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A Weighty Question


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Andy Cooper
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2021 6:23 pm    Post subject: A Weighty Question Reply with quote

OK - I watched a YouTube video and got inspired to, yet again, try weights on my mouthpiece and bottom valve caps. I tried out the horn in a live practice room, then an empty auditorium. WOW - it was great - why haven't I been using them all these years?

Then I went to Community Band and plopped myself down in the middle of the section. Immediately things went south.

The horn felt stuffy, I found it more difficult to play in tune. I started shedding weights till eventually I was down to a washer in the third valve cap and a twist of solder wire around the throat of my mouthpiece. Then - everything was fine.

Obviously I'm missing something here.

Do weights only work in ensembles with $10,000 horns using mouthpieces with #14 throats?

Is there a way to overcome the feedback problem that happens when you are immersed in the section?
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Brassnose
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2021 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ha, when I had my comeback in 2014 I thought exactly the same. I wanted to buy a heavy horn and liked the sound and I got into the dark sounding horns and all. After getting back in shape and playing quite some gigs over the last years I have sold all my Monette mouthpieces and am down to one Bach heavy cap on my Bach. This IS a good and useful support but costs next to nothing if you buy used and is reversible.

In fact I know prefer lighter horns such as my Schmidt rotary or regular weight horns such as my Bach. Glad I didn’t jump the gun and bought one of them heavy horns. The only one I’d like to test is the Courtois Evolution series just because (and they look cool, too). Turns out, I really like clear and brighter sounding horns much better both as a listener and a player. I look at the bright side of life

So the heaviest equipment I now own is my Lotus mouthpiece (which feels significantly lighter than Monette - must weigh it) and my bass trumpet.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2021 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"It's not nice to fool Mother Nature."
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Crazy Finn
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2021 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't help you. I've had the same experience, although usually I hate added weight long before I get in a rehearsal.

My most recent experience.

I even took off the third valve slide stop rod and nuts from my Benge during break in rehearsal because they were effecting how the horn responded.

Those parts were missing on my horn for years. I was working music retail and we had an attached repair shop. I finally had my tech buddy reattach one of the posts that was missing and then I added the rod and nuts. Finally, it was complete! Oddly enough the Benge design didn't have a soldered rod (maybe?) so it would sometimes not line up and I'd have to tighten or loosen it.

I got the rehearsal and it was playing.... alright, but something was missing. Frankly, I though it was me and how I was playing. Then my rod starting catching on the post, so after fiddling around with it, I just took it off. Presto, my horn sang, again. Instantly. I haven't put them back on, since.

I've tinkered around with heavy caps, heavy mouthpieces, etc. Most of the time, they don't last long on my horn. So, maybe I'm the wrong person to ask.
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RETrumpet
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2021 11:30 pm    Post subject: Re: A Weighty Question Reply with quote

Andy Cooper wrote:
OK - I watched a YouTube video and got inspired to, yet again, try weights on my mouthpiece and bottom valve caps. I tried out the horn in a live practice room, then an empty auditorium. WOW - it was great - why haven't I been using them all these years?

Then I went to Community Band and plopped myself down in the middle of the section. Immediately things went south.

The horn felt stuffy, I found it more difficult to play in tune. I started shedding weights till eventually I was down to a washer in the third valve cap and a twist of solder wire around the throat of my mouthpiece. Then - everything was fine.

Obviously I'm missing something here.

Do weights only work in ensembles with $10,000 horns using mouthpieces with #14 throats?

Is there a way to overcome the feedback problem that happens when you are immersed in the section?


I have additional weight on most of my classical setups and I play heavy mouthpieces (Monette now, Curry heavy blank before that)

Weight increases the inertia of you instrument which means less energy is lost in vibrations of non-sound producing components and more energy makes it out of the bell (Not exactly the physics, but close enough for this). The other effect is that your feedback behind the bell is going to change because less energy is left behind, closer to your head.

It's a guess, but I imagine the reason you enjoy the weight in an empty room is because more energy bounces back at you. You don't notice the feedback change (especially in a practice room) and so all is good. Maybe ven great!

Still a guess, but in a band setting with 50 people in front of you, you likely don't get the great reverb (even though your tone is still "better"), and now you don't have the feedback behind the bell that you are accustomed to. Which means we make unconscious changes to our approach and things get weird with the embouchure. And you no longer get the satisfaction of the new "better" sound. Seems like you may have had that part figured out...

If you want to keep experimenting with weight, I would suggest doing it in small amounts over longer time. When I first started adding weight, it was only a third bottom cap for intonation and response reasons, then after a few weeks, I felt like I wanted to go more in the same direction tonally, so I went to a full set of caps. Then a couple months later I added a Curry harmonic balancer. Then brass guides and valve stems. Bronze tuning slide. etc....Eventually, I tried heavy top buttons and the horn stiffened up on me so I took those off and I knew I was done. I've tried other weights since then (Lefreque, temporary braces, etc) and I'm at my personal limit. Which is fine. I'm not really looking to solve a problem anymore anyway.

It took me about two years of experimenting to land on my current setup which has been steady for the last 5 or so. My frankenbach weighs 3 lbs 13 oz. (about 60% more than a standard Bach). But it started as an of the shelf horn 7 years ago.
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zaferis
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2021 4:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you stumbled onto something that I find with my own setups and others that show up with some, what I consider to be, odd or crazy setups.

What sounds and feels good in the practice room does not sound or work as well at the gig / rehearsal.

As an example, I find that my Bach 184 cornet sounds really warm and smooth with 3 Curry heavy bottom valve caps (along with the other tweeks I have made). BUT in application, in an ensemble, it loses some of it's tonal presence, and I find it's more difficult to play in-tune. I've settled into standard wieght bottom caps with a tone ring on #3, Curry valve stems, brass valve guides, and with the oem thumb trigger assemble removed a crook weight (mouthpieceexpress) on #1 valve slide.

I agree with the experimentation of weight(s) in smaller doses, over longer periods of time, and in various situations to zero in your preferences.
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Andy Cooper
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2021 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's looking like I need to locate a set of Mark Ridenour's TweeQers though I think sterling silver is overkill.
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shofarguy
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2021 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

During the early 2010s, I did a fair amount of testing with weighted caps and stems for Flip Oakes' accessory sets. He had three different weights of bottom caps, O-rings and heavy top caps, stems and finger buttons, all made for him by Picket Brass, I believe.

The two of us played through every combination of weights and tuning slides for both the Wild Thing and Celebration. We worked to quantify the effects for some three hours straight. I kept the prototype set of weights for a couple of years and would experiment with them, periodically.

In the end, the stock setup just played better. I don't think there was any combination that gave a real improvement in any one aspect. They just made things different and usually much more finicky. I even tried lighter bottom caps borrowed from my WT flugelhorn. The only time I felt that a certain set of weighted caps made an improvement was when the pads in my valves had swelled up from the valve oil and were out of alignment. Flip changed the pad material and realigned the pistons. Then, the horn didn't play as well with those weights. Stock was the best.

Was it just what I was used to? Probably, that had a lot to do with it, but over time the stock horn just responded better throughout the full spectrum of playing. It was more predictable and more intuitive. I don't ever mess with weights, anymore.

The same sort of thing goes, to a lesser extent, with the eight tuning slides Flip offered. In the end, I found the one I like best (#1-J slide) and none of the others gave me enough real advantage to make me switch.

Why?

I think a good development player, like Flip Oakes or Charlie Davis, has a finely tuned sense of how a good trumpet should play and feel. Once they have finalized a design, it's pretty hard to improve it, simply because they've already done that work. That may not always be the case, but I think all but a few of us are much less capable of making real improvements.
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Andy Cooper
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2021 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

shofarguy wrote:

..The only time I felt that a certain set of weighted caps made an improvement was when the pads in my valves had swelled up from the valve oil and were out of alignment. Flip changed the pad material and realigned the pistons. Then, the horn didn't play as well with those weights. ..

.

I had a similar experience many years ago with a Selmer CG. I had Mark Curry make a custom set of weights. At the time, he had to solder his heavy caps to a set of Selmer caps. It really helped the horn which was very brash sounding. I had Roy Lawler do a valve alignment on it (before other custom work) - and then the original caps were the best.
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Andy Cooper
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2021 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crazy Finn wrote:
I can't help you. I've had the same experience, although usually I hate added weight long before I get in a rehearsal.

My most recent experience.

I even took off the third valve slide stop rod and nuts from my Benge during break in rehearsal because they were effecting how the horn responded.

Those parts were missing on my horn for years. I was working music retail and we had an attached repair shop. I finally had my tech buddy reattach one of the posts that was missing and then I added the rod and nuts. Finally, it was complete! Oddly enough the Benge design didn't have a soldered rod (maybe?) so it would sometimes not line up and I'd have to tighten or loosen it.

I got the rehearsal and it was playing.... alright, but something was missing. Frankly, I though it was me and how I was playing. Then my rod starting catching on the post, so after fiddling around with it, I just took it off. Presto, my horn sang, again. Instantly. I haven't put them back on, since.

I've tinkered around with heavy caps, heavy mouthpieces, etc. Most of the time, they don't last long on my horn. So, maybe I'm the wrong person to ask.


It just happens that I'm fooling around (literally right now) with a UMI 7X. I'll unscrew the stop rod and see what it does.
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yourbrass
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2021 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crazy Finn wrote:
I can't help you. I've had the same experience, although usually I hate added weight long before I get in a rehearsal.

My most recent experience.

I even took off the third valve slide stop rod and nuts from my Benge during break in rehearsal because they were effecting how the horn responded.

Those parts were missing on my horn for years. I was working music retail and we had an attached repair shop. I finally had my tech buddy reattach one of the posts that was missing and then I added the rod and nuts. Finally, it was complete! Oddly enough the Benge design didn't have a soldered rod (maybe?) so it would sometimes not line up and I'd have to tighten or loosen it.

I got the rehearsal and it was playing.... alright, but something was missing. Frankly, I though it was me and how I was playing. Then my rod starting catching on the post, so after fiddling around with it, I just took it off. Presto, my horn sang, again. Instantly. I haven't put them back on, since.

I've tinkered around with heavy caps, heavy mouthpieces, etc. Most of the time, they don't last long on my horn. So, maybe I'm the wrong person to ask.


Everything you do to an instrument can change its response. If there's one thing I've learned in recent years about repair/rebuilding, that's it.

Benge had a soldered a-rod until UMI took over King Musical Inst. and they made it a threaded rod. I still solder them in after tightening so they do not come off.
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yourbrass
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2021 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy Cooper wrote:
It's looking like I need to locate a set of Mark Ridenour's TweeQers though I think sterling silver is overkill.


There's an easy way of doing exactly what these devices did, and much more cheaply. I made a brass patch that goes over the knuckle between the valve casings. Then a rubber band holds it in place. The results can be surprising.

My ancient Benge has a leadpipe-length patch that I made to protect the seam in the pipe. It also has a sterling patch on the 3rd valve knuckle that Mr. Becker did when he refitted the valves. It's one of the best playing Benges I've ever played, and I've played hundreds of them.

Patches can be of great benefit to the response of the instrument, but before soldering them, I experiment first.
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Andy Cooper
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2021 10:19 am    Post subject: Re: A Weighty Question Reply with quote

RETrumpet wrote:


Still a guess, but in a band setting with 50 people in front of you, you likely don't get the great reverb (even though your tone is still "better"), and now you don't have the feedback behind the bell that you are accustomed to. Which means we make unconscious changes to our approach and things get weird with the embouchure. And you no longer get the satisfaction of the new "better" sound. Seems like you may have had that part figured out...


I admit - I would like to find a way to have my cake and eat it too - reap the benefits of added weight yet keep the live room player feedback.
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Andy Cooper
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2021 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yourbrass wrote:
Andy Cooper wrote:
It's looking like I need to locate a set of Mark Ridenour's TweeQers though I think sterling silver is overkill.


There's an easy way of doing exactly what these devices did, and much more cheaply. I made a brass patch that goes over the knuckle between the valve casings. Then a rubber band holds it in place. The results can be surprising.

My ancient Benge has a leadpipe-length patch that I made to protect the seam in the pipe. It also has a sterling patch on the 3rd valve knuckle that Mr. Becker did when he refitted the valves. It's one of the best playing Benges I've ever played, and I've played hundreds of them.

Patches can be of great benefit to the response of the instrument, but before soldering them, I experiment first.


OK - perhaps it's time for a trip to my local plumbing supply store. Copper 90 and 45 degree elbows are cheap - I have a Dremel (somewhere around here) along with a bunch of those hair tie things ( for valve slides.)

"I made a brass patch that goes over the knuckle between the valve casings"

Now that's really interesting - I never thought of adding weight there.
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Crazy Finn
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2021 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yourbrass wrote:
Everything you do to an instrument can change its response. If there's one thing I've learned in recent years about repair/rebuilding, that's it.

That's true.
yourbrass wrote:
Benge had a soldered a-rod until UMI took over King Musical Inst. and they made it a threaded rod. I still solder them in after tightening so they do not come off.

Hmm.... my LA Benge is from 78 or so. I bought it used and it didn't have the rod, nuts (obviously), and was missing a post - I think from the one on the slide.

I just got the requisite parts from Allied.
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yourbrass
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2021 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy Cooper wrote:
yourbrass wrote:
Andy Cooper wrote:
It's looking like I need to locate a set of Mark Ridenour's TweeQers though I think sterling silver is overkill.


There's an easy way of doing exactly what these devices did, and much more cheaply. I made a brass patch that goes over the knuckle between the valve casings. Then a rubber band holds it in place. The results can be surprising.

My ancient Benge has a leadpipe-length patch that I made to protect the seam in the pipe. It also has a sterling patch on the 3rd valve knuckle that Mr. Becker did when he refitted the valves. It's one of the best playing Benges I've ever played, and I've played hundreds of them.

Patches can be of great benefit to the response of the instrument, but before soldering them, I experiment first.


OK - perhaps it's time for a trip to my local plumbing supply store. Copper 90 and 45 degree elbows are cheap - I have a Dremel (somewhere around here) along with a bunch of those hair tie things ( for valve slides.)

"I made a brass patch that goes over the knuckle between the valve casings"

Now that's really interesting - I never thought of adding weight there.


My advice is to get a skilled repair person to make the patch - from yellow brass stock. You pay so much for two patches for the knuckles, and you're off to the races with the aid of a couple of rubber bands. I guarantee it will be cheaper than solid silver add-ons.

My far-distance analysis of the problem with the device you mention is that they were built for a set dimension of crook, knuckle, etc. But, after measuring various Bach trumpet knuckles, I found that they vary in measurement, guaranteeing that some will fall off, as was reported by folks who used them.

It's a very good idea, I've proven it to myself. You've got some great repair people in IN, Tom Green, Mark Metzler, etc., go to them and get it done.
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Andy Cooper
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2021 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yourbrass wrote:


My advice is to get a skilled repair person to make the patch - from yellow brass stock. You pay so much for two patches for the knuckles, and you're off to the races with the aid of a couple of rubber bands. I guarantee it will be cheaper than solid silver add-ons.

I'm only interested in temporary experiments - not in soldering them in place - well - not with this trumpet.
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oliver king
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2021 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it reasonable to expect a standard weight horn with added weight to play as well as (or better than) a horn built with a thicker gauged material and a heavier bell?
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Andy Cooper
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2021 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oliver king wrote:
Is it reasonable to expect a standard weight horn with added weight to play as well as (or better than) a horn built with a thicker gauged material and a heavier bell?


Probably not. I'm simply interested in how either horn can be used in a concert band section where player feedback is a problem. A soloist or orchestral player would likely have fewer problems.
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shofarguy
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2021 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy,

In response to your question of feedback, I've noticed that different mouthpiece blank designs can give different levels of feedback. I'm thinking of a certain mouthpiece I owned that had a Bach style blank and a similar spec mouthpiece made with the standard smooth Curry blank. The Bach blank gave much better feedback. It might be the "tone ring" at the waist of the blank that does it. I can't really say.

It might also help to get your mouthpiece cut for Reeves Sleeves and adjust the receiver gap.
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