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Sanding corks on mutes



 
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rhatheway
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2024 11:59 am    Post subject: Sanding corks on mutes Reply with quote

For those of us who are not professional musicians, is there really an advantage to sanding down the corks on new mutes so that it fits closer/tighter into the bell, or is it better to just use the corks that come with the mute?

I've always thought that the stock corks make the mute stick out too far from the bell, so I've always lightly sanded them to get them to fit just a bit tighter/closer to the bell (but that's just me; I like the sound the different mutes let me make with my horn). But I see lots of other people just pick them up and push them in and where they stop is where they leave it.

So thumbs up or thumbs down on sanding the cork?
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Dayton
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2024 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
For those of us who are not professional musicians, is there really an advantage to sanding down the corks on new mutes so that it fits closer/tighter into the bell, or is it better to just use the corks that come with the mute?


The main reason to sand/file your mute corks is to improve intonation and get the lowest notes (low G, low F#) to slot properly. Some mute makers use thick corks that require a lot of sanding. Worth noting that a mute with corks properly sized/sanded for a 37 bell, for example, may not be properly sized for good intonation in a 72 bell or even fit in that bell.

A secondary reason is to help the mute remain seated in the bell if the corks are too "smooth."

Worth noting that some contemporary mute makers are coming up with solutions that do not require sanding. S-Mute, Tech Tone, and Butler each have their own, no-sanding, approach.
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huntman10
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2024 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, sanding corks is a bit of a science. Here is a quick note about adjusting corks.
http://www.mutemeister.com/Corks.html

Additionally, you will find some of the horns you have told us about will require mutes that require more cork, some require less. I believe your Director has a bigger "throat" than the trumpet you have for example. The depth that a straight mutes enters the bell affects intonation as well as tones. To get a good cup muts tone, the edge of the cup needs to be a bit less than 1/2" from the bell. As I recall, you asked about adjustable cup mutes last week, so you should be aware of that issue.

Trumpets like the Olds Opera and some larger belled Martin Custom Committee, as well as larger cornet bells are true "Deep Throats" and can swallow mutes with shaved corks, even some mutes with new corks. My experiences with those models was that I needed a complete set of dedicated mutes for each of them My Eb Soprano requires special cup and Harmon mutes. Many of the older "Pea Shooter" "small boore tight wrapped" horns of the pre-WW II era have tight bells.
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rhatheway
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2024 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dayton wrote:
The main reason to sand/file your mute corks is to improve intonation and get the lowest notes (low G, low F#) to slot properly. Some mute makers use thick corks that require a lot of sanding. Worth noting that a mute with corks properly sized/sanded for a 37 bell, for example, may not be properly sized for good intonation in a 72 bell or even fit in that bell.

A secondary reason is to help the mute remain seated in the bell if the corks are too "smooth."

Worth noting that some contemporary mute makers are coming up with solutions that do not require sanding. S-Mute, Tech Tone, and Butler each have their own, no-sanding, approach.


Dayton, is the best way to check intonation while using a mute with the lowest notes?
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Richard H
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“Without music, life would be a mistake” ― Friedrich Nietzsche

1958 Conn Director 14A
1968 Getzen Eterna Severinsen
1977 Reynolds Medalist CR-58
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rhatheway
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2024 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

huntman10 wrote:
Yes, sanding corks is a bit of a science. Here is a quick note about adjusting corks.
http://www.mutemeister.com/Corks.html

Additionally, you will find some of the horns you have told us about will require mutes that require more cork, some require less. I believe your Director has a bigger "throat" than the trumpet you have for example. The depth that a straight mutes enters the bell affects intonation as well as tones. To get a good cup muts tone, the edge of the cup needs to be a bit less than 1/2" from the bell. As I recall, you asked about adjustable cup mutes last week, so you should be aware of that issue.

Trumpets like the Olds Opera and some larger belled Martin Custom Committee, as well as larger cornet bells are true "Deep Throats" and can swallow mutes with shaved corks, even some mutes with new corks. My experiences with those models was that I needed a complete set of dedicated mutes for each of them My Eb Soprano requires special cup and Harmon mutes. Many of the older "Pea Shooter" "small boore tight wrapped" horns of the pre-WW II era have tight bells.


Very interesting and that's something I hadn't considered either. But checking it just now, you're right. Just goes to prove, the more I learn, the less I realize that I know about all the different aspects of playing a trumpet. It all seems to be so easy when you first start playing, blow some air through, learn to buzz, make some sounds, learn what fingerings are, learn to play in tune, and then learn to read music. Who knew there was so much more to it?

I'm just glad I found this forum because now I'm really interested in learning!
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Richard H
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“Without music, life would be a mistake” ― Friedrich Nietzsche

1958 Conn Director 14A
1968 Getzen Eterna Severinsen
1977 Reynolds Medalist CR-58
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Andy Cooper
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2024 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes - you probably need to sand. If you have a Bach 43 bell - you will need to sand a lot.

This might be of interest to you for straight mute "tuning"

https://s-mute.com/pages/research

Cup mutes are a bit different

https://www.trumpetherald.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=164391

I'm experimenting with the H&B standard cup mute right now. It is made using their straight mute - then a cup is added. I've figured out the correct insertion depth for the straight mute to be in tune - not require moving the tuning slide.

That's also the correct insertion depth for the cup. The only problem is the cup is about 1/8 " to close to the bell to allow this. Is this a fluke or a design that worked fine for horns in the 40's? I figure this is why some players file down the H&B cup mute "points" on the scallop. Of course that changes the sound. I'm working on that.
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Nathan.Sobieralski
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2024 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey all,

I offer mutes designed in-house with my rail system integrated into the mute itself. The adjustable cup, in particular, is a very good mute and the straight portion is a great stand-alone straight mute as well, incidentally:

https://s-mute.com/products/adjustable-cup-mute

I also offer conversion sets for a selection of other mutes:

https://s-mute.com/products/quick-change-cork-adapters-for-other-mutes

In addition to the more traditional mute designs, I make a selection of completely new designs like the Salt Shaker and Pixie Cup. If you want to check out something new definitely have a look through my website.
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zaferis
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2024 5:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Filing a must. To get the best tone out of the mute it must fit properly - bells are not shaped the same. Corks are cut/shaped to be big enough to fit any possibility - too big. Cup mutes are the poster image of this, but it also includes straight mutes.
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Rhondo
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2024 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven’t filed the corks on the body of my Huber adjustable cup mute. The corks are not extra thick. They sound good to me as is with a 37 bell.

Did file the corks on the H&B cup mute. Someone said the points of the scalloped cup should be close to the bell. Not sure if that’s true, but it works for me as far as intonation on the 37. With my Ambassador, I’d need to file the corks a bit more.

I like the sound of cup mutes, they’re pretty open, and they cut volume enough to be good for practice in many situations. I’m getting the remaining options I don’t have already of the Huber adjustable cup mute, so I’ll have 2 different body shapes and 3 different shaped cups.
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rhatheway
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2024 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Other than sanding the corks on each mute, is there a "standard" recommended height for corks? Or do you really have to play with each mute and sand accordingly based on how it fits in the bell?

My guess is the latter.
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Richard H
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Working on getting my chops back...

“Without music, life would be a mistake” ― Friedrich Nietzsche

1958 Conn Director 14A
1968 Getzen Eterna Severinsen
1977 Reynolds Medalist CR-58
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Rhondo
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2024 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Josh Wagner who is really into mutes has a good video on how to do it:

[youtube] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njVplbfhAJU[/youtube]

I used 330 grit sandpaper finishing with finer 220 grit at someone’s advice and it worked well. Cut a length slightly longer than the cork and folded it over a wood paint stirring stick to keep the paper flat to sand evenly.

You might even use a mask while filing and blowing off the cork dust.

Edit: I noticed Josh filed crossways on the cork. I did it lengthwise. Ymmv.
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Dayton
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2024 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Other than sanding the corks on each mute, is there a "standard" recommended height for corks? Or do you really have to play with each mute and sand accordingly based on how it fits in the bell?


No. Mutes come in all different shapes and sizes, mute makers use different types and thickness of "corks," and bells vary considerably as well. Trim the corks at least until you get the low G and F# to slot well.
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rhatheway
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2024 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dayton wrote:

No. Mutes come in all different shapes and sizes, mute makers use different types and thickness of "corks," and bells vary considerably as well. Trim the corks at least until you get the low G and F# to slot well.


👍
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Richard H
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Working on getting my chops back...

“Without music, life would be a mistake” ― Friedrich Nietzsche

1958 Conn Director 14A
1968 Getzen Eterna Severinsen
1977 Reynolds Medalist CR-58
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rhatheway
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2024 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rhondo wrote:
Josh Wagner who is really into mutes has a good video on how to do it:

[youtube] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njVplbfhAJU[/youtube]

I used 330 grit sandpaper finishing with finer 220 grit at someone’s advice and it worked well. Cut a length slightly longer than the cork and folded it over a wood paint stirring stick to keep the paper flat to sand evenly.

You might even use a mask while filing and blowing off the cork dust.

Edit: I noticed Josh filed crossways on the cork. I did it lengthwise. Ymmv.


The key point to remember when sanding corks is to not use a lot of pressure and do it lightly. It's real easy to take off too much, especially if you use too rough a grit of sandpaper. If you do that, then you also get to learn how to remove the corks and put new ones on the mute.
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Richard H
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Working on getting my chops back...

“Without music, life would be a mistake” ― Friedrich Nietzsche

1958 Conn Director 14A
1968 Getzen Eterna Severinsen
1977 Reynolds Medalist CR-58
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mograph
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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2024 6:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rhondo wrote:
I used 330 grit sandpaper finishing with finer 220 grit at someone’s advice and it worked well.


I hate to be "that guy," but 330 is finer than 220. Higher numbers are finer, and we always progress from low to high (coarse to fine) on a wood/plastic sanding job, so it would be 220 to 330.

Personally, if I wanted to restore the "tooth" to an old, smooth cork, I've found that a #10 file cleaner, basically a wire brush, lightly rubbed on a mute cork restores its "tooth." And I'd go across the direction of insertion, not along it. Just a few swipes does it. Mine is ancient, older than me, probably.



(I used to build model kits, and Dad was a tool-and die man and home carpenter.)
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