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green corrosion!


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md-jones
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 7:23 pm    Post subject: green corrosion! Reply with quote

My son has been playing an old 80's Bach Strad in school for the last few years and recently has been complaining of sticking valves.
When I took them out to find out the problem, I found that most of the horn has that green corrosion in it, especially the third valve.
I know it needs a chemical flush, which I will do as soon as I can.
My question is: what can I use to clean it with at home until I can get it serviced?
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Albert Parrott
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Green could mean several things, but is most probably due to copper sulfate. A fairly safe thing to use on brass is dilute vinegar. Vinegar is a natural product that contains about 5% acetic acid, which is very mild and should not attack the metal of your horn. A gallon of cider vinegar, diluted with an equal volume of warm water will usually allow you to submerge your horn if you use a plastic tub or bin to hold it. Allow it to soak for a couple of hours, and then rinse and dry it thoroughly. Optionally, switch to warm water with with a mild dish detergent, such as Joy, and use a soft brush to snake through the tubing, followed by a rinse and dry.
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trpthrld
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Soak the valves in white vinegar. You can also use an SOS pad to lightly clean the valves.

You'll need to make sure you clean any SOS soap residue off the valves, especially the inside of the spring assembly.

Get a valve casing brush & clean the inside of the casings with white vinegar.

Clean the entire trumpet with liquid dish soap & warm water. That should take care of it until you can get the full chem flush.

BTW, IMO if you give your horn regular cleanings at home (liquid soap, brushes, warm water, etc) chem cleanings are unnecessary. I'm a very active pro player, and I clean my main horns maybe 3 or 4 times a year, more if I'm doing a lot of outdoor gigs.
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etc-etc
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 11:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copper (II) sulfate is quite soluble in water, so it cannot be the main component of the deposits. Rather, the green insoluble deposits are made up from copper (II) carbonate, which would react with vinegar, leading to formation of CO2 (gas) and water-soluble copper (II) acetate.

Chemistry aside, ultrasonic cleaning is a better way to go.
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trpthrld
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

etc-etc wrote:
Rather, the green insoluble deposits are made up from copper (II) carbonate, which would react with vinegar, leading to formation of CO2 (gas) and water-soluble copper (II) acetate.

Not being a chemist I have to ask - is that a bad thing? (seriously, I don't know).

I have had good results with cleaning all sorts of odd deposits & varouis residues from valve pistons with the white vinegar thing. Also with the SOS pads.
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etc-etc
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 1:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem with chemical cleaning, even with vinegar, is how to flush out the residual electrolyte (acid, base or dissociated salt) from all the nooks and crannies. This is further exacerbated in horns that have surface pitting and deposits accumulated in the pits. Any left-over electrolyte will promote new corrosion. Let us say one uses sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to neutralize vinegar; then, it will be necessary to flush out the residual bicarbonate. In the end, you have to use plain water for that final flush-out of the residual electrolyte. This is, however, quite time-consuming (because of the exponential dilution in the closed areas).

Ultrasound cleaning is a better option, as no new chemical species (ions) are introduced. One needs only to flush out the suspension of the insoluble deposits in water. This is also an exponential dilution, but the presence of the remnants of the deposits is not nearly as harmful as that of the leftover electrolyte.
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hansonsf
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 4:32 am    Post subject: Re: green corrosion! Reply with quote

md-jones wrote:
My son has been playing an old 80's Bach Strad in school for the last few years and recently has been complaining of sticking valves.

When I took them out to find out the problem, I found that most of the horn has that green corrosion in it, especially the third valve.


I teach grade 7 and 8 instrumental music and I know well the green corrosion of which you speak. Most of the time it is a result of students chewing gum while playing, although should you ask, it will be fervently denied!

The vinegar wash suggested above should clean it up. The 80's generation Strad has finicky valves to begin with so you likely will have to do the casings and the pistons twice.
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Craig Swartz
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tim, thank you for suggesting the light once-over with SOS pads. I use Flitz or Wenol to take the staining off of my Bach pistons but people here have always taken me to task, claiming it will wear down the piston. The pistons on my Schilke horns never experience the staining, same oil, same person playing, must be a different Monel somehow. Monel metal is much harder than the steel wool in the SOS pad, unless someone is a total jerk it won't harm the piston. One must be certain to clean the residue but since the pistons are removed and cleaned, it isn't a problem. Snake through the ports if you can't clean and flush. Incidentally, Ren Schilke showed me that cleaning the "cleaned pistons" with valve oil (always Al Cass back then) was about as good a solvent as one could find. I doubt he would've recommended the Flitz or Wenol, but the fact it does not remove gun bluing on fine doubles from the turn of the 20th Century (1900-1915 or so) is good enough for me.

For those who don't know, Flitz is a greyish paste cleaner that can be used on fine jewelry but also will remove light surface rust from some very fine old and very expensive firearms without harming the blued surface, again, provided one doesn't rub overly on the edges and corners. Wenol is similar but is more the pink color of jeweler's rouge. I usually rub either on the piston with my fingers, if not, a soft cotton cloth. Both will absolutely buff the corroded slide ferrules to almost new condition. Over the many years I've never noticed any adverse affect on my horns.

BTW- I also teach young-uns, have for 35 years or so. A lot of the green inside is due to the fact that some of those horns haven't been cleaned, ever. I love to run a brush through the lead-pipe of a 7th grader's trumpet and watch their expression when they see the sludge come out. They come back pretty often to clean their horns after that.

Good luck, everyone.
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trpthrld
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Providing that you can get it broke loose, I'll remove the 3rd valve bottom cap & have a student look in that (it's usually caked in mud), then have them stick their pinky up into & rub the inside of the valve casing & look at that.

Then I'll say "All that gook & other stuff? It's basically created by you. Now go clean your horn."
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cwerickson
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

trpthrld wrote:
You can also use an SOS pad to lightly clean the valves.


NO!!! NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

NO!

(Happy holidays everybody!)

Tina
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trpthrld
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes yes yes yes yes.

been doing it for years when it's necessary and it works perfectly.
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cwerickson
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's one thing to do something yourself -- quite another to recommend it to others, say the jr. high kids who may be reading this post.

You do what you like -- but, as someone who builds trumpets, I'm saying that using steel wool on a piston is a really, really bad idea.

Best of luck!

Tina
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Treblehorn
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All very true and well stated. However, without an Ultrasonic tank large enough, or a tech that has one close enough, I would suggest it's easier and more efficient to remove the acid from the metal by dilution, than it would be the base. Them bases like to hang on real tight!

But, ultrasonic is the way to go.....

etc-etc wrote:
The problem with chemical cleaning, even with vinegar, is how to flush out the residual electrolyte (acid, base or dissociated salt) from all the nooks and crannies. This is further exacerbated in horns that have surface pitting and deposits accumulated in the pits. Any left-over electrolyte will promote new corrosion. Let us say one uses sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to neutralize vinegar; then, it will be necessary to flush out the residual bicarbonate. In the end, you have to use plain water for that final flush-out of the residual electrolyte. This is, however, quite time-consuming (because of the exponential dilution in the closed areas).

Ultrasound cleaning is a better option, as no new chemical species (ions) are introduced. One needs only to flush out the suspension of the insoluble deposits in water. This is also an exponential dilution, but the presence of the remnants of the deposits is not nearly as harmful as that of the leftover electrolyte.

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Whole buncha brass. Big, small, short, long, coiled and straight. Someday I'll be able to play them.
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trpthrld
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cwerickson wrote:
It's one thing to do something yourself -- quite another to recommend it to others, say the jr. high kids who may be reading this post.

This very process was recommended to me when I was in high school by an amazing repair technician. Granted that was right after jr. high, but it worked then...and it works now.

cwerickson wrote:
You do what you like -- but, as someone who builds trumpets, I'm saying that using steel wool on a piston is a really, really bad idea.

As someone who has been involved with design & manufacture & clinics & demos & sales for a whole buncha years, I wouldn't recommend anything that wasn't tried & true and proven by my own experiences.

BTW, an SOS pad is about soft of a steel wool as anything could ever hope to be.

Plus, what part of the word "lightly" is being misunderstood?
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Craig Swartz
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 5:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have to stick with trpthrld on this. When someone works the monel or nickel plating of the piston alone, I believe it's difficult to damage or wear down the surface. A while back someone took me to task for recommending Flitz and Wenol, as well as DuPont No.7 auto finish (we're talking paint which you can scratch with your fingernail if you try) rubbing compound to remove staining. His evidence was that even toothpaste can be used as a lapping compound and removes surface. I would contend that the surface being altered would be the softer brass of the casing, not the much harder material of the piston. Both surfaces being monel or nickel, I doubt toothpaste would have any affect. In any event, I've had to fix many horns for students that simply would not work as long as the staining remained on the piston. My own Bach is another good example- if the pistons aren't reliable, I don't get to keep playing...
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cwerickson
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

trpthrld wrote:
Plus, what part of the word "lightly" is being misunderstood?


Have you worked with kids? I'm thinking maybe not, or not recently..

Anyway, not trying to pick a fight -- you're just going to disagree with me (and everybody else I know..) on this. Nothing says we have to agree all the time.

I stick by what I said.. you stick by what you say.. and let's let everybody else make up their own minds.

Best wishes!

Tina
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trpthrld
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cwerickson wrote:
Have you worked with kids?

yes, I do. And teenagers, adults, pretty much everybody. I'll add I have no idea what age group you consider "kids" to be.

cwerickson wrote:
I'm thinking maybe not, or not recently..

you would be in error with that thinking.

It all depends on how techniques are taught, also a respect given to young, inexperienced people that with a little help, some examples, some explanation, some practical application practice (it's also known as "teaching"), that new information can be completely understood, desired results attained, new skills learned, actual self-confidence developed.

Even tho most of them may be younger than me, I don't think of any of my students as lesser people - only less experienced. That's why certain words are emphasized, such as lightly, which really is a pretty easy word to understand and its meaning grasped.

To appease, I'll also add the word "gently."

BTW, have you tried SOS pads on valves, or are you stating your opinion with no actual experience with this exact procedure?
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Rhondo
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2024 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

trpthrld wrote:
cwerickson wrote:
Have you worked with kids?

yes, I do. And teenagers, adults, pretty much everybody. I'll add I have no idea what age group you consider "kids" to be.

cwerickson wrote:
I'm thinking maybe not, or not recently..

you would be in error with that thinking.

BTW, have you tried SOS pads on valves, or are you stating your opinion with no actual experience with this exact procedure?


Just got to this thread… Here we are, 16 years later, and the idea that people who are not professional technicians should use abrasives on valves is still a controversial subject, with opinion split roughly down the middle pro or con. With that being the case, I’m certainly not going to use SOS pads on valves of an expensive trumpet if they can be cleaned by wiping them with isopropyl alcohol and/or soaked in water and Dawn, rinsed and dried, and the result is that they function just fine.
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Winghorn
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2024 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reynold Schilke was so particular about the valves in his trumpets that in the little care booklet that came with his instruments, the new owner was advised to never rotate the valves in their casings!

Doc Severinsen told me in a telephone conversation after buying one of my Mt.Vernon Bachs that the cure for sticking valves was running the pistons in the casings with lava hand soap. He said they would never stick again.

Personally, I would never use steel wool on the valves of any of my trumpets.
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Man Of Constant Sorrow
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2024 4:54 pm    Post subject: Re: green corrosion! Reply with quote

md-jones wrote:
My son has been playing an old 80's Bach Strad in school for the last few years and recently has been complaining of sticking valves.
When I took them out to find out the problem, I found that most of the horn has that GREEN CORROSION in it, especially the third valve.
I know it needs a chemical flush, which I will do as soon as I can.
My question is: what can I use to clean it with at home until I can get it serviced?


re: GREEN CORROSION

Don't tell me ... the "Greenies" (climate activists) are attacking horns ??
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