Tricky customer

pitchb · Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2003 9:13 pm Post subject:

There are no doubt countless threads on valve oils on TH, but I guess I'll put a post out there anyway. I have tried Al Cass, Blue Juice, and Musichem Pro-Oil Hybrid, and none of them work effectively. I just had my pistons lapped, so I know the problems that I'm having with my valves are most likely from oil, (I'm assuming that I'm pushing the valves down straight enough). Seeing as I've already exhausted these oil options, what are some good alternative oils for me to try?

Johann24 · Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2003 9:45 pm Post subject:

I guess depending on how tightly lapped your valves are, you need to be focusing on the weight of your oil. I guess you might want to try Hetman light piston oil or other light oils. I got a free bottle of H2Oil with my VR and I've barely used any, it lasts forever. The nice thing is that it's plenty light, so it just might work for you.

My 2¢
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OzTrumpeteer · Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2003 10:37 pm Post subject:

I agree, check the weight of the oil. The valves on my horn are a bit worn, so it was suggested that I use a thicker oil than the Al Cass that I was using. I'm now using Windcraft oil and the valves work fine.

cwerickson · Heavyweight Member Joined: 06 Jul 2003 Posts: 642

Having your valves lapped could have made the problem worse, if the trouble was that they were too loose in the first place (which is common)... now they have more room to kick to one side, and will likely hang up more. (If indeed, that was the trouble to begin with.)

Try a thicker oil to take up some of the space. Just a guess, but I think you'll have better luck with thicker, rather than thinner.

Good luck!

TopGun · Veteran Member Joined: 17 Mar 2003 Posts: 456

Do you play a Bach? How do the valves feel? Fast or slow? If they are really fast you might try some Hetman's heavy oil, I think that may be #3. If they are slow I would go with the lite oil as stated above.

TopGun

johntpt · Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2003 6:59 am Post subject:

Try Zaja Blue Valve Oil. For me this works much better than any other I've tried. Brass Bow in Chicago uses this on all the horns they work on it their shop, and they sell it as well. I've also bought it from Dillon's and Rayburn's.

JU

_PhilPicc · Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2003 7:24 am Post subject:

Ditto on the Zaja Blue. I used Al Cass for years and then had some horns worked at Brass Bow (PVA). When I got the first one back I called and asked what they put on my valves that made them better than they already had been. They said they use Zaja Blue. I told them when they send the other two horns back send me a couple of bottles of the Zaja. I have been using it ever since with great results.

HTH,
Phil
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jhaysom · Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2003 8:25 am Post subject:

Have a look at this thread:

http://www.trumpetherald.com/forum/viewtopic.php?topic=11550&forum=9&2
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1941 King 2B valve trombone
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etc.

smithwatkinsguy · Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2003 7:51 pm Post subject:

Depending on how old your horn is and how tight the valves are (I'm guessing it's new) I would either use the light, standard or heavy (standard if they are just a little sluggish). Also, I would try the H2Oil from Reeves or the Zaja Blue oil. Those are probably your best bets, I use Hetman Light Oil on my Smith and Watkins because it has pretty tight valves, the 3rd valve seems to be a bit tighter on the bottom than the other 2, but the Hetman Oil really speeds it up and I finally broke in the valves after about 9 months!
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Emb_Enh · Veteran Member Joined: 29 Oct 2002 Posts: 455

I've tried 'em all...and..the ONLY one I use now is = H O L T O N!!!
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mrblowtorch · Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2003 9:17 pm Post subject:

Just a thought - I used to own a horn whose valves stuck because the cork gaskets on top were disintegrating and throwing cork chips into the valve casings.

-M