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Advice on valve compression please



 
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richarddownunder
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Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 1:15 am    Post subject: Advice on valve compression please Reply with quote

Hi All

got some magnehelic measurements made on my (newish) trumpet - I don't know what the units are but assuming they are a standard unit for this type of measurement. I wondered if there were thoughts on whether these are acceptable. The manufacturer says they are within their spec.

First set dry, second set oiled

1ST VALVE UP 3.0 2.3
1ST VALVE DOWN 3.0 2.3
2ND VALVE UP 3.2 2.0
2ND VALVE DOWN 4.0 3.1
3RD VALVE UP 3.4 2.1
3RD VALVE DOWN 3.4 2.6

The guy who did the measurements was very helpful and thought they were OK, but, I think, not very good... but the key is how the horn plays.

Just interested really in any wisdom from those knowledgeable in such things.

Cheers
Richard
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Richard A
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 2:13 am    Post subject: Compression Measuring Reply with quote

I’ve only seen compression measured with a leak down tester. My suggestion would be to measure at some interval, perhaps annually, and see how it changes. Then find a friendly dealer who will let you measure a brand new horn or two and compare your results.
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zaferis
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never seen measurements like this done on valves..

In my mind, compression (the lack of compression) will have an effect on the valve movement before there is air leakage around the valves during play (so worn or untrue that the valve is hanging up). My reasoning is that the amount of air actually moving through the instrument creates much less standing pressure than the instrument can handle - the air can easily escape from the bell. You would have to be moving an inordinate amount of air for the pressure to "back up" enough to get forced around the valves, unless the compression was very low - by the time the valves have that little compression you would have more issues with them hanging up.

The interesting number(s) would be, how low can the compression be before leakage during play has impact upon tone. Then, how different is that with various mutes? I can imagine it's different with a Harmon mute.

I own a couple instruments that have I've had for 30+ years (continuous use) that have no "pressure" issues and still perform well. I think any realtively new instrument would be well within playable ranges - again, unless there is an mechanical/physical issue from damage or extremely poor construction.
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shofarguy
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Richard,

Back about 10 years now (wow, it HAS been that long!) I owned a 1976 vintage Benge 5X. It had really... No, extremely loose slotting. Eventually, it began to leak water and bubbles out between the tubes of the 3rd valve slide and the 2nd valve slide would blow off when I played. I had to hold that with my middle finger when I played it!. Then, the 1st valve piston began to hang up.

I had all the pistons rebuilt and all of the slides refit. The change in slotting and resonance was dramatic. Now, the horn landed notes confidently and changed partials crisply.

So, I recommend that you focus on the slotting and resonance of your horn. If it plays well and sounds good, if it works mechanically, don't worry! If it feels and plays loosely, it might be time to check it out further.
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OldSchoolEuph
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 5:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Magnehelic is a brand name for precision pressure gauges. The only application that relates to valve compression is to stop the bell and pressurize the horn slightly (clamping spit key too) and at a very light induced pressure of a few inches water column (1"WC=.036PSI), and then measure the leak-down over a set amount of time. As the first number is not the same in each line, I don't know if these are best and worst leakdowns from multiple runs, or if that is starting and ending in a unit time - and then how much time?

I have done this to demonstrate poor quality valve fitting on some new (and surprisingly major/expensive) horns, but it only provides a comparative frame of reference. How much is too much also depends largely on the geometry and other properties of the individual horn. Long before a horn's valves flop around, higher frequencies will begin to leak through excessive valve gaps. This makes intonation more challenging, leads to frequency based variation in resistance, and eventually degrades the tone quality. But there is no leak-down = degradation chart one can make, so really, this sort of measurement is just a crude yard-stick to demonstrate a problem to non-playing engineers.
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kalijah
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

zaferis wrote:
Quote:
In my mind, compression (the lack of compression) will have an effect on the valve movement before there is air leakage around the valves during play (so worn or untrue that the valve is hanging up). My reasoning is that the amount of air actually moving through the instrument creates much less standing pressure than the instrument can handle - the air can easily escape from the bell.



You are not considering the VERY significant pressure of the standing wave antinodes in the instrument. Most of which does NOT escape the bell. If these occur where a leak can occur, even a small one, there is a problem, valve section or otherwise.

It is the energy of the fundamental that is lost through a leak. But since the antinodes are in various places depending on the note played, a leak may only manifest on certain notes.
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richarddownunder
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi and thanks for the replies. I figured this was a standard analysis of valve state as a similar set of results had been produced by another tech. Apparently it's 0 to 10 scale and my understanding was that above 5 was considered ready for refurbishment. However, maybe it's not such a common approach as I was led to believe.

I'm hoping to replace the horn later this year as I'm not that happy with it anyway. I was just interested in whether this valve tolerance could be a contributing factor in my not really getting on with it so thought I'd ask as I had some numbers.

Thanks again
Richard.
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Wondra
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whenever I've had valves checked for compression, it's been stated in terms of the clearance between each piston and respective valve casing. Using this measurement, clearance of .0005 to .001 is considered a good fit.
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LittleRusty
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wondra wrote:
Whenever I've had valves checked for compression, it's been stated in terms of the clearance between each piston and respective valve casing. Using this measurement, clearance of .0005 to .001 is considered a good fit.

The clearance between the piston and casing provides a hard number, but might not be the best number to rely on if you only receive one number.

From reading on here I understand that casing don't always wear evenly, but sometimes are worn in an hourglass shape. So the clearance will vary based on whether the top, center or bottom of the casing is measured, as well as is the piston up and down.

For leakage I would suspect the most important number would be the clearance between the piston and casing at the valve port. Both with the port closed off and open/active.

For the up and down movement I would suspect the variance that allows the piston to move side to side would be more important.
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Wondra
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

LittleRusty wrote:
Wondra wrote:
Whenever I've had valves checked for compression, it's been stated in terms of the clearance between each piston and respective valve casing. Using this measurement, clearance of .0005 to .001 is considered a good fit.

The clearance between the piston and casing provides a hard number, but might not be the best number to rely on if you only receive one number.

From reading on here I understand that casing don't always wear evenly, but sometimes are worn in an hourglass shape. So the clearance will vary based on whether the top, center or bottom of the casing is measured, as well as is the piston up and down.

For leakage I would suspect the most important number would be the clearance between the piston and casing at the valve port. Both with the port closed off and open/active.

For the up and down movement I would suspect the variance that allows the piston to move side to side would be more important.


Yes! The number is an average of several measurements because as you say, wear is not even.
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James Becker
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In our workshop we use a leak tester that measures the amount of pressure loss at 1 lb of static air pressure. Understanding that the sound pressure in wind instruments doesn't exceed 1 lb, this test provides us a realistic load by which to judge go or no go.

In our industry there are two tiers of valve fit manufacturers typically go for.

The most common are student valves that are ground or honed to a target diameter that allows them to be dropped into the casing without further hand fitting. On average these will lose between 15 and 20 percent, or score 80 to 85 percentage points on our test. This more relaxed fit allows valves to move freely with enough seal to allow for playability.

For professional grade instruments the standards are higher. Final hand fitting of pistons in casings is required to achieve a tighter seal. Typically the better makers score 95%, while some may relax their fit to 90% but not less than 85%.

Our diagnostic leak test allows us to determine when a valve rebuild is in order. We final test our rebuilds to insure they meet or exceed industry standards. We offer this diagnostic test free of charge to our customers, you simply have to ask.

A film of valve oil can bump these numbers by as much as 5 percentage points. Hetman #3 Classic oil can be an excellent stop gap to improve the seal of leaky valves until such time a rebuild can be done.

I hope this is helpful.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

James Becker wrote:
In our workshop we use a leak tester that measures the amount of pressure loss at 1 lb of static air pressure. Understanding that the sound pressure in wind instruments doesn't exceed 1 lb, this test provides us a realistic load by which to judge go or no go.

In our industry there are two tiers of valve fit manufacturers typically go for.

The most common are student valves that are ground or honed to a target diameter that allows them to be dropped into the casing without further hand fitting. On average these will lose between 15 and 20 percent, or score 80 to 85 percentage points on our test. This more relaxed fit allows valves to move freely with enough seal to allow for playability.

For professional grade instruments the standards are higher. Final hand fitting of pistons in casings is required to achieve a tighter seal. Typically the better makers score 95%, while some may relax their fit to 90% but not less than 85%.

Our diagnostic leak test allows us to determine when a valve rebuild is in order. We final test our rebuilds to insure they meet or exceed industry standards. We offer this diagnostic test free of charge to our customers, you simply have to ask.

A film of valve oil can bump these numbers by as much as 5 percentage points. Hetman #3 Classic oil can be an excellent stop gap to improve the seal of leaky valves until such time a rebuild can be done.

I hope this is helpful.


Mr. Becker,

Great information - thank you!
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snowjam
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I should change by id to cheapbstrd because I can sure vouch for the Hetman #3 oil improving valve compression! $15 in oil delayed my having to replace my sons horns for 12 months so far!

He really wants to complete a rebuild of an an old Conn '46 22B, were down to dents and tuning slides now.
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