is actually green) because I've heard so much about it. Doesn't work nearly as well as my old favorite Hetman's. Think I'll give it to the guy next to me, (slow him down a bit haha) and buy more Hetman's.
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HornofPlenty
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used to use Blue Juice, but if I was not very careful, then it would stain the trumpet case a bit where the valve bottom caps rested. Guess I used too much sometimes!

My next stop was "Ultra Pure". I really like their valve oil and slide grease.
Works well on all my horns. I have heard good things about Hetman's oil, especially helping compression a bit on vintage horns.
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blurchin
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ultra Pure.
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uglylips
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm addicted to 5 Starr. It's the smoothest and lasts the longest for me.

http://5starrproducts.com/
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thecoast
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting. Haven't seen anybody mention BiNaK 495 and BiNaK PRO. You don't need much of it and it'll keep even your infrequently used instruments lubricated practically forever. I went to was mobilized for a year, including 10 months in Afghanistan, and when I came back and picked up my flugelhorn, it was moving flawlessly. Though at first it needed a slight push to unstick, the valve action continued as if no time had intervened. First oil to be invented by a tribologist (I'll let you google or Websters the def). And a female tribologist to boot! She knows what she's talkin' about and is on to something. Moreover, the oil is non-carcinogenic. Try to beat that!
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Brass Warehouse
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I rate Ultra-Pure as probably the best oil there is.. So much so we now sell it in the UK!
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RandyTX
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been using ulta-pure in everything until recently, at which time I started using 5starr in one instrument, after Dr. Valve (Steve Winans) did some work on it. He returned the instrument to me with a bottle of 5starr in the box, and on the valves.

I decided rather than clean it out and put ultra-pure back in, I'd give it a try and just use it in that horn for a while and see how it goes.

I have to say, despite being very happy with ultra-pure, that it is very good and the valves are very fast. Of course, it's being used on a valve block that Dr. Valve himself has worked on, so that might be more responsible than the oil.

I have a lot of Ultra-Pure here, including refill bottles, so I'm not sure if I will switch eventually. In fact, what I need to do is put ultra-pure in this horn that is using 5starr now and see if I can detect any real change pro or con.

Right now, I'd say they're both excellent, at least for me and my chemistry.
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chapahi
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use Fat Cat for my vintage horns. It's thicker for looser valve tolerance and really works, plus I like the name.
On the newer horns it's Ultrapure.
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