Valve oil recommendations

[Learson]

I recently picked up a new to me horn. I'm using the store brand valve oil that came with it. My first valve is a bit sticky. I'm wondering if you folks can recommend a higher quality oil that will alleviate this problem.

Thanks

[Jerry]

Ultra Pure
Monster
Hetman
Schilke
Yamaha

[JayKosta]

If the valve sticks after immediately being oiled, then there might be some type of small 'mechanical' burr / dent / bend that is forcing metal-on-metal rubbing.

If the valve works OK for a while after oiling but then starts to stick, it means the oil is not making a good film / slick on all the metal surfaces - some spots are dry.

You'll get MANY suggestions about oil choices ...

What I suggest is to first get some plain drug store MINERAL OIL - clear, unscented, no additives. Clean the valve pistons and inside the valves casings.
Put a few drop of the Mineral Oil on each piston and smear it around with a finger tip, then insert the piston in the casing. The valve should work but be very sluggish - no sticking. THEN add a drop or two of your regular valve oil to each piston until the valve action is OK. Basically what is being done is tuning the viscosity of the oil to the lubrication needs of the valves.

google -- site:trumpetherald.com valve oil recommend
will get LOTS of suggestions
_________________
Most Important Note ? - the next one !
KNOW (see) what the next note is BEFORE you have to play it.
PLAY the next note 'on time' and 'in rhythm'.
Oh ya, watch the conductor - they set what is 'on time'.

[Learson]

Awesome guys. Thanks for the replies.

[Goby]

Monster Oil Eco-Pro is the best valve oil I have ever used. It lasts longer than Hetman, feels smooth, has no odor, and has even saved a few vintage horns of mine that were plagued by sticking valves.

[mike ansberry]

Dr. Valve recommended that I use 5Star valve oil. I used to use it years (decades) ago but I thought they were out of business. Turns out I was wrong about that.
_________________
Music is a fire in your belly, fighting to get out. You'd better put a horn in the way before someone gets hurt.

[tyler.slamkowski]

[Andy Cooper]

[Goby]

[SilverSpunk]

For the pistons, whenever I'm doing the full periodic cleaning, I take a beer cup (taller than normal) and then fill the cup with hot water and dishwasher soap and fill it up just enough so that the water level does not go past the piston area so that it touches the felts/pads. After 10-30 minutes I then use hot water to carefully rinse out the pistons without getting the felts/pads wet.

[giakara]

Latromba

Regards
_________________
Lawler TL5-1A Bb 2015
Lawler TL6-1A Bb 2004
Lawler TL5-1A Bb 2003
Getzen eterna 910 C
Getzen eterna 850 cornet
Selmer Paris 3 valve picc
Yamaha 731 flugel
Carol mini pocket
Reeves/Purviance mpcs

[tyler.slamkowski]

[Monster Oil]

[shofarguy]

It's a bit funny to see certain valve oils hailed by one poster and then criticized by another. There's even one endorsement for an oil that gave me compound headaches. It doesn't really matter which one it is.

The point of this post is to describe the process I've used for determining whether a sticky valve problem is oil related or mechanically driven.

I had a similar problem develop in my 1976 Benge, back in 2008 or so. I was coming back to trumpet after about 25 years. My horn had sat in its case without much use for that time. Eventually, I cleaned it really well and got going with my comeback. The valves worked okay, then really well and finally began to give me fits! I tried various oils that had their strengths and weaknesses. I liked Blue Juice and grapefruit scented Zaja best. Eventually, not even of those worked on my sticky first valve.

I decided to try a synthetic. I was given a bottle of a certain brand. At first it seemed to clear up the sticking problem, but shortly after got very gunky and slow. Adding more oil just made things worse after a few minutes of playing, so I cleaned the horn really well and went back to Zaja. It didn't work. The valves just got slower and more sticky.

I asked Zig Kanstul if white vinegar would hurt the valves. I told him I wanted to try to remove whatever had built up on the pistons. He gave me the go-ahead. I soaked each piston in vinegar for 30 minutes and swabbed the casings several times with it. That brought my valves back to where they were prior to using the synthetic oil.

Eventually, I brought the horn to Zig and he showed me how the pistons were loose in their casings. He rebuilt all the valves and refitted the slides, which had become too loose, as well. After that. my horn had the best mechanics of any instrument I've ever held in my hands to this day.

By that time, I was using Flip Oakes brand valve oil, which he supplies to his customers. It is the best oil I've used and only has one challenge that I've come across so far. It evaporates quite quickly in the heat of the Arizona summers. I might have to oil my horn twice a day with heavy playing during those months.
_________________
Brian A. Douglas

Flip Oakes Wild Thing Bb Trumpet in copper
Flip Oakes Wild Thing Flugelhorn in copper


There is one reason that I practice: to be ready at the downbeat when the final trumpet sounds.

[chef8489]

Im an ultra pure guy for all my horns. Been using it for past 10 years. Prior to that I was using zaja blue.
_________________
Current horns
2023 Bach 19072G/43 pipe with 1st trigger
1966 H.N. White King Silver Flair
1965 H.N. White King Super 20 Sllversonic Symphony 1st trigger

[Learson]

Thanks everyone for the tips. I have some valve oil on the way. I will be sure to clean the trumpet before applying it.